L322 Steering wheel adjustment broken

I've got rave on my laptop so I'll have a look

It's quite involved to remove the complete column but not sure how far you have to go in to get to the broken part

I asked about firing the part on eBay and they came back with around £200 plus the £225 for the part. Said it was a 2 hour job to remover the column and a 4 hour job in total. Less than I expected in time and money

I suppose it depends on your location as to whether you can get them to do it, see what rave reads like, there isn't much you can't do to an L322 on your drive, but 4 hours when you know what to do can quite easily become 10 hours when you do it the first time

Yeah that was my thought to be honest. Also I got a block of nylon that I can use for my bodge. So thinking I might do that and if/when it fails think about sorting it out the expensive way

I'm quite partial to a bodge, steel putty is pretty good, i like the quiksteel

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quiksteel...923104?hash=item41afb7a7e0:g:47QAAOSwBadTqYqw

Buy some and have a play with it, see what sort of shapes you can make and how strong they are, easy to bond to existing material too

Might be worth a go. I've ordered some so we'll see how it goes

just make nice rounded corners to help with the strength

hello
sorry to barge in
I don`t want to start new thread as your discussion is so close to my issue ---while the metal tabs and brass block are just fine the threaded bolt seems to get stuck when activate the leaver ,i suspect the lock-nut assembly on the right hand side in photo -not sure if is got bearings inside --i`l remove and check ,,hoping you guys have a bit more knowledge about this ...

I don't know is my answer, i think it would be a case of taking it apart and seeing where it is getting stuck as it could be a damaged thread inside the brass block or a bent lead screw or as you say a bearing in the end support or even a problem with the motor.
Can you take the lead screw out by undoing the bearing carrier bolts shown in the first pic?

It'll be the lock nut at the end I imagine. It's another known fault if the lever doesn't get released immediately. Just undo the lock nut a turn and see if that helps

Hi
Thanks for your sugestions -i completly taken the assembly apart
- berings are just fine ,indeed having the lock nut too tight will jam the system --properly adjusted now
- threded bolt is fine
- brass block is fine
All back togheter and nothing
Motor is buzing but unable to move the wheel
Motor spins nicely when free from assembly but now i'm thinking it should be stronger -- maybe is partly burned ?how do i check ?i magine is quite expensive it i go about replacement +not sure if is faulty or not
Many thanks for your interest and answers ...

have you read this ?
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/steering/tilt3.html

Possibly of no help but the motor on mine isn't what I'd call powerful, when I did my bodge I could turn the worm drive by hand through the block and my threaded piece of metal but when I connected it up the motor needed my assistance for the first few motions.
Maybe a squirt of wd40 and a little assistance might help to free it up. There are no bearings in the assembly that I have seen, it's a simple enough mechanism.

well you are both passing the test of range rover ownership with flying colours, they are a damn expensive hobby if you don't get in and take it apart yourself and besides, that's where the fun part is, sod driving them, too damn expensive

I fixed mine too. Check the Range Rover Mods'n'Fixes thread.

This will sounds like a stupid question but where do I find the mods n fixes pages?

It was a thread that Bitnix started
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/posts/3780549/