still cant find the origin of the clunk!!!

What's the rock test? op2:

Hippo said:

What's the rock test? op2:

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Unwrap it, take a bite. If it's sticky, soft and gooey its old and buggered. If it's not sticky and goes crunch, it's still good.








































And for the A frame ball joint......

rock the landy back and forward with the handbrake on while laying underneath it ( I can usually do this with my foot) and watch and listen for play. If you get a second pair of hands then you can try and rock the wheels side to side as if yer checking for play in the wheel bearing too while watching and listening to the a fram ball joint.

I've said this in another thread but it might bear repeating. Mine used to do this a lot but has been much quieter since I fitted new hub drive flanges. As the splined shafts are a fairly small diameter and at the very end of all the gear reduction, a tiny bit of wear will translate into a lot of clunk.

Brown said:

I've said this in another thread but it might bear repeating. Mine used to do this a lot but has been much quieter since I fitted new hub drive flanges. As the splined shafts are a fairly small diameter and at the very end of all the gear reduction, a tiny bit of wear will translate into a lot of clunk.

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You are correct. Usually, if this is the case, by putting it into difflock will lessen the knock. As the knock is as bad with the difflock in I rekon it's unlikely unless all of the flanges/shafts are buggered.

ratty said:

You are correct. Usually, if this is the case, by putting it into difflock will lessen the knock. As the knock is as bad with the difflock in I rekon it's unlikely unless all of the flanges/shafts are buggered.

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Changed my rear ones and got rid of about 75% of the clunk. I was so pleased I bought some from the front and got rid of most of what was left. interestingly it seemed to be the flanges themselves that were worn and the halfshafts were in pretty good condition. I was also buying bits to begin the replacement of my rear suspension balljoint and bushes, but that's less of a priority job now as all seems quiet for the time being. Well, as quiet as it gets in a land Rover.

well lads,

After doing all the above tests for various areas of play, and after talking to a much more Land Rover clued in friend of mine, we decided it had to be the diff in the T/box that was causing all the hassle.
So stripped out the old one and replaced with a disco t/box which had been rebuilt.

Clunking is still there!! its definitely not the aframe, drive flanges, t/box, props or uj's and all bushings and suspension parts are less than a year old.

any suggestions? as im running out of ideas!!

Might I suggest dropping the rear prop off, removing the handbrake drum and checking the shoes and output for fit and play? They could be sticking on and releasing only when they realise stopping a Defender is a useless way to carry on and they aren't actually up to it!

Live with it.. Unless the replacement Transfer box was a brand new unit. there's every reason to believe that it'll be worn as much as the old one was.

Try driving it a bit gentler. you'll be surprised how much of the clonk disappears with a little bt of thought and foot controll.

Drive flanges And splines on the half shafts if they're worn that would cause alot of transmission shunt

Lads, had another look underneath today and noticed the T/Box mount bushing was totally seperated from the plate that bolts to the t/box side!

could this cause the issues??

Could it be a problem in your ankle? Maybe when you push your foot down to accelerate, your ankle is clunking? Or perhaps its a clunk in your wrist when changing gear?


Dont worry, Im getting my coat...

-Defender110- said:

Lads, had another look underneath today and noticed the T/Box mount bushing was totally seperated from the plate that bolts to the t/box side!

could this cause the issues??

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Yes ...