Freelander 1 TD4 05 plate - Drivers side window/switch

G

Glosterlad

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40

• Nov 13, 2018

• #1

Hi guys,
Just a quick question and apologies if answered elsewhere (but I have looked high and low even on youtube)
TD4 05 plate Drivers side window not opening and there is no sound at all when pressing switch up or down. All other windows ok. I have checked F8 25Amp fuse and this is ok. I hope this was the correct fuse to check
Previously the window would not open/close unless I closed door 'hard' but not sure of significance of this.
Could the switch be dirty ? Contacts need cleaning perhaps.
If it is the switch then I am unclear as how to access/remove/replace.
I can remove the door handle cover and two screws revealed so I guess removing these would then allow me to remove the whole door panel which is held by poppers ? But do I need to do all this to access the switch?
I had hoped to find a vid somewhere that could run through the process and if anyone can point me in that direction that would be very much appreciated. Else I am happy to follow instructions.
I appreciate that there may be a problem with the window regulator/motor or something else but I am not particularly techy ok. Perhaps just buying a new master switch from ebay would do the trick ? But if I have to buy a whole regulator/motor assembly I can live with that also. Just unsure what the likely fault is ok.
Again, apologies if the answer is out there on this forum but I have looked.
And many thanks again to those peeps who have helped me out in the past particularly TD4VAN and HIPPO. I bought my beloved hippo 8 years ago with 49k on the clock and it is nearing 120k. My goal is to get her to 200k and so far I have not had any serious issues. Touch wood !
Cheers
John in Gloucester

 

Nodge68

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32,954

Location

Cornwall

• Nov 13, 2018

• #2

In my experience the window cables are far more likely to fail than the switch.
The driver's widow uses a control unit to drive the window, so that could be the issue, if the cables are ok.

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Nov 13, 2018

• #3

Nodge68 said:

In my experience the window cables are far more likely to fail than the switch.
The driver's widow uses a control unit to drive the window, so that could be the issue, if the cables are ok.

Click to expand...

Cheers Nodge. Fully appreciate that the cable is often the issue. But I am firstly seeking advice on how to access/remove/clean or replace switch if indeed that is the problem of course.
Thanks
John

 

Last edited: Nov 13, 2018

Nodge68

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• Nov 13, 2018

• #4

Glosterlad said:

But I am firstly seeking advice on how to access/remove/clean or replace switch if indeed

Click to expand...

It just clips in to the arm rest. There're a loose fit anyway, so you can see where to pull it out.

I'd be surprised if it was the switch though as there's actually 2 down switches and 1 up switch, so that chances of all 3 going wrong is unlikely.

Have you checked to see if the battery voltage drops when the switch is actuated? If it does then the switches are fine.

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Nov 23, 2018

• #5

Thanks Nodge and sorry for delay in reply.
Tried to approach this with logic... (and this from someone who has little mechanical or electronics knowledge!)
So I have purchased a Saber voltage tester from the Range for the princely sum of £8.99 !

Never used one before so its going to be trial and error.
Firstly, I managed to unclip the door switch master panel and then the door card

So just to confirm again that all switches are operating the passenger side window and the rear windows. It is just the driver side switch has no sound at all when depressing up or down buttons.
I have separated the bottom and top sections of the switch

And observing the wiring going into the back it appears that it is the blue junction that contains the wiring for the drivers side switch

On one side there are 4 various orange/gray and orange/red wires.

And on the other side 3 wires.. blue, red and black

And this is where I need help on testing if there is current coming to this blue junction (switch).
I assume its a case of firstly turning on the ignition and then using the voltage tester by inserting the red probe onto the red/live wire and the black probe onto one of the other wires ?.
I did say I have little electronics knowledge.. but prepared to learn.
So which other coloured wire should the black probe go onto ? The black one sounds obvious but I have not tried any yet.. my fear of electrics is putting a block on this even though I am sure the voltage is low.
If there is voltage coming to this junction/switch then surely the switch does not need changing ? And its then look at the motor and/or regulator ? As I said before it is odd that on a few occasions when I shut the door quite hard the window did go up and down. But only once on each occasion.
This numpty would take any advice on board ok
Hope pics all showing up
Thanks in advance
John
p.s. I have put my hand into and around the motor/regulator area and nothing appears to be loose or separated

 

Last edited: Nov 23, 2018

Nodge68

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Location

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• Nov 23, 2018

• #6

I don't have a wiring diagram off hand, but I can guess some of the colours.
The window switch contains the "one shot" down function controller.
I'm sure thick Blue/Green and Red go to the window motor. These would be swapped over by the controller to drive the window up or down.
So you can test your switch at this point. Just set the meter to the 20V DC range and poke the probes in to the back of the Blue/Green and red sockets. When the ignition is on, you should see the voltage begin applied to the motor wires. It could have just the voltage or it might well have a - symbol then the voltage.
Anything over 11.5 Volts will show the problem is with the motor. No voltage or low voltage here shows the problem is elsewhere.

