Swivel Pin Pre-Load...

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darkcyde

New Member
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44
Hi all

I'm in the process of overhauling the front axle (new swivel balls, bearings, seals, the lot) following one of the technical guides I found online.

I had a question regarding the upper swivel pin pre-loading. I've tightened the bottom pin to the torque settings stated, and put a thickish shimm under the top one, and tightened to the specified torque.

But the pivot seemed quite tight, so I added a few extra shimms to the top pin and re-did the torque and now it feels better. You can pivot the ball and it takes "an amount" of effort, but it's not difficult to turn it.

The other side which is still original is looser then the one I've done, but the vehicle has always had really light steering, and has always suffered from wandering about the road at speed, so I figured that the original pre-loading was probably too loose.

What are other peoples opinion on pre-loading?
 
Hi all

I'm in the process of overhauling the front axle (new swivel balls, bearings, seals, the lot) following one of the technical guides I found online.

I had a question regarding the upper swivel pin pre-loading. I've tightened the bottom pin to the torque settings stated, and put a thickish shimm under the top one, and tightened to the specified torque.

But the pivot seemed quite tight, so I added a few extra shimms to the top pin and re-did the torque and now it feels better. You can pivot the ball and it takes "an amount" of effort, but it's not difficult to turn it.

The other side which is still original is looser then the one I've done, but the vehicle has always had really light steering, and has always suffered from wandering about the road at speed, so I figured that the original pre-loading was probably too loose.

What are other peoples opinion on pre-loading?
there is correct pre load which is measured with a spring balance in the drag link hole which is 8 - 10lb once initial resistance is overcome
 
The workshop manuals all measure with the bearings removed and drive shafts disconnected, there was one I followed from aomeone on another site which was a higher resistance because it left the bearings and driveshafts connected... I found it to work just fine... stopped the wandering.
 
Ah set mines between 12-14 lbs usin' a set of fishin' scales once it's bolted back on and top and bottom swivels torqued up without fitting the brake pipe thingy or rods;):D
 
So you just hook the scales on the ball joint arm of the assembly and pull it, and it should pull with 12 - 14lbs worth of effort, yes?

Ok, next question - where can I get a set of scales?? ;-)

EDIT : s'ok - found a set at my local DIY Hardware store 2 minutes from me doorstep! Those places are little aladins caves!
 
Last edited:
Careful!
The pre-load depends on whether you've got the early Railko Bush type top swivel, or the later Taper Bearing type. It also depends whether you're fitting new Bushes / Bearings or re-fitting old ones.
Check RAVE for your exact settings.
 
Yeah, I have the railko type. However, luckily I've set them to about 10lbs (which was stated in my Haynes manual), and rave asks for 8 - 10lbs, so I'm in the clear! Thankfully as I've just finished the reassembling!! ;-)

One point to note tho, the rave manual said to lubricate the railko bush with an EP oil, but I've just used the swivel grease. I don't think this should present a problem, should it?? Please say no! ;-)
 
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