Steel wheels / wheel nuts

Hi

I have just bought some new tyres and got new modular steel wheels at the same time.

These wheels do not have the slight concave section around the holes where they mount onto the hub studs - they are completely flat. They are also a bit thicker than the bog standard steel wheels that were on the car.

Because they are flat I have flipped the nuts over so that the chamfered section (that would ordinarily sit in the recess) faces outwards. So far so simple...but when tightened up the nuts don’t go all the way down the studs. I would say there are a couple of threads visible.

I have driven around a bit and re-checked the tightness- they seem ok - but visually it’s a bit disconcerting, and obviously wheels falling off would probably spoil one’s day a bit.

Any thoughts? Are longer wheel studs a thing? how hard are they to fit if so?

Thanks

Personally I'd be having a chat with the wheel supplier as you're never really going to trust that they are seated properly.

Marmaduke said:

Personally I'd be having a chat with the wheel supplier as you're never really going to trust that they are seated properly.

Click to expand...

Gets my vote.

I agree with @Marmaduke but also, which wheels have you bought?

IIRC the first set of steels I had weren't chamfered well, but I still put the nuts on the right way round without any issues. I have a thought that so long as the chamfer on the nut fits into the hole diameter, that's how it should be used to centralise the wheel. I wonder how well balanced your wheels will stay fitting them 'wrongly'??

Paul makes a point which I was thinking as I was reading you post.

Thanks for the replies. I have contacted the supplier and he has replied straight back (kudos) to say that nuts should be the correct way round, ie chamfer in. Paul is correct that this will centralise on studs. The absence of the “cups” that you get on regular oem steels was throwing me. Will flip them all back tonight, jacking to make sure they do indeed centralise.

I still suspect that there will be threads visible though...I did fit them the right way round to start and I think this was the case.

FYI these are the wheels / tyres

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/x4-235-70R...HEELS-LANDY-/272349570261?txnId=1914113715017

Take a photo of the studs/nuts before and after you've re-fitted them .. ISTR there are a couple of different thickness steel nuts available too ...

Mine look like this ...

Paul D said:

Take a photo of the studs/nuts before and after you've re-fitted them .. ISTR there are a couple of different thickness steel nuts available too ...

Mine look like this ...

View attachment 136569

Click to expand...

Thanks Paul.

I did buy some new nuts (Bearmach) to go with the new wheels and I think they may be 1-2mm deeper. Will measure against the old ones when I get home. I do have the old set which are oem from 92.

How are you hosting your picture please?

On Landyzone ... When you reply, look at the green boxes, bottom right of the editing box, select "Upload a File", browse to the file and choose it ..

Thanks Paul

I have now jacked up and refitted the wheels with the original nuts in the usual orientation, ie chamfered edge inwards.

The fit is definitely better as you can see from the pictures and I have tightened them up with a 2 foot breaker bar so they are snug. I’m satisfied that they are OK, albeit I’m dubious whether the cone part of the nut actually fits into the hole in the wheel.

As it happens the new nuts are marginally deeper - 1mm according to the calipers.