Steering box drop arm nightmare

Hi everyone I am having a mare at the min just desperate to get my 90 back on the road I need to replace the drop arm due to ball joint excessive play
So new arm has arrived and out comes the puller and nothing it's not moving so I got my blow torch out and still nothing so I am after another idea to try another method please cheers mike

i had to cut mine off with the grinder

Bloody hell I hope I don't have to do that but at this Rate it might be the only option did you do that in situ or did you remove the box?

large drift like old half shaft and large hammer ,hitting side of arm will eventually break the taper holding it

Cut mine off too, you can just replace the joint without taking the arm off, plenty of info on here. If you do replace the arm make sure you put plenty of copper slip on, then next time it will be easier. Good luck .

Cheers for the help I will try the drift first in the morning that will cheer the neighbours up and I will let you no how I get on tomorrow cheers mike

Michufc said:

Cheers for the help I will try the drift first in the morning that will cheer the neighbours up and I will let you no how I get on tomorrow cheers mike

Click to expand...

that is with puller on as well,with o/s wheel off ,allways works for me and i do 1 a week at least

Ok mate will do cheers for your help

angle grinder does work - cut vertically with a thin disc being careful not to damage the splines

Think there's a Buster thread on here with pics


Found it!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drop-arm-ball-joint-renewal-63811.html

thas how i did mine, i cut the arm off first to give a bit more wiggle room, then a thin cutting disc down the side, cold chisel in to upen it up and it dropped off.

Last time i did mine the arm fell off. I was all smiles

I've only managed one with a hydraulic puller and a hammer on a bench haha I usually just replace the ball joint as long as there is no play in the splines

Station House said:

angle grinder does work - cut vertically with a thin disc being careful not to damage the splines

Think there's a Buster thread on here with pics


Found it!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drop-arm-ball-joint-renewal-63811.html

Click to expand...

but is bodgers way

i use a very long cold chisel on the flange rite at the back of the drop arm hit it with a big hammer and it should fall off

Just tried big hammer and chisel with the puller attached its just not moved.
I think it's time for the angle grinder but I think it won't go down to well with the neighbours if I did it now :hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi

obviously not hard or long enough

Brilliant thread added above by Station House....Thank you as this is my project for the weekend!!

As already mentioned, if it's just the ball joint - just replace the ball joint. Bit award, but not difficult. And don't bother with anything but a genuine kit.

zeaphod said:

As already mentioned, if it's just the ball joint - just replace the ball joint. Bit award, but not difficult. And don't bother with anything but a genuine kit.

Click to expand...

Agree. Done it twice now and quite a straightforward job, even without the fancy tool that you can buy...a G-clamp works just fine.
I see that the OP was using a blowlamp. I might be wrong but I recall that this isn't a good idea as it can k*acker the seals in the steering box.

ogb said:

Agree. Done it twice now and quite a straightforward job, even without the fancy tool that you can buy...a G-clamp works just fine.
I see that the OP was using a blowlamp. I might be wrong but I recall that this isn't a good idea as it can k*acker the seals in the steering box.

Click to expand...

I've always thought heat and any suspension or steering components don't mix