Suspension advice….

On my 2a/3 crossover which is a 2.25d (it’s had so much work over its lifetime it’s basically a 3) I’m working through a list of things to do (get the feeling this is part of the fun).

The ride is shall we say ‘bumpy and choppy’ and she likes to wander a little. I’m wondering if it’s time for new leaf springs….

At the front I’ve noticed the leaf springs are not tight together at the ends - hopefully this is clear on the photo. Is this correct?

They are not springs anymore. A few options:
1) replace with like, Jones springs
2) replace with parabolic springs
3) remove and refurbis

To refurb, disassemble, taking care not to break the clips, by using heat to bend the clips back, remove rust, grease, reassemble, refit.

Frustrated Seriesist said:

View attachment 248665 On my 2a/3 crossover which is a 2.25d (it’s had so much work over its lifetime it’s basically a 3) I’m working through a list of things to do (get the feeling this is part of the fun).

The ride is shall we say ‘bumpy and choppy’ and she likes to wander a little. I’m wondering if it’s time for new leaf springs….

At the front I’ve noticed the leaf springs are not tight together at the ends - hopefully this is clear on the photo. Is this correct?

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You might be able to extend the life of those by jacking up the vehicle on the chassis, and working graphited grease into the leaves on both sides, they are completely dry.

If that doesn't work, like he says, replace with standard, replace with parabolics, or take the apart and rebuild them.
They aren't a lot of money to buy new, and last pretty well once replaced.

I refurbed my rears in June, went reasonably well but broke a clamp , I had the steel and rivets in from doing fronts a couple of years ago so sorted quickly , I derusted , and used anti rust coating and cheap black spray and assembled with waxoyl , ride is now good, , if you’re handy it’s worth having a go.

Thanks folks.

I have to confess to enjoying getting things to work again but my concerns are how the bottom ones look flat/splayed in the wrong direction.

This is my first car with leaf springs so it’s a learning curve, assuming I go the replacement route, what are the best ones to go for? Mostly road driving (probably 99% of the time)with the odd bit of time on the farm.

Cheers,

Why not spray them with some derv as a test/short term bodge? if the ride improves then you know its worth the effort to stirp and clean/grease/replace.

Edit to add maybe steering box needs adjusting for the wander? bad tracking can also cause wandering

My springs are way worse than yours.

Frustrated Seriesist said:

Thanks folks.

I have to confess to enjoying getting things to work again but my concerns are how the bottom ones look flat/splayed in the wrong direction.

This is my first car with leaf springs so it’s a learning curve, assuming I go the replacement route, what are the best ones to go for? Mostly road driving (probably 99% of the time)with the odd bit of time on the farm.

Cheers,

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Leaf springs are quite simple, and have been around since the days of horses and carriages.

They don't do anything alarming, generally just sag slowly over the years until you get fed up with it and replace them.

Main thing is to keep them flexible enough that they don't batter your back to pieces while you drive.

I can't really recall leaf spring wear having much effect on Series road handling, that is usually to do with steering or swivel pin housing issues.

Either way you will need new U bolts, so with them at hand you can remove the 2 on spring and see if
a) the bottom two plates spring back to normal
b) the bottom two plates fall into 4 halves

if a) then inspect and it’s prob good to refurbish, replace with new u bolts, if b) then time for new set
I was keen to keep originals , not sure on suppliers have a search on forum , it’s prob been asked lots times before
I like pa Blanchard as sup0lier and got quality U bolts at cheap prices,

Turboman said:

I can't really recall leaf spring wear having much effect on Series road handling, that is usually to do with steering or swivel pin housing issues.

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Agree , check the 4 bolts securing the steering box to bracket and also both splined drop arms are tight
The upper one on mine was quite loose as nut loose, mot man picked both these issues up on separate mots, lower steering arm on relay behind front panel. Two man job here , one to rive steering wheel , one to watch for movement
There is about 6? Balljoints to check too
You can adjust steering box a tad too under drivers front wing

steve2286w said:

Agree , check the 4 bolts securing the steering box to bracket and also both splined drop arms are tight
The upper one on mine was quite loose as nut loose, mot man picked both these issues up on separate mots, lower steering arm on relay behind front panel. Two man job here , one to rive steering wheel , one to watch for movement
There is about 6? Balljoints to check too
You can adjust steering box a tad too under drivers front wing

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Think that is right about the balljoints, and the one at the bottom of the steering arm is hard to grease, so often wears out. Just a little bit of play in a few of them adds up to quite a bit of slop in the steering.
And swivel pin wear, or bad adjustment, can lead to quite alarming handling.

