Sump Guards, anyone bought or modified exisiting one?

use the existing frame and weld the plate to it ,make it a bit longer at the back and use the pre tapped holes in the sub frame to fix it .
I put a 6mm rubber spacer between the plate and the sub frame as a vibration dampener as the plate buzzed a bit at constant road speeds(50-55)

edge said:

use the existing frame and weld the plate to it ,make it a bit longer at the back and use the pre tapped holes in the sub frame to fix it .
I put a 6mm rubber spacer between the plate and the sub frame as a vibration dampener as the plate buzzed a bit at constant road speeds(50-55)

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That's exactly what i'd do !!

Nodge68 said:

That's exactly what i'd do !!

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Same here, I was planning on going under the subframe so the rear mounting bolts don't take all the stress. I was thinking of putting legs up to the chassis rails for more support too! My only concern is chequer plate being designed to be grippy and causing drag?

I like abusing mine off road. It takes a right pasting and amazes "proper" land rover owners. I was chasing a lifted 33" tyred classic around at the weekend. There was very little that my freelander couldn't do! The only issue is lack of low range means you have to hit some things quite hard! But even the lowly 1.8 copes remarkably well!

edge said:

use the existing frame and weld the plate to it ,make it a bit longer at the back and use the pre tapped holes in the sub frame to fix it .
I put a 6mm rubber spacer between the plate and the sub frame as a vibration dampener as the plate buzzed a bit at constant road speeds(50-55)

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I'll second that. That is the sort of thing I was thinking of. However the dragging issue has made me think of that plus some smooth ally. Now where to find some around these parts and then a friendly welder who can weld ally.

The chequer side down wont even be noticeable as drag, if you get that hard a contact it will just grind the alli away anyhow . It will need a decent bit of Angle across it to try and stop deflection upwards on the hidden side obviously .
I made a series gearbox guard out of T6 years back , 10mm and that coped perfectly adequately , it was a copy of the gen LR steel version that weighed a ton ! and cost a packet as well . HTSH

or even better do as i did on my old one and put rivnuts on the frame then you can just unscrew the 5 bar plate to do oil changes ect when I do this one I will post some pictures

I split the weld on my man tec guard but to be fare the weld was crap and they redone it when I took it back. The weld was lapped round the sides only and not in the v.

Anyone with a Jatco auto risks knocking oft the selector fing underneath when the standard LR guard plastic pushes through, when you belly the front.

If your making your own using the LR standard frame, have a look as this: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/858487-post10.html

If using checker plate put the smooth side towards the ground when fitted.

Hippo said:

I split the weld on my man tec guard but to be fare the weld was crap and they redone it when I took it back. The weld was lapped round the sides only and not in the v.

Anyone with a Jatco auto risks knocking oft the selector fing underneath when the standard LR guard plastic pushes through, when you belly the front.

If your making your own using the LR standard frame, have a look as this: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/858487-post10.html

If using checker plate put the smooth side towards the ground when fitted.

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That's pretty much one of my many ideas, but one piece, welded, not chequer plate and minimal fixings poking thru. I cannot believe that chequer plate won't act like a brake in deep ruts and other scrapey situations. I had thought about welding strips length ways to stiffen it up and to act like skids? It's a bit trial and error admittedly. I have an ally mig, friendly engineering shop with a folder, and a head full of ideas

Started having a play with mine at the weekend! Looking to put sides on first to bolt up under the chassis rails. Got some 3mm chequer plate for that, thinking 6mm sheet for the base


DD

my chequer plate or 5 bar as it is known is 6mm thick so should be stong enough

teddywood1 said:

my chequer plate or 5 bar as it is known is 6mm thick so should be stong enough

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8mm is bleedin expensive! And possibly overkill

Yo dawgs, how're the mafia - shorry insurance going to like this? They going to take issue with it? I'll tell 'em anyway but it would be a shame if they said no.

Lift and phat tyres are already verboten for me .

WLJayne said:

Yo dawgs, how're the mafia - shorry insurance going to like this? They going to take issue with it? I'll tell 'em anyway but it would be a shame if they said no.

Lift and phat tyres are already verboten for me .

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You been at the cooking sherry again?


DD

Diesel Do said:

You been at the cooking sherry again?

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No been at ze turbo cider mate :beer2:

The belly plate is mainly to smooth the airflow under the car hence it being plastic. Please also bear in mind that after the belly plate comes yr VCU so be careful what you are scrambling over