Freelander 1 TD4 Auto - Use EGR Solenoid has Turbo Boost Solenoid

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rntip

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Hello,

I have a 2003 Freelander TD4 Automatic with EGR Valve off.

The Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve is faulty and someone told me that I can use the EGR Solenoid (that is unsed at the moment).

Can I make this change? I realized that the Turbo Solenoit has 3 pipe connections but the EGR Solenoid has only 2 (the third one appear to be with a square cover).
 
You can't fit 3 pipes on to a 2 pipe solenoid.;)

The boost control solenoid has an air bleed pipe (where the filter is), which allows it to return to the at rest position quickly. This allows the solenoid to pulsed by the EDC, keeping the turbo vanes in any position between full boost and no boost as needed.

The EGR solenoid has no bleed pipe, so is slower to respond, as it only needs to be either fully open to activate EGR, or fully closed, to deactivate EGR.
 
Nodge68 said:
You can't fit 3 pipes on to a 2 pipe solenoid.;)

The boost control solenoid has an air bleed pipe (where the filter is), which allows it to return to the at rest position quickly. This allows the solenoid to pulsed by the EDC, keeping the turbo vanes in any position between full boost and no boost as needed.

The EGR solenoid has no bleed pipe, so is slower to respond, as it only needs to be either fully open to activate EGR, or fully closed, to deactivate EGR.
Click to expand...

Thanks

Can you tell me were the air bleed pipe ends. When disconnected (from the solenoid side) this 3rd pipe seems to be obstructed!
 
rntip said:
Thanks

Can you tell me were the air bleed pipe ends. When disconnected (from the solenoid side) this 3rd pipe seems to be obstructed!
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20210217-130920_Samsung Internet.jpg

1. Filter.
2. Vacuum feed from main rail.
3. Vacuum from solenoid to turbo.
4. Vacuum feed from accumulator to solenoid.
5. Vacuum accumulator.
6. Fresh air in, from filter to solenoid.
7. Vacuum control solenoid.
8. Solenoid support bracket.


Hope this helps.
 
Nodge68 said:
View attachment 231086
1. Filter.
2. Vacuum feed from main rail.
3. Vacuum from solenoid to turbo.
4. Vacuum feed from accumulator to solenoid.
5. Vacuum accumulator.
6. Fresh air in, from filter to solenoid.
7. Vacuum control solenoid.
8. Solenoid support bracket.


Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


Thx for the quick answer. It helps but.... In my Free the pipe number 6 goes up with a rubber tube than comes down again throu a steel tube that connects in the engine block in the lower end (near the solenoid). There is no filter!!!!!
 

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Number 6 pipe shouldn't be connected to the metal pipe. The metal pipe is a breather pipe and should be open as well.
Just take it off the metal pipe and fit a plastic fuel filter on the end of the rubber pipe. Common mistake to connect the 2 together
 
rntip said:
Thx for the quick answer. It helps but.... In my Free the pipe number 6 goes up with a rubber tube than comes down again throu a steel tube that connects in the engine block in the lower end (near the solenoid). There is no filter!!!!!
Click to expand...
No no no. That's not correct, as said by J_D below.
J_D said:
Number 6 pipe shouldn't be connected to the metal pipe. The metal pipe is a breather pipe and should be open as well.
Just take it off the metal pipe and fit a plastic fuel filter on the end of the rubber pipe. Common mistake to connect the 2 together
Click to expand...
I'll add, the boost won't work properly, if the vent pipe is connected to the IRD breather. ;)
 
rntip said:
Thanks to you all. This weekend I will correct this madness!!!!
Click to expand...

Get yourself a universal in line fuel filter, and pipe the boost control solenoid exactly as the diagram, replacing any damaged, cracked or frayed pipes at the same time.
The filter just hangs down the back of the engine, on a double clip which is clipped to the bent vent pipe, it's currently connected to. It just needs to hang open end down, so water can't get into the filter. ;)
 
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