tappety tap

oh oh...

My P38 is booked in to get the leaking valley & rocker gaskets replaced
next week.
Today I had to do a trip to Chichester, when I got there my engine was
clacking like a very tappety thing. After 5 hours standing I started it
and it was all quiet again, drove back to London no problem and when I
pulled up it was tapping out loud again. Noise disappears or reduces
above 1500-2000 rpm off load and is only there when its hot. Doesn't
seem to be any worse under load. Sounds like a pronounced "clack" sound
rather than a knock but it seemed to be coming from the business end
rather than the top although I could easily be wrong. Its done 99k.
Doesn't loose oil or water (apart from the valley & rocker gaskets), oil
& filter changed every 3-4k miles. Any ideas from you V8 gurus as to
what this may be, can something shagged in the bottom end make a sound
like a tappet or this this most likely a stuck/knackered lifter?

Gazza
--

1998 V8 HSE P38
1989 V8 RR Classic

If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

What grade oil do you use? I use 20w/50 oil in my RR V8.

"Gazza" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> oh oh...
>
> My P38 is booked in to get the leaking valley & rocker gaskets replaced
> next week.
> Today I had to do a trip to Chichester, when I got there my engine was
> clacking like a very tappety thing. After 5 hours standing I started it
> and it was all quiet again, drove back to London no problem and when I
> pulled up it was tapping out loud again. Noise disappears or reduces above
> 1500-2000 rpm off load and is only there when its hot. Doesn't seem to be
> any worse under load. Sounds like a pronounced "clack" sound rather than a
> knock but it seemed to be coming from the business end rather than the top
> although I could easily be wrong. Its done 99k. Doesn't loose oil or water
> (apart from the valley & rocker gaskets), oil & filter changed every 3-4k
> miles. Any ideas from you V8 gurus as to what this may be, can something
> shagged in the bottom end make a sound like a tappet or this this most
> likely a stuck/knackered lifter?
>
> Gazza
> --
>
> 1998 V8 HSE P38
> 1989 V8 RR Classic
>
> If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

Bill Payer wrote:
> What grade oil do you use? I use 20w/50 oil in my RR V8.
>
10w/40 Castrol "high mileage engines" stuff in there at the moment.

--

1998 V8 HSE P38
1989 V8 RR Classic

If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

my 3.9 did the same last week. i thought it was a liner slipping but when i
took it to a lr specialist they found the drivers side cat was buggered. it
only does it when hot.
Richard


"Gazza" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> oh oh...
>
> My P38 is booked in to get the leaking valley & rocker gaskets replaced
> next week.
> Today I had to do a trip to Chichester, when I got there my engine was
> clacking like a very tappety thing. After 5 hours standing I started it
> and it was all quiet again, drove back to London no problem and when I
> pulled up it was tapping out loud again. Noise disappears or reduces above
> 1500-2000 rpm off load and is only there when its hot. Doesn't seem to be
> any worse under load. Sounds like a pronounced "clack" sound rather than a
> knock but it seemed to be coming from the business end rather than the top
> although I could easily be wrong. Its done 99k. Doesn't loose oil or water
> (apart from the valley & rocker gaskets), oil & filter changed every 3-4k
> miles. Any ideas from you V8 gurus as to what this may be, can something
> shagged in the bottom end make a sound like a tappet or this this most
> likely a stuck/knackered lifter?
>
> Gazza
> --
>
> 1998 V8 HSE P38
> 1989 V8 RR Classic
>
> If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

On or around Fri, 05 May 2006 08:00:52 +0100, Gazza
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Bill Payer wrote:
>> What grade oil do you use? I use 20w/50 oil in my RR V8.
>>
>10w/40 Castrol "high mileage engines" stuff in there at the moment.

way to thin for hot temperatures.

decent 20W50 if you can get it... failing that 15W50, it's the 50 part
that's important.

API SG or higher (API SF is worse than SG which is worse than SH, etc.) is
good too, less sludge-forming.

