Disco 3 (LR3) Suspension: What have I done? FIXED

So today Compressor and reservoir replacement today, in doing so I have put a C1A35-01 fault code on it. Vehicle operates as should be but lowers and rises albeit very slowly. I have a amber light on ffs!

Any ideas to what I have done wrong?

I replaced the compressor years back and had no issue?

Can anyone tell me the pipe size around the reservoir is it 4mm or 6mm? I wish to add a T and add an aux air supply to work of the tank. Where can I put this T into the system to facilitate this?

Cheers.

Hold on, let me start the smoke signals....

@gstuart !!!!!

And now we wait...hold tight men, for he is soon upon us. The D3 grandad, nay, Grand master!

ha ha yeah, he does know his sus issues after dismantling his D3

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

So today Compressor and reservoir replacement today, in doing so I have put a C1A35-01 fault code on it. Vehicle operates as should be but lowers and rises albeit very slowly. I have a amber light on ffs!

Any ideas to what I have done wrong?

I replaced the compressor years back and had no issue?

Can anyone tell me the pipe size around the reservoir is it 4mm or 6mm? I wish to add a T and add an aux air supply to work of the tank. Where can I put this T into the system to facilitate this?

Cheers.

Click to expand...

On the P38 forum folks recommend you not try to use the air suspension system for other purposes like filling tires. The reserve air volume in the system is not large and the pump is a low volume, high pressure pump not designed to run for a long time filling up large volumes of space. D3 may be different but I have my doubts....

Yeah as above, prob better off installing 2nd battery/split charge system and a little compressor. You could run a decent cool box, lights etc as well

New comp, old comp? original make comp or AMK? or some cheap copy?

New compressor. ( Hitachi )

Gord Wedman said:

On the P38 forum folks recommend you not try to use the air suspension system for other purposes like filling tires. The reserve air volume in the system is not large and the pump is a low volume, high pressure pump not designed to run for a long time filling up large volumes of space. D3 may be different but I have my doubts....

Click to expand...

Good point, the tank isn't that big after all is it.

Looking more into the code this morning I am inclined to say I have probably not seated the connectors back onto the res valve properly and that it is a electrical issue.

Thoughts?

HI

indeed ref the compressor plse ensure the soft ware and relay are relevant to the hitachi system and not for AMK

once that’s been established check on live data to ensure the compressor is producing the same as in the pressure chart

if it does there may be a leak somewhere or remnant's from the white silica inside valve blocks that reduce flow of air

another way air can be reduced is if the air inlet filter is blocked , that sits rear near side inside the boot side locker , can easily leave the pipes off at the compressor end to ensure air isn’t being restricted on any way

also enclosed a picture for u about the T piece, plse also ensure the pipes are in the correct positions , air tank will be 6mm

personally replaced all my Voss connectors with brass push fits , a lot cheaper and easier , can’t get over those Voss connectors are nearly £18 each , brass push fits are £4.50 each

height calibration is also very important , in normal ride height , front 466mm / rears 485mm , measured from the bottom of the wheel arch liner to the centre of the wheels , easier to put some masking tape on the centre of the wheels with a pencil mark as u can then get the tape measure back in the exact same spot

hope that helps

Lol, shucks ur make me blush , bless u for such kind comments , thk u so much

indeed that was great fun where it started with a small leak to having to rip the thing apart and having to go through everything step by step

hopefully I can help in a very small way by passing on what I learnt

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

Looking more into the code this morning I am inclined to say I have probably not seated the connectors back onto the res valve properly and that it is a electrical issue.

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

hi

have enclosed the pipe layout for u, just done a drawing n the connections

indeed after that’s been verified to go round with some soapy water

when the white silica from the compressors dryer fails it turns to dust and goes round the entire system, blocking up the air lines and under the valve block seals , u can verify the valve back seals by using a vacuum gauge , that what I done after I replaced my seals on every valve block

but because my system had been bodged so much in the end I had to test each air line and electrical , then had to replace
compressor , relay, air tank, 3 x valve blocks , both front struts and all the voss fittings , then retesting all the lines under pressure and vacuum by making up a test kit ensuring everything was 100% correct

Here’s also some other links that I’ve bookmarked over time , hope it’s useful

Thanks, just to add car raises and lowers and has not dropped overnight. IMO no leaks, I have changed valves previous.

First port of call I am going to disconnect the exhaust from the back of the compressor to see if that affects it in any way.

I will also put inline compression fittings around the reservoir to aid future replacement, the LR idea of the screwed voss fittings is rubbish imo.

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

Thanks, just to add car raises and lowers and has not dropped overnight. IMO no leaks, I have changed valves previous.

First port of call I am going to disconnect the exhaust from the back of the compressor to see if that affects it in any way.

I will also put inline compression fittings around the reservoir to aid future replacement, the LR idea of the screwed voss fittings is rubbish imo.

Click to expand...

ur so welcome , indeed i also got fed up with those Voss connectors along with the cost

hope u don’t mind me adding but if u have diagnostics that provides live data u can plug it in before removing the dryer end pipes before and after to see if the pressure changes , at least it will tell u if the boot air intake filter is restricted

best way to double check for leaks is by measuring the heights and then pulling fuse F26 from the engine bay then leave overnight then recheck heights

seeing that after it’s locked and goes into sleep mode it will wake and do a self level check every 6 x hours , so by disabling the self levelling u can see if there’s any leaks as the valve blocks then won’t open, but can flag any of them letting by, so In the morning u can see if maybe just one corner has dropped , just a really effective test

other instances where this test works very well is if the reservoir valve block is letting by and air tank is leaking

indeed any compression fitting that uses an olive / compression ring should have an insert in order for the olive to bite and prevent crushing of the pipe like the voss connectors do, where as it’s not required on pushfits

if u have diagnostics what are u using plse, if not can recommend a few for u as in all honesty with these vehicles having one is a must

hope that makes sense and other links are useful to u

plse let us know how u get on

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

Thanks, just to add car raises and lowers and has not dropped overnight. IMO no leaks, I have changed valves previous.

First port of call I am going to disconnect the exhaust from the back of the compressor to see if that affects it in any way.

I will also put inline compression fittings around the reservoir to aid future replacement, the LR idea of the screwed voss fittings is rubbish imo.

Click to expand...

hi @andyschleckscheshirecat

how u getting on mate , any update plse

No update as yet due to work commitments, D3 is driving around as normal albeit with an amber light at present.

Does anyone know the thread pitch of the valve blocks as I am going to replace the voss connectors with push fit for a start off.

After this I am going to completely take out the res assembly and re-do.

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

No update as yet due to work commitments, D3 is driving around as normal albeit with an amber light at present.

Does anyone know the thread pitch of the valve blocks as I am going to replace the voss connectors with push fit for a start off.

After this I am going to completely take out the res assembly and re-do.

Click to expand...

At a guess 1/8 or 1/4 bsp.

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

No update as yet due to work commitments, D3 is driving around as normal albeit with an amber light at present.

Does anyone know the thread pitch of the valve blocks as I am going to replace the voss connectors with push fit for a start off.

After this I am going to completely take out the res assembly and re-do.

Click to expand...

Give X8R a call they will probably know. My new drier cap for the L322 came with them but I was missing 1 which they sent pronto .

J

Hi

pipe size on the reservoir valve block with be 6mm , fittings are M10 x 1.0 metric pitch

indeed done the same with replacing all the old Voss connectors with the brass push fits , they have a rating of 80 bar so well exceeding required pressure limits

try some PTFE on the threads of the fittings as that will help reduce air leaks , only need a few wraps as alas if too much is out on it will then expand the fitting and can cause it to split

hope that helps