Stoplock pro V Stoplock 4x4

Having browsed LZ and Ratty's security poll results I'm going to have a stoplock.
The stoplock pro claims 'attack tested', Thatcham CAT 3, hardened steel anti drill lock. It's Approx £50
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/5288786.htm#pdpFullDesc

The stoplock 4x4 just claims high grade steel and fits bigger steering wheels. It's under £30
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2798499.htm#pdpFullDesc

The stoplock pro sounds better and I'm happy to pay the money.
My steering wheel is standard 300Tdi. Do I need the 4x4 one?
I'm presuming they are the same manufacturer/company. Do you think they have used different materials and locks?
I can't understand the price difference unless the 4x4 one really is a cheap substandard version.
Anyone bought one and changed to the other?
(I hope this comparison hasn't been started before. Can't find the thread if it has, so please point me in the right direction if I'm repeating)

I would say both are equally crap, one hacksaw cut to the wheel and they are off.
I wonder what they attack tested them with? a hamster.

lynall said:

I would say both are equally crap, one hacksaw cut to the wheel and they are off.
I wonder what they attack tested them with? a hamster.

Click to expand...

Never thought of that! Thatcham obviously didn't either!
You can hacksaw through pedals pretty quickly too, come to think of it.

Al2O3 said:

Never thought of that! Thatcham obviously didn't either!
You can hacksaw through pedals pretty quickly too, come to think of it.

Click to expand...

Battery tools have a lot to answer for ...

Dippypud said:

Battery tools have a lot to answer for ...

Click to expand...

So do the thieves

Al2O3 said:

So do the thieves

Click to expand...

Saves them having to think it out tho ...

I've done a bit more research. The hamster takes a little over 5 minutes to defeat the stoplock pro. That's cos it forces two steering wheel cuts

I would bet a cordless grinder with a 1mm slitting disc would take 10 seconds max to do two cuts.
Any steering wheel stoplock job needs to be the full disc version and even then they need modding with a bit of welding, plenty of info out there.

I don't think too many products will stop determined thieves. With that in mind my strategy is to use a few 'obvious' things that will take time to move and will generally slow down the opportunist thief and hopefully make him go elsewhere ..

Mind, the state of my 90, most thieves will probably pass it by anyway ..

Paul D said:

Mind, the state of my 90, most thieves will probably pass it by anyway ..

Click to expand...

Mine's all shiny and new looking So probably attractive to the thieving human magpies

If a stop lock is no good because it can be defeated by a single cut with a battery grinder and a slitting disc then so are the ones cover the whole steering wheel, cut through the lock or hinge and it's off.

waldershelf said:

If a stop lock is no good because it can be defeated by a single cut with a battery grinder and a slitting disc then so are the ones cover the whole steering wheel, cut through the lock or hinge and it's off.

Click to expand...

Disklock wraps around the wheel and you can weld a plate on the back so it's impossible to prize off

Pedal locks such as Clutch Claw are harder to attack, l have a disc lock and pedal lock.
You can only do the best that you can. Thieves can just winch the Landy on to a recovery truck.
Leaving the steering on full lock can help but apparantly the thieves disconnect the steering column U/J to get around this.
But a disc lock, pedal lock, steering wheel lock, steering left on full lock and anything else you can think if, will slow the opportunist and on foot scumbags. It means they will need tools, and will have to make a noise.
So may pass yours by hopefully.

waldershelf said:

If a stop lock is no good because it can be defeated by a single cut with a battery grinder and a slitting disc then so are the ones cover the whole steering wheel, cut through the lock or hinge and it's off.

Click to expand...

Yes but they will make one hell of a racket as you are cutting exposed steel, with the steering wheel cutting though thin steel wire encased in rubber wont be to noisy at all.

My rebuild is costing me a lot, not only in terms of money but in time and a huge amount of effort. That's why a big part of the spend is going to go on security. Disclock (I have one on every car), pedal lock, ignition barrel lock, alarm, tracker and probably those tree slider things that slide forward and physically stop the front doors being opened.

If I could wire the door handles up to the mains overnight I'd do that as well.

Thinking about it, can you still get those garage door devices that fire a blank shotgun cartridge should the door be opened......? Hmmm, now there's an idea.

I've watched the video on the disklok website. It rotates on the steering wheel, but doesn't have much of a back, Can you not wrap your fingers far enough around to grip the wheel and still steer?

I have some visible and hidden stuff on mine, but I've stopped worrying about adding extra and just make sure my agreed value is up to date.

v8landyman said:

I have some visible and hidden stuff on mine, but I've stopped worrying about adding extra and just make sure my agreed value is up to date.

Click to expand...

Absolutely .. and make sure any additions are notified to the insco.