Suspension Bushes.

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S

Samuel

Guest
G'day all.

Just a query about my LWB series 3. i splashed out on a complete set of
those polyurethane suspension bushes. got stuck into it this morning, got
the shackle and both bolts out of the left rear, only to find the standard
bushes are incredibly hard to budge. i tried a little "persuasive
percussion" with a lump of wood, and a bodged up press using a D clamp, but
to no avail. any one got any advice on how to get these little buggers out??

Thanks.

Sam.


 
If its got a metal insert

*Slightly oversize drill and drill at an angle

*Hacksaw the metal tube

*Burn out with a gas torch

Good luck

John H


"Samuel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> G'day all.
>
> Just a query about my LWB series 3. i splashed out on a complete set of
> those polyurethane suspension bushes. got stuck into it this morning, got
> the shackle and both bolts out of the left rear, only to find the standard
> bushes are incredibly hard to budge. i tried a little "persuasive
> percussion" with a lump of wood, and a bodged up press using a D clamp,
but
> to no avail. any one got any advice on how to get these little buggers
out??
>
> Thanks.
>
> Sam.
>
>


 
Hirsty's wrote:

> "Samuel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>G'day all.
>>
>>Just a query about my LWB series 3. i splashed out on a complete set of
>>those polyurethane suspension bushes. got stuck into it this morning, got
>>the shackle and both bolts out of the left rear, only to find the standard
>>bushes are incredibly hard to budge. i tried a little "persuasive
>>percussion" with a lump of wood, and a bodged up press using a D clamp,
>>but to no avail. any one got any advice on how to get these little buggers
>>out??
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Sam.
>>


> If its got a metal insert
>
> *Slightly oversize drill and drill at an angle
>
> *Hacksaw the metal tube
>
> *Burn out with a gas torch
>
> Good luck
>
> John H

I'd vary that slightly.

Heat up (we're talking gas torch not hair dryer!) the metal insert to
free the bond to the rubber. Knock out the insert. Don't worry about
burning the rubber - that's the next step. You should now have access to
hacksaw through the outer tube.

Heating should be relatively localised - you don't want to overheat the
spring leaf if that's where you're working.

Incidentally, are you talking about the spring eye bushes or the bushes
in the chassis? If it's the chassis ones, 'little buggers' is a bit of
an understatement when it comes to refitting unless the polyurethane
ones are easier.
 
On Sat, 14 May 2005 19:51:07 +1000, "Samuel"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>G'day all.
>
>Just a query about my LWB series 3. i splashed out on a complete set of
>those polyurethane suspension bushes. got stuck into it this morning, got
>the shackle and both bolts out of the left rear, only to find the standard
>bushes are incredibly hard to budge. i tried a little "persuasive
>percussion" with a lump of wood, and a bodged up press using a D clamp, but
>to no avail. any one got any advice on how to get these little buggers out??
>

Yes, cut em or burn em. You won't drive them out unless you have a
hydraulic press, it's difficult enough driving the new ones in without
one.

Generally speaking the accepted method is to remove the centre,
usually by drilling or burning the rubber away, and then pass a
hacksaw blade through the outer, attach it to the hacksaw and cut
through the outer shell. The resulting gap will allow the bush to be
tapped out.

Alex
 
Thanks for the advice fellas. i was hoping i wouldn't have to get my drill
out. i am always a little scared using drills and oxy torches etc. around
sprinf mounts and other really important things. i'm a little paranoid about
cutting metal that i shouldn't cut. anyway, i'll have a crack at it next
weekend maybe.

Cheers

Sam.

