stuck shackle pin/axle paint advice

Finally got around to starting my spring swop.

doing the front pair 1st. Got everything off apart from the pin at the front. It seems to be flexing in the bush, so when i move the breaker bar, it winds back up again. I used a combo of undo/hold with mole grips, but It just seemed to wind up in the bush. I tried ****ing it with a hammer... nothing

are the chassis plates threaded? sounds like its siezed in the bush. anyone come across this?

As im doing the springs, seems like a good time to paint the axles as they are rusty. Was going to clean them up and just apply some chassis black paint, but should i use a primer/red oxide paint 1st? I dont have any right now, so that will delay things a little. what do people use/recomend? I thought just paint would be fine, but from reading around seems i should red oxide them 1st.

G

spring drop plates are threaded, however the stepped ends aren't - best thing is to grind off the bolt head and through the plate then weld a bar onto the stud thats left - heat the mounting so the remaining rubber goes soft and rotate the stud in circles while pulling outwards

basically the bolt just gets rusted to the inner sleeve of the bush

the real fun starts when you try getting the replacement bush back into the chassis

if you just paint over rust it'll come through within days/weeks - grind/scrape/brush as must of the rust off as you can - don't forget those gel rust removers for the hard to get at bits (or get it dipped) - then red oxide it - i then generally use Frosts Chassis Black - forget Hammerite it's way too brittle, although am sure there'll be some wise arse who'll come along to say Hammerite is the best thing since sliced bread

cheers sean.

just been out and taped the otherside, it moved out of the bush, so i kept ****ing the stuck one, but nothing. looks like grinder out tomorrow. just re-read your post. The chassis bush shackles came off no probs, its the pin holding the front of the front spring to the chassis thats the issue. like you said, its welded itself to the inner bush sleeve.

I was going to clean the axle back to metal and just use a tin of chassis black I have. But I will source some red oxide tomorrow morning, seems the best idea.

chassis bush out today happy with that, new one is in the freezer ready to fit tomorrow. any other tips for fitting a chassis bush? was going to use a long bolt and wind it in, nicely lubed

not worried about the bush in the spring as i have new springs with bushes in so happy to cut the front pin to remove the spring.

G

i don't think I've ever been able to remove the drop plates on any series without having to resorted to a bit of brute force - and drop plate are relativly cheap to replace and cutting them off saves so much hard work

when you put the new ones in - make sure the hole in the chassis is spotlessly clean and smear it with any kind of grease - measure the O/D of the new bush and if one end is even a mm smaller put a little chamfer on it to help ease it into the chassis hole (even if both ends are the same O/D put a chamfer on it) - a stud along with some heavy washers, nuts and an old socket are ideal for pulling it into position but make sure you pull it by bearing onto the outer bush sleeve as you''ll just separate the inner and outer if you put to much force on the inner

and fit genuine bushes if you can find them - they'll only last about 25 years longer than those new fancy poly ones

oh and coat the chassis with red as soon as you've cleaned the rust off or it'll be back within hours

yer, will be doing the chassis seperately. want to do the springs 1st and replace one of the windscreen glass sections then its ready for the MOT will jsut be a rolling restoration then, just tidy bits here and there, nothing major and not spending a fortune.

G

it's a tedius task but the end result is well worth it

fair play that looks tops.

my lightweight is called ****box because the underside of it is a mess! waxoil over paint, covered in rubber stuff with some silver spraypiant ontop for good measure! needs a strip back to bare chassis and start over.

the " drop plates", are those the bits at the front? if i cut them off, im going to have to weld them back on not got a welder yet.

G

i call them drop plates, think others will call them shackles - it's the 4 plates per set of springs that attach the spring to the chassis - the bits right at the front of the chassis that the springs attach to are the dumb irons, i wont be surprised if they fall apart in your hands

think this chassis was the same as yours, layers of paint, covering a good few holes - topped off with a nice thick coat of waxoyl - which in some places was structural - and it looked liked the landys last trip had been through a cement works on a wet day

the next one i do will be dunked in a big hot bath full of chemicals and left over night

ar, its the dumb irons i have my problem with then. the pin/bolt is stuck in the bush of the spring, between the dumb irons. cant get it out for toffee. the otherside is moving, but this side aint was thinking of getting a massive G clamp and trying that. left it lubed and under tension with a 2ft breaker bar tonight. see what happens tomorrow i guess.

G

this is where those 1mm cutting discs for the grinder come in handy - slice through bolt on the inside of the dumb iron sides, this will allow you to drop the spring down and out of the way - you might then be able to drift out the remenants of the bolt (while supporting the other side) - or just burn the bush rubber so you can pull or push the inner out - and using a hack saw blade put a slice in the outer sleeve that'll be left in then drift that out as well

Im just going to put the standard blade through it now or maybe i will get some at screwfix. going there now for some oxide paint.

G

didnt have any 1mm blades, so i put a 3mm through one side, took the shackle pin head off, hammered the spring over and put it through the other side. Spring off. cleaned the axle (should have worn overalls, I had to use fast orange in the shower) messy job innit?! sanded down to key surface, cleaned with parafin, 1 coat of red oxide all over upto the breather (will do o/s when i remove that spring).

got the new chassis bush in 3/4 of the way, mashed my washers up so gave up. will try tomorrow with some new bits.

Right questions:

should I paint the Diff nose/pinion or just the axle casing?
how many coats red oxide?
how many coats chassis black?

ta,

G

A fairly standard way of getting bushes and bolts out of hanger brackets aka dumb-irons is to grind flush the head off the bolt at one end, and the nut at the other, then lever the brackets apart JUST enough to let the bush slip out.

Last one I did (in about 1975!) I used an air hacksaw inside the bracket. I levered the brackets apart enough to let a hacky blade slip in oiled it up well with a spout can, and triggered the air-hacky to cut the bolt. You can cut it both sides, and the bush will just about drop out.

Air hacky works very fast so use a good fine sharp blade and plenty of oil.

CharlesY

not got access to fancy bits of kit like that Charles

Grinder worked fine for me. hacksawing by hand though

put 1 coat of red oxide on and 2 coats of chassis black on the axle, so thats looking better. left the diff nose/pinion bit and just done the caseing.

G

Griffdowg said:

not got access to fancy bits of kit like that Charles

Grinder worked fine for me. hacksawing by hand though

put 1 coat of red oxide on and 2 coats of chassis black on the axle, so thats looking better. left the diff nose/pinion bit and just done the caseing.

G

Click to expand...

For those Landyzoners who are not lateral-thinking perverts like me, there are four ways to fit a blade to a standard hacksaw frame. Think about it!

You may find it easier to cut through that bloody bolt if the loose blade is first fitted into the gap ABOVE the bolt (Inside the bracket) and then attached to the saw frame with the saw upside down UNDER the bracket. You can choose which way the teeth point.

Doing this means you are sawing DOWNWARDS all the time, which is a lot easier than upwards.

CharlesY

im not that stupid

CharlesY said:

For those Landyzoners who are not lateral-thinking perverts like me, there are four ways to fit a blade to a standard hacksaw frame. Think about it!

You may fine it easier to cut through that bloody bolt if the loose blade is first fitted into the gap ABOVE the bolt (Inside the bracket) and then attached to the saw frame. You can choose which way the teeth point.

Doing this means you are sawing DOWNWARDS all the time, which is a lot easier than upwards.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

If yu have one of those hacksaws with a square bolt type fitting at each, there are 16 different ways of fitting the blade, CharlesY.

Griffdowg said:

im not that stupid

Click to expand...

I think that calls for a poll

go put the urn on Si