Steep learning curve

So AA mates to BB and CC mates to DD. The chassis side from DD behind outrigger and down to trailing mount might be beyond repair. I'll still do CC to DD as if it isn't sacrificial and go from there. You think that will cover It? I'll redo the lid too using the outer corner welds as you posted above.

Spots only at outrigger end - then I can drill out when I remove trailing arm and butt back into the backing strap.

And a little theory to it. Note - requires little special skill lol.

Bit like joggling
Gives you a rear strip & the gap can vary.

Hicap phill said:

Bit like joggling
Gives you a rear strip & the gap can vary.

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Going to cut a few 2 inch pieces of off cuts to try out and try and destroy before applying. Such a simple idea that will take away my worry as to weather I'm digging in enough without worry of blowing through

Another tip....
Joggel 1 side then put the odd hole in the other piece of metal for plug welds.
I'm glad I don't weld no more.

Well, ripped the section I just did out. When I cut carefully to remove the 2mm and not the three, I realised my weld had made contact with the 3mm Lol.

I then spent the next hour ripping put a repair that worked

But, I had doubts and it's better to clarify than be wondering if the repair was man enough. The repair also wasn't particularly aesthetic and I'm sure I could do a touch better. So. I cursed, cut, pryed and got it out. I supported each side first on jacks.

Here is what we have. The rear join was sat on top of the end of the 3mm. Next time I can nip it back and take advantage of 3mm backing. The being said, the 2mm weld has penetrated through and actually sat against the 3

I blew through when putting the lid on, more than once. I will set up the outer corner welds as described above to hopefully be consistent. Again, that bring said, I bent the he'll out of the metal with full force and she will not break.
that's the top corner splayed out. Left hand is side, right hand top.

So. Did I need to rip it out? Doubt it. For minds sake I did though. There's no harm in practice, this bit of chassis now becomes my test piece for angles and my mk2 repair should be of a better standard.

Weather looks absolutely rubbish tomorrow and I'm full of cold. However, I can't sit on my hands so looks like it's a day on the fender with my biggest flask of coffee and some Sudafed

@Hicap phill bulkhead is out, tub still on though. What would you do next? I'm thinking wire wheel what I've already got off before starting on tub removal? You said make note of spacers etc and @dieseldog69 said not to remove tub prior to knowing if I'm putting new rear chassis on for lining up purposes. However, I'm not sure I can condemn rear of chassis without tub coming off first to thoroughly check

resto_d1 said:

Weather looks absolutely rubbish tomorrow and I'm full of cold. However, I can't sit on my hands so looks like it's a day on the fender with my biggest flask of coffee and some Sudafed

@Hicap phill bulkhead is out, tub still on though. What would you do next? I'm thinking wire wheel what I've already got off before starting on tub removal? You said make note of spacers etc and @dieseldog69 said not to remove tub prior to knowing if I'm putting new rear chassis on for lining up purposes. However, I'm not sure I can condemn rear of chassis without tub coming off first to thoroughly check

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You can pull the tun off to check the chassis but pop it back on if you are cutting out that back end, you could slice the chassis through the top and half way down on both sides and on both rails, pop the tub back on so that the rear tabs line up with the plates, cut the rest off and when you fit the new section use the bolt tabs to line it up with the tub and once tacked you can pop it back off and seam weld it all up

Gotcha. Cheers.

Count the spacers from the outrigger to bulkhead.

Then do as per @dieseldog69 above.
There may be shims on the brackets behind the seat base on the rear out tuned out riggers.
Don't forget the loom is in the chassis. Don't worry about the length they use a 110 loom in a 90.
Most people put the loom onto outer of the chassis when rebuilding.
Fuel pipes/brake pipes run on the top/side in clips

Rebuild from back body to bulkhead.

Cheers

Well my sinuses are being savaged by man flu but I couldn't waste a day and am busy next weekend with in laws

The bulkhead has seen better days. It's pretty much going to just be a template to follow I think. At least the seal lip and windscreen edge are ok though.
After a while I was cold, the dog was cold so now we are back on the sofa sharing a bag of discos

nothing that 2000hrs, £150 on sheet steel and £30 of paint wont cure .

There's some welding to do there...
Take your time & keep measuring so the footwell/bulkhead dimensions does not shrink

Yes well go very careful cheers. Got new vent surrounds and awaiting new yrm footwells I believe. I drilled out spots where I could to try and retain a template to tie into. Will need new a pillars too lol

Crazy idea....
Have thought about getting this galvanised to save you another job in a few years

resto_d1 said:

Yes well go very careful cheers. Got new vent surrounds and awaiting new yrm footwells I believe. I drilled out spots where I could to try and retain a template to tie into. Will need new a pillars too lol

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The Triggers broom of bulkheads

Good work there though Ed, nice to see one getting some attention and not just a new part for a change, many blokes would have just binned that off for a new Ashtree galvanised jobby

Hicap phill said:

Crazy idea....
Have thought about getting this galvanised to save you another job in a few years

Click to expand...

Not mine Phil and don't think the finances are available, especially if chassis rear needs replacing

Just been browsing and yrm do all the bits I need. It's not actually that expensive to be fair. A posts, a post feet, extended footwells then the relevant fixing kits as I'm not infecting it all again!