> Yes, cut em or burn em. You won't drive them out unless you have a
> hydraulic press, it's difficult enough driving the new ones in without
> one.
>
> Generally speaking the accepted method is to remove the centre,
> usually by drilling or burning the rubber away, and then pass a
> hacksaw blade through the outer, attach it to the hacksaw and cut
> through the outer shell. The resulting gap will allow the bush to be
> tapped out.
>
> Alex


 
Sam

I did this job on my RR classic about a year ago before I left the UK.
- the heat you need to use to burn the rubber away will not affect the
spring tempering or anything mettalurgical. Do make sure you do it
outside and try not to breathe the fumes, and keep the melted burning
rubber blobs away from anything that matters, like your legs and arms
or garage floor - it won't come off. Its the easiest way of doing it.

When you saw through the outer casing of the rubber bushings you need
to do it carefully and keep inspecting the sawcut you are maing with a
good light - you can see when you have cut through the bushing into the
"socket" it fits in. You'll never get the central bit cut through
completely but you don't need to. Just drive a screwdriver down one
side of the cut casing and it will split the "uncut " bit. and ten
easily drive it out.

Puttin PU bushings in is easy - you can use grease. and a piece of
studding a couple of nuts and some appropriately sized sockets.

Jon

 
"jonse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sam
>
> I did this job on my RR classic about a year ago before I left the UK.
> - the heat you need to use to burn the rubber away will not affect the
> spring tempering or anything mettalurgical. Do make sure you do it
> outside and try not to breathe the fumes, and keep the melted burning
> rubber blobs away from anything that matters, like your legs and arms
> or garage floor - it won't come off. Its the easiest way of doing it.
>
i know what burning rubber or plastic does to your skin, not pleasant. i
think might have a crack at it with a drill first. chuck the biggest bit
into the drill and extract the inner tube and the rubber. i am fairly sure a
13mm bit should do the job.


> When you saw through the outer casing of the rubber bushings you need
> to do it carefully and keep inspecting the sawcut you are maing with a
> good light - you can see when you have cut through the bushing into the
> "socket" it fits in. You'll never get the central bit cut through
> completely but you don't need to. Just drive a screwdriver down one
> side of the cut casing and it will split the "uncut " bit. and ten
> easily drive it out.
>
> Puttin PU bushings in is easy - you can use grease. and a piece of
> studding a couple of nuts and some appropriately sized sockets.
>

well, that is a relief. just a pity the standard ones are such a bastard to
get out.

Thanks.

Sam.


 


Samuel wrote:
> "jonse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Sam
>>
>>I did this job on my RR classic about a year ago before I left the UK.
>>- the heat you need to use to burn the rubber away will not affect the
>>spring tempering or anything mettalurgical. Do make sure you do it
>>outside and try not to breathe the fumes, and keep the melted burning
>>rubber blobs away from anything that matters, like your legs and arms
>>or garage floor - it won't come off. Its the easiest way of doing it.
>>
>
> i know what burning rubber or plastic does to your skin, not pleasant. i
> think might have a crack at it with a drill first. chuck the biggest bit
> into the drill and extract the inner tube and the rubber. i am fairly sure a
> 13mm bit should do the job.

The risk of hot rubber on your skin is tiny if you take just the
simplest of precautions. You are applying the heat from the side of the
vehicle - there's no need to be under the hot stuff.

On the other hand drilling out a rubber-mounted bush unless you can
restrain it some way will be an awful job. I wouldn't even consider it
as sensible.

Having removed the insert you then have to get through the rubber to
apply your hacksaw to the outer tube. That's another foul job unless you
burn the rubber out.

Apart from Jon's recommendation to do the job outside, I would only add
that it's a good idea to have a water sprayer handy to keep things under
control.
 
On Wed, 18 May 2005 19:08:07 +0100, Dougal wrote:

> Having removed the insert you then have to get through the rubber to
> apply your hacksaw to the outer tube. That's another foul job unless
> you burn the rubber out.

What is this rubber that resists a drill and hacksaw blade? I've got
to admit all this burning out has had me wondering for a while. At
first I thought there wasn't a hole through the middle but it appears
that there is and sleeved so what is the problem with threading a
hacksaw blade through the hole, cutting through the sleeve and rubber
and finally the outer. Even the burner outers hacksaw through the
outer...

