Freelander 2 (LR2) TD4, 2010, problems, are they common??

Hi all, not often I venture in here, but a friend who knows I'm into Landrovers, and therefore a FOAK (Font Of All Knowledge) has asked me to look into his Freelander2 that has an issue.

As above it's a 2010 TD4, manual gearbox, about 70,000 miles on the clock. When driving it's usually fine, especially when it's cold, but as it warms up it starts to get jumpy .. For instance, coming to a roundabout it coughs and splutters a little on over-run, then when setting off it won't pull away for a second or two, then gets full power and jerks away with full power, whatever the throttle position!

It's been backwards and forwards to Landrover main stealers, but although they acknowledge a fault they can't fix it, during the last six months. They've had it about a year and initially were told it's their driving .. it isn't, I drove it without them telling me what was wrong and it did it to me .. scary! Mate's been told the Evoque has a similar issue, but I dunno anything about either vehicle.

Mate and his wife also say that Landrover do seem to cure for the first week or two they get it back, but it always reverts to the jerky driving.

My guess is software glitch or something .. but over to you lot please, any thoughts, and idea if it's a common issue?

This has been discussed heavily over on Freel2.com

A large number if users have what is being referred to as hesitation and judder. I have had such symptoms on my late 2010 facelift and am about to get the throttle body replaced under extended warranty.

Simple fixes have been either replacing throttle body as it has become sticky, or changing the fuel filter. If neither of those work you are in the same boat as many which is that LR have no fix for this known issue.

Thanks, I'll pass the info on! Doesn't sound good though ...

Paul D said:

Thanks, I'll pass the info on! Doesn't sound good though ...

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For me I just don't try and nip out into a fast bit of a roundabout as the car may crawl out. Can be a little scary.

Will be interesting to see if the throttle body replacement does the trick. Hope so! But it does seem to be a 2010/2011 issue.

Software doesn't work when it gets back from the dealers, and then start going wrong again... Unless if from Volkswagen that is!

This sounds a bit like hunting. My D1V8 had a similarish issue. The Landie garages here all wanted to do quite major intervention on the car to clear oil ways and stuff. My bro, who works for JLR visited and looked at it and identified it as the airflow meter. In fact it wasn't the meter itself, just the wiring connector. When it started giving jip, I'd just wiggle the connector and it would calm down. So might be the meter, the connector or the loom if that's the issue.

GrumpyGel said:

Software doesn't work when it gets back from the dealers, and then start going wrong again... Unless if from Volkswagen that is!

This sounds a bit like hunting. My D1V8 had a similarish issue. The Landie garages here all wanted to do quite major intervention on the car to clear oil ways and stuff. My bro, who works for JLR visited and looked at it and identified it as the airflow meter. In fact it wasn't the meter itself, just the wiring connector. When it started giving jip, I'd just wiggle the connector and it would calm down. So might be the meter, the connector or the loom if that's the issue.

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If that was the case, you'd be a hero over on Freel2.com

Try a pm to @TD4, he's probably the most conversant on here on fl2's

chuckalicious said:

If that was the case, you'd be a hero over on Freel2.com

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I wouldn't be the hero, it'd be my brother. He has worked for them for 25 years. I think his first 'task' there was designing the center badge for the steering wheel of the company's new car - the "Discovery"! He's gone on to being responsible for a team of 250 in prototype vehicles, spent 2 years setting up the factory in China and more recently being responsible for some aspects of the D Sport production setup. So he should know what he's talking about.

It was quite funny with my motor. He was visiting us here in NZ with his family and was going to use the car to travel round the South Island a bit, so I was rather devastated when it started going wrong just before he got here. I'd already taken it to my normal place and they were into stripping the engine and I wasn't having that. After my brother got here, we both took it to another place and they said the same thing... this time both of us thought they were having an expensive punt. We got the car back home and lifted the bonnet and we both leaned over the engine. He looked at it and pointed his finger running along some sort of sequence through the engine components and stopped at the air flow meter. Could be that he said and bugger me if he weren't right!

He's obviously very much white collar these days at JLR, but it does give you some satisfaction that the white collar guys know how a car works!

I would add that in the 17 years I've been running Land Rovers, NOT ONCE, NOT ONCE has he ever been able to get me a freebe or discounted part when something's gone wrong. Nearest I get is a LR watch or hoodie at Christmas. Fecking useless.

I would have to agree with the above, those heart stopping stutters pulling from a round about or trying to take over are most likely caused by the MAF sensor, try a test unplug it and see if it runs ok then, if so you have your answer.

This happens on the R75 as well some run the car with the MAF unplugged you use more fuel but not that much, I prefer to replace MAF, also check intercooler hoses ?

Arctic2 said:

I would have to agree with the above, those heart stopping stutters pulling from a round about or trying to take over are most likely caused by the MAF sensor, try a test unplug it and see if it runs ok then, if so you have your answer.

This happens on the R75 as well some run the car with the MAF unplugged you use more fuel but not that much, I prefer to replace MAF, also check intercooler hoses ?

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I have suggested removing the MAF as suggested here http://www.nikrivers.com/freelander-td4/maf-sensor/ on the Freel2 forum to see if anyone is willing to try it and see what happens. Can't hurt.

Ideally you, or you friend needs to find someone with a Bluetooth IID tool and do a full log of all engine sensors while driving the car. This way you can refer back to the data in the comfort of home, looking for odd sensor readings.
I had a strange fault on my D3 that I was able to trace to a failing oil temperature sensor. It only failed in a narrow temperature range, giving the symptoms randomly.
So for stuff like this, the IID BT tool is invaluable.

chuckalicious said:

I have suggested removing the MAF as suggested here http://www.nikrivers.com/freelander-td4/maf-sensor/ on the Freel2 forum to see if anyone is willing to try it and see what happens. Can't hurt.

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Unplug the MAF do not remove it, good luck