What's the word on Thor engines? ISTR different oil pump and stuff, does
that mean they're happier on thin oil?
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Confidence: Before important work meetings, boost your confidence by
reading a few pages from "The Tibetan Book of the Dead"
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Fri, 05 May 2006 08:00:52 +0100, Gazza
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Bill Payer wrote:
>>> What grade oil do you use? I use 20w/50 oil in my RR V8.
>>>
>>10w/40 Castrol "high mileage engines" stuff in there at the moment.
>
> way to thin for hot temperatures.
>
> decent 20W50 if you can get it... failing that 15W50, it's the 50 part
> that's important.
>
> API SG or higher (API SF is worse than SG which is worse than SH, etc.) is
> good too, less sludge-forming.
>
> What's the word on Thor engines? ISTR different oil pump and stuff, does
> that mean they're happier on thin oil?

10W40 or 15W40, due to the tighter production tolerances and different oil
pump type, Austin. it's only the "serpentine" type engines that have the
later pump, all earlier variants (with a distributor) have the old style
pump and need the 10 or 15W50 oil, the exception being the late "interim"
3.9 engine which has a distributor, but also has the late pump and
serpentine belt.
Badger.

Badger wrote:
> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On or around Fri, 05 May 2006 08:00:52 +0100, Gazza
>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>
>>>Bill Payer wrote:
>>>
>>>>What grade oil do you use? I use 20w/50 oil in my RR V8.
>>>>
>>>
>>>10w/40 Castrol "high mileage engines" stuff in there at the moment.
>>
>>way to thin for hot temperatures.
>>
>>decent 20W50 if you can get it... failing that 15W50, it's the 50 part
>>that's important.
>>
>>API SG or higher (API SF is worse than SG which is worse than SH, etc.) is
>>good too, less sludge-forming.
>>
>>What's the word on Thor engines? ISTR different oil pump and stuff, does
>>that mean they're happier on thin oil?
>
>
> 10W40 or 15W40, due to the tighter production tolerances and different oil
> pump type, Austin. it's only the "serpentine" type engines that have the
> later pump, all earlier variants (with a distributor) have the old style
> pump and need the 10 or 15W50 oil, the exception being the late "interim"
> 3.9 engine which has a distributor, but also has the late pump and
> serpentine belt.
> Badger.
>
>
I just rechecked the can, it's actually 15w/40. I don't see what
difference the "for high mileage engines" bit is about, maybe special
detergents added? RAVE says 15w/40 is ok 50c+.
Opinion is the noise is definitely top end cam-knock/tappets related,
being stripped down next week, I'll put my wallet on sedatives now.

Gazza

--

1998 V8 HSE P38
1989 V8 RR Classic

If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

On or around Fri, 05 May 2006 19:47:46 +0100, Gazza
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Badger wrote:
>> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>On or around Fri, 05 May 2006 08:00:52 +0100, Gazza
>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Bill Payer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>What grade oil do you use? I use 20w/50 oil in my RR V8.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>10w/40 Castrol "high mileage engines" stuff in there at the moment.
>>>
>>>way to thin for hot temperatures.
>>>
>>>decent 20W50 if you can get it... failing that 15W50, it's the 50 part
>>>that's important.
>>>
>>>API SG or higher (API SF is worse than SG which is worse than SH, etc.) is
>>>good too, less sludge-forming.
>>>
>>>What's the word on Thor engines? ISTR different oil pump and stuff, does
>>>that mean they're happier on thin oil?
>>
>>
>> 10W40 or 15W40, due to the tighter production tolerances and different oil
>> pump type, Austin. it's only the "serpentine" type engines that have the
>> later pump, all earlier variants (with a distributor) have the old style
>> pump and need the 10 or 15W50 oil, the exception being the late "interim"
>> 3.9 engine which has a distributor, but also has the late pump and
>> serpentine belt.
>> Badger.
>>
>>
>I just rechecked the can, it's actually 15w/40. I don't see what
>difference the "for high mileage engines" bit is about, maybe special
>detergents added? RAVE says 15w/40 is ok 50c+.
>Opinion is the noise is definitely top end cam-knock/tappets related,
>being stripped down next week, I'll put my wallet on sedatives now.

which engine, though? I'd still not fancy a W40 in any of the earlier ones
in summer. Cold weather might be OK. The book, reflecting modern trends in
oils, recommends thin stuff, but that doesn't alter the engine design...
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
face by frightening people in the street.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.