TD4 Auto MPG?

I need a bit of advice as this is now getting on my tit. The vehicle in question is a 2002 52 plate done 78k with history. Bought with warranty but only has 3 weeks left on warranty and it's not a happy bunny. To date it's had replacement fuel filter assembly (recall?), Turbo, Turbo modulator, EGR-intercooler clean and new hoses, New MAF, ECU reinstall of software updated (engine and gearbox), leak off tests, fuel pressure tests and just about everything else. Problem is it only returns 17.8MPG and drives awful. No low down torque and poor acceleration. I have to speak to the garage tomorrow and just need a bit of a pointer as to what is likely. I have previously had a 200tdi disco (27MPG) and a 2.8 shogun (24MPG) doing the same job and this is worse that the P38 it replaced at 20.5MPG.
Thanks.
Rob.

See if it drives better with the Maf disconnected.....

I ditched my TD4HSE on a 54 plate because partly it was too small and partly because the MPG sucked all the time. Best I got on a long trip was 26mpg (best ever!)

I now have an 04 plate TD5 Defender CSW, and I regularly get 30+mpg, best to date 33.8 MPG.

The Defender has the same tax and insurance as the Freelander, and I like it a whole lot better!! The hippo had new suspenders, new bearings, new this and that and still had problems when I got rid.

According to Parkers the TD4 auto gets a combined mpg of 32mpg (compared with 37mpg for the manual) so I guess your aim would be around 30mpg assuming you don't do a lot of town/city driving.

Thanks for the responses upto now. It averages about 90 to 100 miles a week mixed but this is getting worse MPG than a P38 DHSE which I borrowed. In fact it's worse than the V6 Hippo that I got lent whilst it was in. The biggest laugh was it went back for a transmission leak and poor economy at 20MPG. The transmission is now dry but the economy is appalling.:doh:

I've got a HSE Auto and get around 30 mpg regulary. I drive to work 4 times a week throught town and country lanes.

I have the EGR bypassed, Synergy 1 box set at 3, regular oil and filters changed about every 6 months. I have no issues what so ever at the acceleration or speed of the vehicle.

Last year all engine and gearbox fluids changed at 120,000 miles to keep her sweet too.

So something is definitely wrong with yours and I'd ask does yr mechanic know what he is dealing with?

hi, i`m having a few minor running probs with mine but i get just over 30 mpg with plenty of weight in the back on a 50 mile round trip to work. on a run with the car empty i got 38 mpg . you must have a problem ! maf ?

Spoke to the garage today and they are going to take it in for further work in the new year. It gives me litttle confidence when they initially said it might just need to do some longer runs. My approach was simple. The V6 Freelander you loaned me did better mpg so either something is wrong or maybe I just need to take a refund. Wait and see.

well if you ain't payin try to get them to get the injectors refurbished......

Am I being realistic expecting about 26 just local runs and about 35 on a run. It's currently averaging 18. Previously it pulled off like a rocket but would only average 20. They have had it in 3 times and now it doesn't like junctions. it doesn't like overtaking and its flat out at 80mph.

Rob Edge said:

and now it doesn't like junctions.

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Chaser said:

See if it drives better with the Maf disconnected.....

Click to expand...

Mid twenties locally seems reasonable if your not rushing around.

Does the garage know what it's doing? It needs an experts eye and ear on it, not guesswork....crankcase fillter changed? You don't mention it and it can have a seriously negative effect. (Or maybe that's what you mean by fuel filter??).Turbo filter (hangs on tube at back of engine) may need changing too if they don't know their stuff, which is what it sounds like. Good luck!
Check out the stickies too. Worth reading and re-reading. Very helpful

if you put it on full lock and try to turn, does it resist and have your tyres been worn unevenly on the rear?

Chaser said:

Mid twenties locally seems reasonable if your not rushing around.

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Thanks for confirming my sanity.

dazjam said:

Does the garage know what it's doing? It needs an experts eye and ear on it, not guesswork....crankcase fillter changed? You don't mention it and it can have a seriously negative effect. (Or maybe that's what you mean by fuel filter??).Turbo filter (hangs on tube at back of engine) may need changing too if they don't know their stuff, which is what it sounds like. Good luck!
Check out the stickies too. Worth reading and re-reading. Very helpful

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Sounds interesting. Where is it? I don't think that one has been done but would that cause poor mpg?

dexbethename said:

if you put it on full lock and try to turn, does it resist and have your tyres been worn unevenly on the rear?

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No.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-crankcase-filter-62361.html



Have a proper read up of the stickies and big threads, it really helped me get a quick overview. Also there's a search function on here!!

Chaser said:

Mid twenties locally seems reasonable if your not rushing around.

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My thoughts too. Going to try maff off.

dexbethename said:

if you put it on full lock and try to turn, does it resist and have your tyres been worn unevenly on the rear?

Click to expand...

Now that you mention it it does seem a bit iffy at full lock. Noticed a bit of spin on the ice in the front wheel and a bit of a judder.

Just to update this. The Garage have diagnosed turbo modulator not working. Would this cause poor performance and 17.5 mpg?

Rob Edge said:

Just to update this. The Garage have diagnosed turbo modulator not working. Would this cause poor performance and 17.5 mpg?

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Guess it could

As a guide, and as posted on other MPG threads:-

my TD4 Auto gets 28mpg around town and is good for 40mpg on a run
... in fact, with great care and keeping to 60, I have achieved 45mpg

On average I get 30mpg

Rob Edge said:

Just to update this. The Garage have diagnosed turbo modulator not working. Would this cause poor performance and 17.5 mpg?

Click to expand...

Thought you had already changed the solenoid/modulator and the turbo?

If that's what the diagnosis is you would think they must have seen something or read a fault code.

You can actually watch the the turbo actuator move from under the wheelarch if you get someone to floor the throttle. It it moves it would give an indication that the solenoid/modulator is working and the turbo is free.

From experience if the turbo vanes were not operating it would overboost as revs rise and give a warning light and fault code.

In normal operation you should feel the boost from around 2000rpm

Mark2 said:

Guess it could

As a guide, and as posted on other MPG threads:-

my TD4 Auto gets 28mpg around town and is good for 40mpg on a run
... in fact, with great care and keeping to 60, I have achieved 45mpg

On average I get 30mpg

Click to expand...

Chaser said:

Thought you had already changed the solenoid/modulator and the turbo?

If that's what the diagnosis is you would think they must have seen something or read a fault code.

You can actually watch the the turbo actuator move from under the wheelarch if you get someone to floor the throttle. It it moves it would give an indication that the solenoid/modulator is working and the turbo is free.

From experience if the turbo vanes were not operating it would overboost as revs rise and give a warning light and fault code.

In normal operation you should feel the boost from around 2000rpm

Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies lads. The work to date by the garage is as follows.
New turbo complete with intercooler pipes.
Clean EGR and refit.
Fit new MAFF.
Fit new turbo modulator.
Remap engine ECU.
Remap gearbox ECU
A month has gone by as the wife has been in hospital but it has just gone back due to continued problems. Poor MPG and low power/grunt. Thay have now fitted a new turbo modulator again as alledgedly the first was faulty. They are currently road testing for a few days to calculate MPG. I have also asked for the VCU to be checked just in case that is part of the problem.