Freelander 1 Tailgate problem

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Rank Amatuer

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Location
Scotland
Damn thing won't open.

What does work:
I can open and close the window from the centre console.
I can lock and unlock both driver and passenger doors using the keyfob.
I can open and close the window fusing the key fob.
I can close the window by turning the key in the tailgate lock. If I stop closing it, it opens again.
Rear wiper works and parks off the glass.
Rear window heating elements work.

What have I done:
Proved the door handle microswitch works.
"Calibrated" the tailgate window.

One other odd thing:
After unlocking the car and opening the door there is a series of alarm beeps until I put the key in the ignition. Is that normal?

Just can't open the tailgate door!
Other than getting Michael Caine in to "Blow the bloody door off" I'm flummoxed.
Any ideas gratefully received.
 
Beeps (if internal to car and not horn) mean your fob battery is low. Press it again should silence it. Tailgate sounds like no feed from ccu to lock solenoid. There is a thread on how to false feed the lock but you need to remove door trim first which is tricky but not impossible with door shut. Again there is a thread on this too. Bad design this as no manual overide is provided as on driver's door.
 
Beep is internal and the range of the fob is about 6 feet, so battery on the way out. Thanks.

Right then. Next step is to clamber in the back and some how get the trim off to get access to the tailgate lock wiring and mechanism. I might just wait for some warmer weather and do it with the roof off (it's an FL1 'Sport')
 
As Andy said. It's likely the door actuator that's either faulty, or has corrosion on its terminals. It is possible to use a "slim jim" to "pop" the lock, if you can locate it. ;)

Here's a picture of the actuator.
20190316_214729.jpg
 
Got the internal trim off the tailgate. Removed, cleaned and re-inserted the white plug that goes into the bottom of the actuator. Now, when I operate the boot handle microswitch, the window drops a couple of cm followed by a very faint click, which I think may be the actuator trying to work. The lock stays firmly secure however.

I can't see anything that resembles the top half of the picture above, probably because it's hidden behind a 'slim jim' proof cover plate held in place by hard-to-get-at torx screws. All I need now is a very small, very strong, left-handed helper with double articulated wrists.
 
Done it! Door open, actuator out. Put 12V on it, and apart from a little spark, no life. Need a new actuator.

Once the plastic cover plate was removed it was very easy to push the actuator arm down to unlock the door. Just a sod to get at.

When I put it all back together I plan to fit an emergency door pull in the rear door pocket.

Now, where's the best place to source a working actuator? (Edit: Bought one. £17.99 eBay)
 
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