TD4 and self-priming??

Just to pop a question: Just changed wheel arch fuel pump and filter, emptied sedimenter, put them back and start priming procedure: accelerator to the floor and crank 10 sec burst, 5 sec break. Nothing. checked pump, HOT as F***. No leaks, nothing. Any ideas? Will I burn this pump eventually if I will continue "self-priming" ??

...and what a heck is this electric plug for??? this is not connected anywhere...

I had the same problem when I fitted a new wheel arch pump. Pump buzzed but wasobviously not pumping. Gave the tank pump/sender a thump with the side of my hand and hey presto off it went. I put it down to a bubble/air lock in the suction pipe which is fairly long and the fuel has to be lifted.

Are all the hose connections fitted properly and the sedimenter closed? Just asking as it isnt easy to see down there.

Don't continue to run your pump without fuel passing. How old is the car? Could the suction strainer be blocked. A lazy way to "clean" it is to take off the tank connection and blow down it with air hose / foot pump. Of course this only disperses the dirt back into the tank. You could also "prime" the pump by filling the pipe from the tank end using an oil gun to prevent messy spilling.

Good luck

Hi Vic

sedimenter: closed, all pipework checked.

I know from my experience (central heating/ventilation) that an air lock can be a pain. Tomorrow i will search for diesel primer pump or something what can sucks diesel. I had an idea about using it at the front end via connection to the low pressure sensor just to push diesel until it will come out at the front, I think it will be enough, but I'm not sure if that pump will not be a blockage itself (especially not running)...
I really wish that TD4 has this small pump lever somewhere under the bonnet. It would be a much easer life.

PS I'd hanged my pump after changing fuel filter. One day going in slow traffic (that was before this whole changing program), my car suddenly start chocking and stall. I couldn't restart so park (luckily) on the side road and go my friend to give me a pull. 3 hours later I went back and it start like nothing happened. Prior to whole story I'd saw my idle being 1 millimetre up, then 1 millimetre down. erratic. Only when hot. After changing fuel filter reaction was better but eventually almost stall again on the way to work. I had to keep higher revs to prevent stall again. This time didn't stall, but after deciding to get back home while is still running, died at my home place. 2 Hr later, start with no problems. Strange.

PS2 2003 year, '03 and do you know anything about this strange plug that is connected nowhere.

Hiya,

I changed my filter and drained the sedimentor a couple of weeks back. All I did afterwards was key on but not start, waited for the pump to finish buzzing away, and then turned the engine over and it fired first time.

Re- the spare connector, I think it's for the additional pump that is fitted there if you have a fuel burning heater.

Cheers.

Kungfu0210 said:

Hiya,

I changed my filter and drained the sedimentor a couple of weeks back. All I did afterwards was key on but not start, waited for the pump to finish buzzing away, and then turned the engine over and it fired first time.

Re- the spare connector, I think it's for the additional pump that is fitted there if you have a fuel burning heater.

Cheers.

Click to expand...

Possible, but don't forget my pump is empty, so is difficult to pull diesel, as Vic suggested: air lock.I know that I can't run empty as pump is taking diesel as lubrication and heat displacement. I have to find a way to suck diesel behind the pump or even filter, that's why I'm wondering if the trick with LP sensor will work... Thanks for info about that plug, you may be right. I remember some article about Freelanders and my model is model after they stop using fuel burners, only in specific models. My model is Serengeti or something like that. Worst.... I have whole diagnostic kit for a landrovers, range rovers, discos, APART OF MY F***g MODEL. UK Only, so I have to wait until they will include it....:doh:

Get access to the top of the fuel tank from under the rear seats, disconnect the fuel pipe to the pump and try filling the pump with diesel from there, like Vic said.

Having change many filters and quite a few pumps, the one thought is are you 100% sure that you have got all the conectors fully home as like stated they are just crank and go. I would remove pump and filter from wheel arch again recheck and make sure.

booboodag: as I've said before: pump is getting hot, it means you have electric supply OK, but you do not pull anything as there is air lock. I've looked into this connector and trust me there is no way to swap polarity nor to fit improperly, connectors have locks on them.

I'm going to find any sort of diesel primer and I will whacked some diesel through top of the tank. We will see what will come out of it. Diesel? ;-)))

Thank guys.


PS.
Tested on Ohmmeter and old and new one have identical 1.6 Ohm.

New Update:

After long fight with whole assembly what I found? New pump is locked inside and not running. That's why whole thing was hot. From my experience even if running dry, temp will rise after few minutes not seconds, so something in it was bothering me along. Hehe.. I've got nice "primmer": ex oil suction pump ;-))) working perfect, just unplug pipe on end of the fuel filter, connect to it and will take good few pumps before diesel will run through.

Tomorrow I will be back at GSF Parts and ask for propa Pierburg not s***t from china.

Right, New pump fitted and running (Bosh this time) and unfortunately my car start stalling on idle again after 30 minutes of running. £130 and counting.