TD snorkel (not safari)

just a quick one,
just recieved my new snorkel from paddoks, its not a safari, went to fit the bloomin thing the other day but couldn't work the first part out!!

you take the air grill off the side of the wing and remove the possi screws, but do you then fit the foam gasket thinge and then the theaded clips for the new allon key bolts or do you put the clips on and fit the gasket to the back of the oulet pipe what has to be bolted down?

any ideas?
stables.

also when running the cable to the lights on the light bar on the front above the windscreen which is the best way to go ?

whatever way round makes the best seal! i cant comment cos i dont have one of them, but make sure its a good seal.

lightbar on roof... i went in between the rubber door seal on the pass side, down the pillar, behind the dash and across.

G

cheers mate, will have to have another look tomorow.




hopefully some one has fitted one of these snorkels and can tell me how they fitted theres.

clips, gasket, snorkel, screws.

Better still, clips, autosilicone sealant, snorkel, screws, wipe down.

From memory though, their kit is about 70 quid and is only the snorkel gasket, clips and screws. If it's for looks thats fine, but if you're doing much wading, deep wading, the TD will need quite a bit more protection, as the air box is usually capable of leaking like a seive, through a usually missing o-ring and a perished valve at its base, held fully open by cak. And extend yer breathers. and fit wading plugs.

Still, if it's primarily for looks or a bit of dust protection, their kit'll be fine

Can't help with the Snorkel as I've got the Safari type.

On the routing question:

I've added an additional horn (Stiebel Nautilus) which requires a relay, plus two bumper mounted fog lights and plan to add roof lights later.

So, I bought corrugated tube and loom fittings from Polevolt and an IP rated box. I routed 13mm tube from the under seat box to the blank panel on top of the n/s wing. Then I bolted the box upsidedown to the blank panel. I then ran 4mm corr tube to the horn, 10mm tube to the front bumper, added another connector to the box for a 10mm tube to go up the snorkel to the roof lights and finally added an earth strap from the box to the chassis. USing a couple of stainless button bolts means the tup of the wing doesn't look too bad.

Now I have +ve feeds from the under seat compartment to horn, fogs, spots etc and a -ve connection from each to earth. I used high capacity connector strips in the box to connect all these feeds up.

This means I can disconnect any of the kit at the new junction box and just take off the short length of tube and wires from it to the kit putting a grommet in the box to maintain a seal.

The 10mm tube is just thin enough to route from the box to the back of the bonnet and up the snorkel to the roof lights using zip ties.

I've also routed all diff, gearbox vents into a single tube up the snorkel.

I also have a GPS antenna mounted on top of the snorkel with thin coax running past the door seal into the cab.

Since most of this kit needs relays to operate, I installed a separate fuse/relay box in the drivers seat box (Polevolt or Vehicle Wiring Products) with a new battery feed, main fuse, main relay (for ignition controlled circuits), 4 x accessory relays etc). This means I can supply new power supplies in the cubby box/mud tray plus a cubby installed cb etc.

At the moment I'm installing a bank of Carling switches in a Mud Pod with feeds to control the new relays etc.