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



 
In message <[email protected]>, Dave
Liquorice <[email protected]> writes
>On Wed, 18 May 2005 19:08:07 +0100, Dougal wrote:
>
>> Having removed the insert you then have to get through the rubber to
>> apply your hacksaw to the outer tube. That's another foul job unless
>> you burn the rubber out.
>
>What is this rubber that resists a drill and hacksaw blade? I've got
>to admit all this burning out has had me wondering for a while. At
>first I thought there wasn't a hole through the middle but it appears
>that there is and sleeved so what is the problem with threading a
>hacksaw blade through the hole, cutting through the sleeve and rubber
>and finally the outer. Even the burner outers hacksaw through the
>outer...
>
Because there's a 70% or more chance that you've had to cut the bolts
because they're corroded into their sleeves thus rendering those holes
most definitely blocked!

--
AndyG
 
AJG wrote:
> In message <[email protected]>, Dave
> Liquorice <[email protected]> writes
>
>> On Wed, 18 May 2005 19:08:07 +0100, Dougal wrote:
>>
>>> Having removed the insert you then have to get through the rubber to
>>> apply your hacksaw to the outer tube. That's another foul job unless
>>> you burn the rubber out.
>>
>>
>> What is this rubber that resists a drill and hacksaw blade? I've got
>> to admit all this burning out has had me wondering for a while. At
>> first I thought there wasn't a hole through the middle but it appears
>> that there is and sleeved so what is the problem with threading a
>> hacksaw blade through the hole, cutting through the sleeve and rubber
>> and finally the outer. Even the burner outers hacksaw through the
>> outer...
>>
> Because there's a 70% or more chance that you've had to cut the bolts
> because they're corroded into their sleeves thus rendering those holes
> most definitely blocked!

Whilst that is frequently true it was not among my original thoughts.

I was not suggesting in my original comment that the use of a drill and
hacksaw on rubber were impossible. However my personal experience has
been that, even with a new blade, certain rubbers (including those in
this type of bush) are not easily cut with a hacksaw especially if you
are working in an awkward location.

The drilling of the insert easily requires it to be held stationary.
Unless you do something unusual to achieve that, the insert is
'floating' both rotationally and axially in the rubber. It's not an easy
thing to drill.

Most people will have access to a gas torch. I can only suggest that to
use it is the easiest way to get these bushes out.

 
On Sat, 14 May 2005 18:37:56 GMT, Alex <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Sat, 14 May 2005 19:51:07 +1000, "Samuel"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>G'day all.
>>
>>Just a query about my LWB series 3. i splashed out on a complete set of
>>those polyurethane suspension bushes. got stuck into it this morning, got
>>the shackle and both bolts out of the left rear, only to find the standard
>>bushes are incredibly hard to budge. i tried a little "persuasive
>>percussion" with a lump of wood, and a bodged up press using a D clamp, but
>>to no avail. any one got any advice on how to get these little buggers out??
>>
>
>Yes, cut em or burn em. You won't drive them out unless you have a
>hydraulic press, it's difficult enough driving the new ones in without
>one.
>
>Generally speaking the accepted method is to remove the centre,
>usually by drilling or burning the rubber away, and then pass a
>hacksaw blade through the outer, attach it to the hacksaw and cut
>through the outer shell. The resulting gap will allow the bush to be
>tapped out.
>
>Alex

Didn't someone make a tool called a bushwhacker or similar just for
this? As I've just ordered a new front suspension for mine I have an
interest....

--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70
 

"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> >Didn't someone make a tool called a bushwhacker or similar just for
> >this? As I've just ordered a new front suspension for mine I have an
> >interest....
>
> http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html
>
> Hmmm, gas torch looks like the way to go....
>

mmmm, interesting looking piece of kit. but at 160 pounds, i might see what
i can come up with. s'pose it wouldn't be all that hard to make a similar
thing in the back shed hey?? all you need is a long bolt, then some sort of
cylinder thingy that pushes against the chassis etc. i'll have a think about
it.

