Steep learning curve

resto_d1 said:

Completely dead I couldn't even save back plates. My worry now is getting the mount in correctly. I'm hoping to remake it to be same dims and measure distance from end of chassis to its top corner. Once I tack in place I can then compare....

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I would have left the mount in and bolted the rear cross member to it and then welded the rear crosser on, tacked a spacer in between the crosser and chassis rear cross member and then jacked it up solid to cut off the body mount outrigger. All you need do then is to lower the body back down and as long as the bolt goes through into the bushings then it is in the right place

dieseldog69 said:

I would have left the mount in and bolted the rear cross member to it and then welded the rear crosser on, tacked a spacer in between the crosser and chassis rear cross member and then jacked it up solid to cut off the body mount outrigger. All you need do then is to lower the body back down and as long as the bolt goes through into the bushings then it is in the right place

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Yes. I got happy with grinder. I think i can rescue it, just made it a bit trickier for myself

resto_d1 said:

Yes. I got happy with grinder. I think i can rescue it, just made it a bit trickier for myself

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Och, I've done far worse lol

The Mad Hat Man said:

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No datums, pulled the tub and sold it, week later I lopped off the rear cross member of a Series 3 and more rust in bite size chunks until I found decent metal, then it dawned on me that I now had no idea where it was supposed to go, pre internet too so no easy found answer just a new friend found in the parts department at Lindacre Land Rover who helped me out with a print off of the chassis dimensions.

I'm going to try and make it same dims as other side as have the skeleton of it left. Will update in course

That's it for today! Sick of the noise and heat

Great work! That amount of bodywork alignment would give me brain-melt. You're tackling it like a legend!

This is where yu decide.... “feck it, I am taking the body off to do the job proper”

LincolnSteve said:

Great work! That amount of bodywork alignment would give me brain-melt. You're tackling it like a legend!

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Cheers Steve I wouldn't have even done it without the people in this thread helping. The alignment is a scary thing. The spring seat was trickiest but I think it's bang on placement. This is diffficult as I should've left until crossmember was attached to body. My thinking is I can measure off end of chassis to hole centre. I'll just tack first, if it doesn't go I'll lower back down and adjust to suit. You'd make a tidier job of it than me! This time last year I couldn't run a nice bead so the project is definitely schooling me haha

The Mad Hat Man said:

This is where yu decide.... “feck it, I am taking the body off to do the job proper”

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If it was at the farm I would for sure. Lack of room here. Fucck all body on it anyways lol

resto_d1 said:

. Fucck all body on it anyways lol

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Now .

Getting there, you need need one of them sparkly golden beverages now

Need need? Hic!

I rewarded myself with a ladder, fence post, hedge trimmer and 30kg of postcrete

resto_d1 said:

I rewarded myself with a ladder, fence post, hedge trimmer and 30kg of postcrete

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Some reward that is but what ever floats your boat

What is the rest of the chassis like on the passenger side now you're on that side?

dieseldog69 said:

Some reward that is but what ever floats your boat

What is the rest of the chassis like on the passenger side now you're on that side?

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I've done both sides mate I just left these two repairs one so I could line up a new tank strap with tank in and two cos I needed outrigger off to do the mount one. Chassis welding is 90% complete. There's a little scab near front radius arm but don't think it's bad

Not so many pics as wanted to just smash through it. I had two patches to do as previously shown, one was under the tank strap and rotted out the other being under the rigger. For once I had to make sure I had it flush and pretty and to spec to make sure I could get my mount accurate. I cleaned up inside of chassis and welded my plates in. I then flappied it flush and measured up. Tacked in place and measured again before running beads. At first I thought I was out then remembered the location hole was a couple out in first place. All popped in perfectly once I chopped that hole

Make sure the door pin sits proud, otherwise you wont be able to use it. I had to weld a washer on the top of the pin on mine.

Smashing work there young man

Seems the nice weather has inspired us all to get the tools out and crack on with a bit of spannering

Soon be on to the front end and then a bit of engine work and she's done