steel seal

wonder how long before Chris comes back about refixing liners

chris51 said:

Well its the first 4x4 iv owned so i wasent realy sure what to look out for. I suppose you could say that about any car they all have there problems mate

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try this

In fairness to the OP not everyone knows about K series engines, and fewer know they are in petrol Freelanders.
A few tips.
Tools you'll need

A 1/4" socket set. The Halfords one is good value and has everything you need especially a swivel adapter for the one awkward bolt.
A Female Torque socket set. Can't remember exactly but I think the Bolts are 10 or 12mm
A small Torque wrench to torque the head bolts to 20Nm
An impact driver is very helpful for removing the crank bolt. I got a Clarke 240V one for around £60. I use it all the time now so is well worth buying.
Scotch cleaner pads

You will be taking off the timing belt so get a new one, along with water pump and tensioner. Not replacing these parts when you've gone that far anyway is foolishness.
If you can wait until the head is off before ordering the gasket set then do. If the liners are even and proud 2 - 3 Thou then go for MLS. If they are level then go for Payne Elastomer. If you can't wait then go for Payne Elastomer, it should be good for at least 30,000 miles and probably a lot more.
Take careful note of the position of the pulleys, I didn't and had to refit them after the car refused to start
Don't be tempted to buy the cheapest headgasket kit you can find or you'll be doing it again soon.
I wouldn't bother with an upgraded oil rail unless your feeling flush. I did but only because I ran into problems and wasn't sure if mine was damaged or not.
Prices
HG kit around £100 including new bolts
Timing belt kit £50 to 60. Make sure you get the correct one to match your tensioner. There are two types, manual and auto.
Water pump £20 - £30
Oil £25 for Castrol Magnetec 10W40
Coolant £20

All in the parts shouldn't be much more than £250. Good luck

PS MGF and TF forums are a great source of info as they are the same engine.

Pmsl. Talk about kick a man while hes down. Thanks to the people who gave me the helpfull advise a i really apreciate it.

Chris

Go for it, So long as you take your time and take note of everything you do it ain't that hard.
I forgot to add you will probably need a tool to push the pulleys into position and hold them while refitting the timing belt, I made one but this is what I'm talking about.
Sealey VS173 Camshaft Positioning Tool | eBay
Do lots of research before starting there is plenty of info out there.

https://awj99.wordpress.com/rover-k-series-the-ultimate-head-gasket-replacement/

Not exactly the same but some good stuff
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...=BGZ3QsqhO5m-n6Y-QM5lUQ&bvm=bv.95277229,d.d24

Eurocarparts/carparts4less might have the stuff you need. Their ebay shop is often cheaper again.

Thats a good step by step guide mate ill defo be following that. Iv got all the tools to do the job but i just need one of those cam locking tools. Looks like cleaning the garage out to get the car in, think its best to do it under cover. Thanks for the help and advise mate.

chris51 said:

Thats a good step by step guide mate ill defo be following that. Iv got all the tools to do the job but i just need one of those cam locking tools. Looks like cleaning the garage out to get the car in, think its best to do it under cover. Thanks for the help and advise mate.

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No probs, any more questions just ask.

Remove the ball in the jiggle valve and go for the prt thermostat set up, making sure you remove the old one

freelance said:

Remove the ball in the jiggle valve and go for the prt thermostat set up, making sure you remove the old one

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+1 on the PRT setup, they can be bought as a kit but not so sure about the jiggle valve. Maybe do a bit of reading about this first.

Before doing all that, get the ACTUAL problem properly diagnosed.

It might be the head gasket, but it also might not be. A disinterested AA man glancing under the bonnet and immediately writing it off as the gasket because "they all do that" is about as far from a proper diagnosis as you can get.

dave21478 said:

Before doing all that, get the ACTUAL problem properly diagnosed.

It might be the head gasket, but it also might not be. A disinterested AA man glancing under the bonnet and immediately writing it off as the gasket because "they all do that" is about as far from a proper diagnosis as you can get.

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Very true but something has to be seriously amiss for it to be emptying the header tank out the exhaust.

Well after much thought i didnt have it towed in the end it was just to exspensive £435 for 130 mile tow is a bit of a **** take. So i went with the steal seal £35.00. Im now home after 5 hours doing 60mph and stuck in trafic but we are back in one peice. I made regular stops at services to check the coolent and let the engine cool down a bit. The temp guage stayed normal all the way tho the header tank was bubling like a couldren and was leaking out the cap

Now its home its going in the garage and im gonna start striping it down. I was thinking on the way home i wounder how easy it will be getting that steal seal out, can i just use a coolent flush chemical or is it a bugger to get out?

The mg boys put a dishwasher tablet in to clean the pipes. Not sure how it would work with a freelander but wouldn't try it until the fault is fixed.
Good job getting it home and hopefully no harm done.

never use a tablet - use dishwasher liquid.

Is it best to do this before or after I fit the new head gasket, water pump etc ?.

After. You don't want to be running the engine at all until it is fixed.

Alibro said:

The mg boys put a dishwasher tablet in to clean the pipes. Not sure how it would work with a freelander but wouldn't try it until the fault is fixed.
Good job getting it home and hopefully no harm done.

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Cleaning the coolant system: I use a strongish solution of ordinary citric acid - buy a box at the local superette - drain system, refill with cirtic acid solution and H2O - start up - bleed as directed in Haynes at the 2 bleed screws and let it idle until well warmed up / until the cooling fans come on [ leave coolant cap off top up as necessary and heater on hot ]. Let coo, drain and flush the system...

I've just read this, I'm sure you have fixed this now anyway but are you sure it wasn't just a duff cap? I used steel seal In my old escort gti, before I had the balls to do it all properly. It worked for me and I had the car for a further two years with no coolant loss and tbh I never serviced the thing. I also used it in my Citroen and my mates Audi A4. Again all successes. It's a decent product if you read the instructions correctly. It's not like k seal and it's not little bits that block fine passages it's a clear liquid that forms a thermal bond. My landrover is the first motor I've had were I haven't used it, mainly because I felt brave enough working on a simple engine. But as a stop gap I wouldn't hesitate. Plus it's come with a money back guarentee so if it makes no difference you can alway get your money back

The symptom is indicating a leaking inlet gasket. Coolant may have run into the inlet at cylnder no.1 and filled it partly. When the engine starts it will smoke (steam) until the water has evaporated.
Check the spark plugs before you strip the head. If plug no. 1 has a different color it is just a matter of replacing the inlet gasket.