Steering Problem Symptoms Advice

can be a sign studs and nuts need replacing

Hicap phill said:

While mine is in the mot ramp I turn the kettle on.
When wheels are in the air I shout tea up. Get the tools & check stuff before the tea has cooled enough for him to continue. I/they have never took wheels off just checked bearing,pads & grease nipples.
O I have a 3ft breaker bar.
No requirement to remove wheels.

As for the keg.it does not need to turn off?

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Wasn't the MOT chap who last put them on then. Must have been the place I bought the tyres from. Haven't had them long.

jamesmartin said:

can be a sign studs and nuts need replacing

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Do you not think they might have just been over tightened?

Al2O3 said:

Do you not think they might have just been over tightened?

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more than likely ,but if you do them correct and later are ok to undo youll know which

Hicap phill said:

As for the keg.it does not need to turn off?

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Bloody thing snapped in the on position, so there was a moment of panic while I tried to turn it off

jamesmartin said:

more than likely ,but if you do them correct and later are ok to undo youll know which

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Good point. Do the threads just get rough and so friction increases?

Al2O3 said:

Good point. Do the threads just get rough and so friction increases?

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that and stretch perhaps, im not 100% its just something i find in practice, a local farmer has 2 110s both get the same wheel nut tightening one takes a 6 foot bar the other a std bar

jamesmartin said:

that and stretch perhaps, im not 100% its just something i find in practice, a local farmer has 2 110s both get the same wheel nut tightening one takes a 6 foot bar the other a std bar

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What's used to tighten them?

Al2O3 said:

What's used to tighten them?

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same torque wrench

jamesmartin said:

same torque wrench

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Aye, thought you'd say that. Wouldn't mind changing them. Especially the nuts as they have those chrome covers on and they are a PITA

Al2O3 said:

Aye, thought you'd say that. Wouldn't mind changing them. Especially the nuts as they have those chrome covers on and they are a PITA

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might just be over tightening, next time you undo them will show

Thought I'd do a quick update on my brake feedback as I've been busy and neglected the Landy a bit
I've been around each wheel nipping the wheel bearings up a few times, but brakes still feeding back through the pedal.
Anyway, had a free day largely today so decided to start on the front wheel bearings and swivel pin bearings. One of the caliper bolts on the offside is starting to round, so I've done the nearside today. It's weird, but the wheel bearings and swivel bearings on this side seemed ok, but the difference with the new ones in was very noticeable. Just smoother and more 'solid'. Also, the new wheel bearing seemed much easier to adjust
Took it for a spin and still feed back through the pedal. Not to worry, I've got all the gear to do the same on the other side and I'll get bearings for the back too. Interestingly, after one day adjusting the rear bearings I took it for a spin, got half a mile out of the village doing about fifty and braked to take a left junction. Brakes were great! Drove the loop back around to the village and braking as I came back in to 30 zone the feedback returned. Hopefully, when I've done all corners the problems will go away.

A squirt of plusgas or similar will help wheel nuts let go.

Thought I'd update this as I've finally got the offside wheel bearings and pivot bearings done.
The play in the steering was largely due to the drop arm ball joint. That got sorted weeks ago.
The nearside had a little play in the wheel bearing, but no noise or anything. Decided to replace them and pivot bearings while I was on.
However, what I reckon was bouncing the brake pedal was a stuck brake pad! I reckon the inside pad was seized on the pins. Both pins were incredibly tight to get out and I was on for ages. Initially I thought the replacement stainless pistons had seized, but once I got the pads out the pistons pushed back dead easy So I reckon the pad was wedged and seized stuck. I suspect the disc must have been pushed across and so pushing the seized pad slightly back. Possible the disc has been flexing and giving feed back through the pedal. I've replaced the pads and pins. On the test drive it was hugely better. A tiny bit of feel through the pedal, but nothing like before. Perhaps the disc is slightly deformed.
Thought I'd update the thread as this is a new one on me. And I'm crackin on a bit