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Freelander 1 TD4 Black smoke puff and P1e30 SOLVED

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by andyfreelandy, Sep 18, 2021.

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  1. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Was pulling a couple of horses the other day, they were in a trailer!! On hills, probs because the trailer was behind, I noticed a puff of black smoke but only when pulling hard.

    Today checked all the obvious, hoses, sounds of leaks, tight clips, vacuum hoses. Also checked live data which looked fine but a P1e30 had been stored, showing as 'boost system performance deviation'.

    I've not seen the engine light on and the fault cleared OK.
    With the car not moving smart pumps on the go pedal give a black smoke ring.
    Vehicle has done 180k miles.

    Anyone had similar please? Doesn't seem to affect the way it drives.
    Haven't been under to check turbo actuator yet. That's next. Thanks.
     
  2. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Could the code be historic? maybe after a boost pipe has split previously?

    It's not uncommon to see a small amount of black smoke under sustained full power operation.
     
  3. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    So it's not well, the TD4 that is. Been out for a long run today power is down, not massively, black smoke on hills when not really pushing it and worst of all the brake servo seems to be intermittantly failing to provide assistance which is a bit alarming!!

    So defo looks like a vacu problem. All pipes checked again and not that old.
    How to test? Does anyone know what figure of suck should be in the line from the vac pump?
    I'm thinking vac pump or leak in servo causing partial failure of the boost system. Fault code has reappeared fter clearing OK.
     
  4. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Test the servo first, as a split diaphragm will reduce the vacuum available for the whole vac circuit.

    From memory, the vacuum pump should be able to pull a vacuum greater than 25hg, which is comparable to a petrol engine at idle.
     
  5. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks John, what is simplest way to test diaphragm in servo? Could insert gauge and clamp all other pipes to see if vacuum is maintained. Could apply an air pump and see if it holds pressure?
     
  6. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Stop the engine and wait 10 minutes. Then without starting, press the brake pedal and see if there is assistance, and an audible hiss. If so release and repeat, the pedal shouldn't go down so far next time, and even less a 3rd time, which proves the diaphragm is air tight, and the transfer valve is working.
    If the pedal is hard after the 10 minutes, then there's a vacuum leak in the diaphragm, transfer valve or the vacuum pipes and the non-return valve in the servo has failed.
     
  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    A vacuum gauge T'd into the vac lines with show if there's an issue, as you'll see less than 25hg on the gauge.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2021
  8. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Passes pedal test after an hour and so it's pipe check (again) and vacuum gauge check. Suspecting vacuum pump as the repeated brake and hardening pedal has been there for a while.
    Thanks for the pointers.
     
  9. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    So started out getting a reference. Connected vacuum gauge to output of vacuum pump. Getting 26 to 27 HG. Good.

    Reconnected all pipework with vacuum gauge 'tee' d into the system. Getting 5 HG.
    So then all I had to do was disconnect each circuit in turn and blank it to see if the disconnected circuit was the one at fault.
    Lack of power being the main symptom I disconnected the turbo servo solenoid and blanked the connection. Back to 27 HG.

    At this point I thought I had a leaky servo solenoid but just to check I removed the long vacuum pipe across the engine and blanked the end. Reconnecting the hose showed 5HG. This was a new pipe a year or so ago.
    Replaced the pipe and problem solved.
    Pipe looked new and undamaged.

    Just to conclude, I blanked one end of the suspect pipe, fitted a foot pump and put the hose in water.

    See attached photo. The pipe has failed internally.
    Seeing as I did the engine in the same pipe, I shall look for a better replacement and renew them all. I have fitted the tatty 20 Yr old pipe from my old engine, it doesn't leak!!!

    So interesting, cheap to fix and another annoying example of how no one can make rubber last anymore!!

    Thanks to all for the input, a gauge is invaluable and cost a few pounds. IMG_20210924_160202.jpg
     
  10. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad it was a simple one Andy, and tested using good old fashioned test equipment, which makes a pleasant change in this computer diagnostic age.
     
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