Steering lock broken

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payydg

payydg

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,932
Location
Aberdeenshire
My steering lock has broken. Well it's never worked.

How easy is it to replace the mechanism? It is there a common fault that's easy to fix?

I've taken the outer case off and it looks like a nightmare to get at the inner workings of the ignition barrel and column lock.
 
payydg said:
My steering lock has broken. Well it's never worked.

How easy is it to replace the mechanism? It is there a common fault that's easy to fix?

I've taken the outer case off and it looks like a nightmare to get at the inner workings of the ignition barrel and column lock.
Click to expand...
You need a new lock, chisel the security bolt heads round to undo them or drill out. The bit with the wires on at the bottom is a separate part held on by 2 screws, you don't need that bit.
Petrol and diesel switches are different so get the right one.
 
Flossie said:
You need a new lock, chisel the security bolt heads round to undo them or drill out. The bit with the wires on at the bottom is a separate part held on by 2 screws, you don't need that bit.
Petrol and diesel switches are different so get the right one.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. Where abouts are the security bolts? Do you need to swap over he ignition barrel?
 
The bolts have no heads (they are designed to snap off during assembly) there are two clamping the switch to the column.
The new switch,with keys, comes complete, you just need to swop over the electrical part, the bit held on with the two little screws as I mentioned.
I can't remember what access is like for getting those security bolts out though, I did mine 14 yrs ago.
 
payydg said:
Ok, thanks. Where abouts are the security bolts? Do you need to swap over he ignition barrel?
Click to expand...
The security bolts clamp the ignition barrel to the column.
IMG_5223_zps62f66632.jpg

This is mine once I got it off the column. It will probably be more of a faff on for you as my steering column was off the vehicle.
You can just make out the slots I cut in to the ends of the bolts. IIRC they must have had heads that sheared off when tightened to just leave a blunt end.
I found the metal to be quite soft, so it was very easy to 'score' a groove in them. I improvised with a stanley knife, small screw driver etc. Once I had enough of a groove to get a flat blade screwdriver in they came undone quite easily. I might have been lucky there, but they weren't that tight.
 
Also, there is a high security switch made by some company I can't recall which may be worth considering?
More expensive though.
 
AL203 has his thumb where the screws are that hold the electrical part on that you need to swop over.
Make a note of which wire goes where, there are numbers moulded in the plastic to assist with that.
 
You guys are bloody marvellous!

Thanks very much. If you remember the name of the company that makes high security switches let me know
 
??, The lock ( either your original one or the x Eng one) will have a piece of metal in the switch that locates into a hole stopping the steering wheel from rotating. It's bust or faulty on your original switch, the new switch has the busted or faulty part built in regardless if it's an original or high security one.
Just change it and your troubles will be over.:)
 
I'll replace the whole switch as you guys suggested. The X-eng one is a machined piece of metal that goes over your switch to prevent someone breaking the steering lock or getting at the ignition barrel. Didn't think there was much point fitting it if my lock was broken anyhow
 
payydg said:
I'll replace the whole switch as you guys suggested. The X-eng one is a machined piece of metal that goes over your switch to prevent someone breaking the steering lock or getting at the ignition barrel. Didn't think there was much point fitting it if my lock was broken anyhow
Click to expand...
The metal of the bolts is obviously soft to allow the heads to shear off. I don't think you'll have much trouble getting them out, just awkward when in situ. The electrical terminals in the end are close together, tricky to see at the angle the barrel is at and so easily mixed up. Take a careful note of which terminals go where when you take them off.
 
payydg said:
I'll replace the whole switch as you guys suggested. The X-eng one is a machined piece of metal that goes over your switch to prevent someone breaking the steering lock or getting at the ignition barrel. Didn't think there was much point fitting it if my lock was broken anyhow
Click to expand...
Oh! Ok..,.
I thought it was a whole new ign switch, my bad.. sorry.
So, yes, new ign switch then and fit the x Eng doo dah thing at the same time.
 
Just fitted a new ignition/steering lock on a citroen, pain in the arse to get at the remains of the snap off bolts but I eventually gave each one a sharp tap with a long punch to start it turning and then they came out easily by finger tip pressure. replaced them with allen caps as it was much easier for access, my thoughts were that if someone was bothering to take the dash apart to take them out then the vehicle was a loss anyway. Apart from that what tealeaf is going to bother trying to strip out the barrel housing ? they'll just try to snap off the steering lock by turning the wheel.
 
frog hopper said:
Just fitted a new ignition/steering lock on a citroen, pain in the arse to get at the remains of the snap off bolts but I eventually gave each one a sharp tap with a long punch to start it turning and then they came out easily by finger tip pressure. replaced them with allen caps as it was much easier for access, my thoughts were that if someone was bothering to take the dash apart to take them out then the vehicle was a loss anyway. Apart from that what tealeaf is going to bother trying to strip out the barrel housing ? they'll just try to snap off the steering lock by turning the wheel.
Click to expand...

That's a fair point. The question is how frequently is the ignition barrel attacked in order to start the car.
 
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