I have not got my head round greasing ball joints/ ujs , I have two grease guns and none fit the nipples

Any more than 2” play on the steering wheel and my mot man asks questions

steve2286w said:

I have not got my head round greasing ball joints/ ujs , I have two grease guns and none fit the nipples

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There are metric and imperial nipples, but I think my grease gun fits both types. With the UJs on the propshaft, I find it is important to turn the propshaft until the yokes are at maximum opening, i.e with the nipple at the bottom of the angle of the joint. Otherwise, the grease gun doesn't fit between the yokes.

For the nipple on the balljoint at the bottom of the drop arm, I cut a small hole, just big enough for the tip of the grease gun, in the inner wing, so I can grease the joint. Then I plug the hole with epoxy putty, and knock it out next time I want to grease.

steve2286w said:

I have not got my head round greasing ball joints/ ujs , I have two grease guns and none fit the nipples

Any more than 2” play on the steering wheel and my mot man asks questions

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The nipples themselves can block up with hardened grease or rust. They are only a few pence each to change.

A Series should have some play at the wheel, you need to get a better MOT man, although most Series don't need MOT now.

Turboman said:

A Series should have some play at the wheel, you need to get a better MOT man, although most Series don't need MOT now

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he semi retired a year ago and closed his small garage , new regs with computerised brake testing coming in persuaded him to go part time at someone’s else’s more modern garage .
Last mot I booked a day when he worked went in and he was out of garage , the other mechanic said “I’m not touching that “ which kind of amused and surprised me but also pleased as I’m very nervous about halfshafts being sheared on the hand brake test

steve2286w said:

he semi retired a year ago and closed his small garage , new regs with computerised brake testing coming in persuaded him to go part time at someone’s else’s more modern garage .
Last mot I booked a day when he worked went in and he was out of garage , the other mechanic said “I’m not touching that “ which kind of amused and surprised me but also pleased as I’m very nervous about halfshafts being sheared on the hand brake test

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Most modern garages don't have a clue when it comes to Series, and don't know what is required of an old vehicle.

I am surprised they test the transmission brake on a rolling road tester at all, not recommended, and could easily break the tester.

I spoke with GB Springs today and they now only do parabolic springs. he mentioned strapping to reduce travel…Has anyone got experience of these from GB? If so would you recommend? Mostly road use.

Frustrated Seriesist said:

I spoke with GB Springs today and they now only do parabolic springs. he mentioned strapping to reduce travel…Has anyone got experience of these from GB? If so would you recommend? Mostly road use.

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Parabolics are supposed to give a smoother ride, and maybe do so, but it is marginal.
Personally, I would fit standard springs, but avoid heavy duty at all costs.
But it is your motor, so do what you want.

Turboman said:

Parabolics are supposed to give a smoother ride, and maybe do so, but it is marginal.
Personally, I would fit standard springs, but avoid heavy duty at all costs.
But it is your motor, so do what you want.

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A few years back I went to see an 88 to buy, it had parabolics fitted, took it for a test drive, it wa slike the steering wheel was not connected to the front wheels, worst riding series ever, almost like driving a yoyo.

lynall said:

A few years back I went to see an 88 to buy, it had parabolics fitted, took it for a test drive, it wa slike the steering wheel was not connected to the front wheels, worst riding series ever, almost like driving a yoyo.

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Ours has them. Only because they were recently fitted when we bought it.
I don't think they are any improvement on standard, and I don't think they will last as long.
When they wear out, I will be fitting standard.

Turboman said:

Ours has them. Only because they were recently fitted when we bought it.
I don't think they are any improvement on standard, and I don't think they will last as long.
When they wear out, I will be fitting standard.

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What does it drive like?