Steering wheel removal

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jacko996

New Member
Posts
23
Hi

How difficult is it to remove the steering wheel on a p38 with airbag etc.

Need to change some of the buttons

Cheers
Dave
 
Make sure you follow RAVE and disconnect the battery then leave it for half an hour to let the residual charge in the SRS DCU dissipate. Also make sure you have your EKA code and Radio code before you start.
 
No 1 prob is yer gonna have to disconnect the battery (to stop the airbag givin you two black eyes)

LOVE the avatar BTW ..... S.I.G. Capt Dave!!!



Ha Ha LOL

No probs disconnecting battery, anything else I need to know, or will this deffo stop the bag going off??

Wheres Penelope then :D
 
Make sure you follow RAVE and disconnect the battery then leave it for half an hour to let the residual charge in the SRS DCU dissipate. Also make sure you have your EKA code and Radio code before you start.

Thanks for the advice

Whats the EKA code?

Cheers Dave
 
Ha Ha LOL

No probs disconnecting battery, anything else I need to know, or will this deffo stop the bag going off??

Wheres Penelope then :D

The mrs is Penelope Dave ...... That how I got "tagged" as the Hooded Claw Years ago I bought her an MGF (in PINK!!!) as it was a K series engine it ALWAYS broke down & I ended up "Chasing her" around fixin the damn thing

She Looked like Penelope Pitstop (in her PINK!!! car) & I Chased her about ...hence "the Hooded Claw" .....


BTW ..I have a loverly model of the "Zero X" on me desk (Along with a "Studio replica" of Eagle 1 (from Space 1999) ...
 
Emergency Key Access code. If you haven't got it get it before you start. You can get it free from a stealer with your log book and I.D. You are sure to need it at some point:D

Ahh bugger

I dont have it and need to swap the battery over

Will I be able to still start it after I change it?
 
Ahh bugger

I dont have it and need to swap the battery over

Will I be able to still start it after I change it?

You'll need a 2nd battery, or a boost pack. or some other 12v Power source besides the main battery.

Step 1 - Find your battery

Step 2 - Set up your secondary power source

* If using a booster/jump pack; Find a stable location in the engine bay in which to site the jump pack where the leads can easily reach the battery terminals. Now clamp the crocodile clips of the booster pack over the leads that connect to the battery. Do not let the two crocodile clips touch each other! Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery. If your booster pack has a power switch ensure that it is switched on.

* If using a 12 volt battery and a set of jump leads; Place your 12 volt auxiliary battery on the floor next to the vehicle and connect the jump leads to the auxiliary battery. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal and the black lead to the negative terminal. Do not let the crocodile clips at the opposite end of the cable touch each other! Now clamp the crocodile clips at the other end of the jump leads over the leads that connect to the battery. Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery.



Step 3 - Remove clamp holding your battery in place
Look at your current battery to find out how it is being physically held in place. In many cases there will be a clamp at the base of the battery holding it to the floor pan. In other cases there may be a clamp across the top of the battery holding it in place. Once you have worked out how the battery is being held in place, use your socket set to loosen the bolt(s) on the clamp and remove the clamp.

Step 4 - Remove your old battery
Now that your battery is no longer physically held in place we need to remove the leads from the battery and remove the battery. Locate the bolts on the battery leads that are holding the clamps onto the battery terminals. Using your socket set, loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Now, here comes the important bit... One at a time, starting with the negative lead, remove the leads from your current battery whilst ensuring that the crocodile clips from your auxiliary power source remain connected. Once the leads are free from the battery, remove the old battery from the vehicle. Your auxiliary power source is now supplying the power to your car until we connect the new battery.

Step 5 - Connect your new battery
Without knocking the leads currently being supplied by the auxiliary power source, lower your new battery into place. Now connect the leads onto the new battery - ensuring that you first connect the red to the positive terminal and then the black to the negative terminal. Be careful that you don't knock the crocodile clips off the leads as you maneuver them onto the new battery. Now tighten the bolts on the clamps to hold them firmly in place. You can now safely remove your auxiliary power source by disconnecting the crocodile clips
 
The mrs is Penelope Dave ...... That how I got "tagged" as the Hooded Claw Years ago I bought her an MGF (in PINK!!!) as it was a K series engine it ALWAYS broke down & I ended up "Chasing her" around fixin the damn thing

She Looked like Penelope Pitstop (in her PINK!!! car) & I Chased her about ...hence "the Hooded Claw" .....


BTW ..I have a loverly model of the "Zero X" on me desk (Along with a "Studio replica" of Eagle 1 (from Space 1999) ...



Love the old sci fi stuff :cool2:

LOL at the Pink MGF :hysterically_laughi
 
All good advice not wanting to tempt fate but I have disconnected /flattened the battery more times than I can remember and have been so lucky as never had to do anything other than reset windows and radio - you watch next time big lock out
 
Also you say you are going to change some buttons you need to replace the whole ribbon and make sure that you get the right one depending on which radio you have
 
i would just wait and get down your local land rover stealer and ask for the eka code, it doesnt cost anything. do make sure you take your log book and some other id.
 
Maybe I was lucky but i replaced my wheel without disconnecting the battery. I removed the fuses for airbag (23) and horn (41 - to avoid annoying the neighbours). I also disconnected the airbag power connecter behind the rh lower trim panel.