Sam.


 
Samuel wrote:

>
> "Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> >Didn't someone make a tool called a bushwhacker or similar just for
>> >this? As I've just ordered a new front suspension for mine I have an
>> >interest....
>>
>> http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html
>>
>> Hmmm, gas torch looks like the way to go....
>>
>
> mmmm, interesting looking piece of kit. but at 160 pounds, i might see
> what i can come up with. s'pose it wouldn't be all that hard to make a
> similar thing in the back shed hey?? all you need is a long bolt, then
> some sort of cylinder thingy that pushes against the chassis etc. i'll
> have a think about it.
>
> Sam.

You will need to use a high tensile bolt as large as will fit through the
bush. You can do it with an assortment of sockets or you can make the
tools with a lathe if you have one.
JD
 
On Sat, 21 May 2005 17:47:02 +1000, "Samuel"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> >Didn't someone make a tool called a bushwhacker or similar just for
>> >this? As I've just ordered a new front suspension for mine I have an
>> >interest....
>>
>> http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html
>>
>> Hmmm, gas torch looks like the way to go....
>>
>
>mmmm, interesting looking piece of kit. but at 160 pounds, i might see what
>i can come up with. s'pose it wouldn't be all that hard to make a similar
>thing in the back shed hey?? all you need is a long bolt, then some sort of
>cylinder thingy that pushes against the chassis etc. i'll have a think about
>it.
>
>Sam.
>

There's summat on Chris Perfect's site about hiring one, but you could
probably rig something fairly cheaply.

Let me know how you get on - I've just ordered all the parts for mine.


--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70
 
>
> You will need to use a high tensile bolt as large as will fit through the
> bush. You can do it with an assortment of sockets or you can make the
> tools with a lathe if you have one.
> JD

Why high tensile, is that because of the large forces likely to be required
to get the bush out?? it would have to be a little over twice the length of
one bush wouldn't it, which would make the bolt about 6 inches.

i didn't think of using sockets. that sounds like a good idea, just need
one socket large enough to go around the bush, so about 50 ml, and something
just wide enough to sit flush around the bush.

unfortunately i don't have a lathe.

i'll have a crack at it during the week and see what i can do.

cheers.

Sam.


 
Samuel wrote:

>>
>> You will need to use a high tensile bolt as large as will fit through the
>> bush. You can do it with an assortment of sockets or you can make the
>> tools with a lathe if you have one.
>> JD
>
> Why high tensile, is that because of the large forces likely to be
> required to get the bush out?? it would have to be a little over twice the
> length of one bush wouldn't it, which would make the bolt about 6 inches.

Yes, you may get away with a normal bolt, but it is likely that you will
break it if the bushes are as tight as they usually are. Oil the thread
anyway to avoid stripping it.

>
> i didn't think of using sockets. that sounds like a good idea, just need
> one socket large enough to go around the bush, so about 50 ml, and
> something just wide enough to sit flush around the bush.
>
> unfortunately i don't have a lathe.
>
> i'll have a crack at it during the week and see what i can do.
>
> cheers.
>
> Sam.

When fitting new bushes put antiseize compound on the outer and inner
sleeves to make it easier next time.
JD

 
>
> When fitting new bushes put antiseize compound on the outer and inner
> sleeves to make it easier next time.
> JD
>

i am fitting a new set of them fandangled polyurethane bushes which, from
what i've heard on the grapevine, are not as much of a turd to fit and
extract. but we'll see hey??

Sam.


 
Samuel wrote:

>>
>> When fitting new bushes put antiseize compound on the outer and inner
>> sleeves to make it easier next time.
>> JD
>>
>
> i am fitting a new set of them fandangled polyurethane bushes which, from
> what i've heard on the grapevine, are not as much of a turd to fit and
> extract. but we'll see hey??
>
> Sam.

They are easier to fit, and also easier to remove, but do have drawbacks.
JD
 
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