 

G

Glosterlad

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40

• Nov 23, 2018

• #7

Thanks Nodge,
Will give it a go tomorrow and let you know. And thanks again.
John

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Nov 24, 2018

• #8

Hi again Nodge,
Tested on the Blue/Green and red sockets and no voltage at all. So I guess this suggests I either need a new master switch ? (but all other doors work from this switch). Could the wiring have been 'pulled' at the point where all the wiring comes in just behind door hinge into the door frame from the front as indicated in this pic. Heck, I wouldn't know where to start if the problem was there. Can the wiring be checked further back with the voltage tester perhaps. Thanks again. John

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Dec 11, 2018

• #9

The ongoing saga of my driver side window continues....
In order to rule out the master switch being the problem... I purchased a used one off ebay for the princely sum of £34.99.
On arrival I switched them over and... as with the original switch all other windows work other than ... the drivers side. So this surely tells me that the switch was ok in the first place. (the purchased one is back on ebay if anyone interested ! ).
So what next.. well I managed to remove a two wire connector that connects to the motor (he thinks)

and put the voltage tester on this. No voltage at all. So what to check next ?
Just to say again that I have checked all fuses and they are ok. There is no sound at all when pressing the up/down switch for the window.
There are no obvious breaks that I can see around the motor/regulator. Should I concentrate my efforts now on the wiring between the pillar and door now or am I am missing something blatantly obvious. As I said before.. the window has gone up and down on 2 occasions when the door was shut hard but that was a while back. Is there a sensor around the door lock mechanism that could be at fault ? After all the door has to be shut for the window to be operated. Would welcome any advice but I feel a trip to the garage will have to be on the cards now. Thanks John in Gloucester

 

Last edited: Dec 11, 2018

T

td4van

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Gloucestershire

• Dec 11, 2018

• #10

Hi John - have you checked for voltage on the motor connector when you have ignition on and are operating the window switch up/down?

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Dec 11, 2018

• #11

td4van said:

Hi John - have you checked for voltage on the motor connector when you have ignition on and are operating the window switch up/down?

Click to expand...

aaaah... I did not try it while operating the switch.. I will try that tomorrow B. and many thanks for response !

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Dec 12, 2018

• #12

Hi B. Ignition on, door shut, meter probes on motor connector. Still no voltage reading when pressing switch up/down o.k. John

 

T

td4van

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Gloucestershire

• Dec 12, 2018

• #13

Hi John where did you have the black lead connected to on the multimeter?

 

G

Glosterlad

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Posts

40

• Dec 12, 2018

• #14

Hi B. , I had the black lead/probe of meter on the blue and the red lead/probe on the red. Was that correct ?
Thanks, John

 

T

td4van

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Gloucestershire

• Dec 12, 2018

• #15

Ho John no you need to have the black to earth on the car and use the red probe on the blue / red

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Dec 12, 2018

• #16

Thanks B. I have used the metal door frame as earth and used the red probe on both blue and red of the connector. Still no reading ok.
It was done in the dark so I will double check tomorrow but assuming I did it correctly what is this telling me and what would you now suggest please?
Thanks again, John

 

T

td4van

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Location

Gloucestershire

• Dec 12, 2018

• #17

Without looking at the wiring diagram I suspect the wires going into the door.

You’ll have to try and get to the connector between the door and the car to check the feed there. Check for voltage at the switch pack to verify if your earth is good before trying the motor connector again with the switch operated

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Dec 12, 2018

• #18

Many thanks again B. will follow your advice and I will let you know how I get on re other connector ok.
Cheers, John

 

G

Glosterlad

Member

Posts

40

• Dec 13, 2018

• #19

Hi B. Have rechecked the switch to motor and still no reading. You have to remember that I am a numpty at this ok. To be honest I am not sure what you mean by "Check the voltage at the switch pack to verify if your earth is good".
I am not sure which wires go to which switches on the switch pack but assumed, from nodge68 post, that it was the 'blue coloured switch' to check (for the driver side window) but.. where ever I put the meter probes on this switch (all wires checked) I never had a reading but.. I did have a reading on the other switches going into this switch pack. And staying with the 'blue coloured switch' should I also be doing black probe to earth and red probe to the various coloured wires going to this. Or is that not necessary. The 'earth' test is a bit lost on me ok Many thanks again, John p.s. Is there another switch that I need to hunt down for all the wiring going between door and car then ?

 

Last edited: Dec 13, 2018

T

td4van

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Gloucestershire

• Dec 16, 2018

• #20

The grey and orange wire in the grey connector is the main feed to the switch pack - put the black lead to a good earth point - check strap bolt is a good place to use and the red probe into the grey and orange wire - you should have battery voltage here (c.12v) with ignition on

Once you have confirmed battery voltage here - keep the black lead on the good earth point and move to the blue and red wires on the motor switch - operate the switch with the ignition on and check whether you get battery voltage on both when pressing the switch up and down

Good luck