The nearest I had to a problem was replacing the little ribbon retaining screws which apparently are meant to be one-use only. Luckily my never chuck it out policy means I had some suitable small computer casing screws which tapped into the soft alloy.
 
You'll need a 2nd battery, or a boost pack. or some other 12v Power source besides the main battery.

Step 1 - Find your battery

Step 2 - Set up your secondary power source

* If using a booster/jump pack; Find a stable location in the engine bay in which to site the jump pack where the leads can easily reach the battery terminals. Now clamp the crocodile clips of the booster pack over the leads that connect to the battery. Do not let the two crocodile clips touch each other! Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery. If your booster pack has a power switch ensure that it is switched on.

* If using a 12 volt battery and a set of jump leads; Place your 12 volt auxiliary battery on the floor next to the vehicle and connect the jump leads to the auxiliary battery. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal and the black lead to the negative terminal. Do not let the crocodile clips at the opposite end of the cable touch each other! Now clamp the crocodile clips at the other end of the jump leads over the leads that connect to the battery. Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery.



Step 3 - Remove clamp holding your battery in place
Look at your current battery to find out how it is being physically held in place. In many cases there will be a clamp at the base of the battery holding it to the floor pan. In other cases there may be a clamp across the top of the battery holding it in place. Once you have worked out how the battery is being held in place, use your socket set to loosen the bolt(s) on the clamp and remove the clamp.

Step 4 - Remove your old battery
Now that your battery is no longer physically held in place we need to remove the leads from the battery and remove the battery. Locate the bolts on the battery leads that are holding the clamps onto the battery terminals. Using your socket set, loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Now, here comes the important bit... One at a time, starting with the negative lead, remove the leads from your current battery whilst ensuring that the crocodile clips from your auxiliary power source remain connected. Once the leads are free from the battery, remove the old battery from the vehicle. Your auxiliary power source is now supplying the power to your car until we connect the new battery.

Step 5 - Connect your new battery
Without knocking the leads currently being supplied by the auxiliary power source, lower your new battery into place. Now connect the leads onto the new battery - ensuring that you first connect the red to the positive terminal and then the black to the negative terminal. Be careful that you don't knock the crocodile clips off the leads as you maneuver them onto the new battery. Now tighten the bolts on the clamps to hold them firmly in place. You can now safely remove your auxiliary power source by disconnecting the crocodile clips


Thanks chaps for the great info :clap2:

Did as above and all was going smoothly until I knocked one of the crockodile clips off :frusty:

Good news the car still starts etc, but the key fob wont lock/unlock the car, but the key is fine :confused:

I guess this needs re programming :confused:
 
You'll need a 2nd battery, or a boost pack. or some other 12v Power source besides the main battery.

Step 1 - Find your battery

Step 2 - Set up your secondary power source

* If using a booster/jump pack; Find a stable location in the engine bay in which to site the jump pack where the leads can easily reach the battery terminals. Now clamp the crocodile clips of the booster pack over the leads that connect to the battery. Do not let the two crocodile clips touch each other! Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery. If your booster pack has a power switch ensure that it is switched on.

* If using a 12 volt battery and a set of jump leads; Place your 12 volt auxiliary battery on the floor next to the vehicle and connect the jump leads to the auxiliary battery. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal and the black lead to the negative terminal. Do not let the crocodile clips at the opposite end of the cable touch each other! Now clamp the crocodile clips at the other end of the jump leads over the leads that connect to the battery. Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery.



Step 3 - Remove clamp holding your battery in place
Look at your current battery to find out how it is being physically held in place. In many cases there will be a clamp at the base of the battery holding it to the floor pan. In other cases there may be a clamp across the top of the battery holding it in place. Once you have worked out how the battery is being held in place, use your socket set to loosen the bolt(s) on the clamp and remove the clamp.

Step 4 - Remove your old battery
Now that your battery is no longer physically held in place we need to remove the leads from the battery and remove the battery. Locate the bolts on the battery leads that are holding the clamps onto the battery terminals. Using your socket set, loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Now, here comes the important bit... One at a time, starting with the negative lead, remove the leads from your current battery whilst ensuring that the crocodile clips from your auxiliary power source remain connected. Once the leads are free from the battery, remove the old battery from the vehicle. Your auxiliary power source is now supplying the power to your car until we connect the new battery.

Step 5 - Connect your new battery
Without knocking the leads currently being supplied by the auxiliary power source, lower your new battery into place. Now connect the leads onto the new battery - ensuring that you first connect the red to the positive terminal and then the black to the negative terminal. Be careful that you don't knock the crocodile clips off the leads as you maneuver them onto the new battery. Now tighten the bolts on the clamps to hold them firmly in place. You can now safely remove your auxiliary power source by disconnecting the crocodile clips

Someone should "STICKY" that at the top of the section (the amount of times Members have written that out is unbelievable) ....

CLASS Redhand BEST explanation of that I've seen in ages !!!!
 
May I make a couple of suggestions.....
1) connect the black leads to the engine and not the battery clamp - that way you dont have to fight with two battery terminals with croc clips on them - only one.
2) always remove the -ve terminal first and connect it last.
3) use generous quantities of "coppaslip" or Vaseline on both battery terminals prior to fitting clamp back on to new battery.

Lastly - it is a lot easier with 2 peeps - one to look after the leads and the other to move the battery.
 
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