stationary on H and L

Hi all,
I have a problem with my classic landy here, when it's on H or on L the vehicle is stationary, but when i put in diff lock H or L it will move with a banging noise randomly.What's gone bad and what i need to replaced and how easy is this job? I have the basic tools.

Thanks a million.

Broken driveshaft diff or CV joint.

leave it out of difflock and get somone to see which propshaft is turning while you are in there operating the vehicle.
Outcome:
Front or back
Which ever is turning and not giving you drive thats where to start.

Hopefully its the rear propshaft turning. Tthen you need to work out what it is exactly.

IF rear: Remove rear driveshafts and inspect, Then drain and remove rear diff, again inspect. If you have a broken shaft you may need to get the broken bit out before you are able to remove the diff from the casing.

IF front, you need to remove the outer drive members inspect for damage, then remove brake lines and extract whole axle end assy each side inspect. then remove diff assy inspectt, again if you have a broken shaft you may need to get the broken bit out before you are able to remove the diff from the casing.

replace broken parts with good original LR parts and not paddocks (britpart) unless you intend on changing them again when you hit any mud.

Thanks Jai, for responding
It's the front prop shaft that's spinning and no go. I'll have to check it out, any advice on how i should go about doing this? do i need any other parts such as gasket for this job? and where i can get LR parts online?

As the front one is turning there is obviously some loss of connection between the drive shaft and the wheels. This will be one of the following

1) CV joint
2) Axel prop shaft
3) Diff

You could take it to the local garage with a hydrolic lift and get them to jack all four wheels up off the ground, run the engine, and see which one of the two front wheels is turning. This will help track it down to one side or the other - You will also be able to hear where the noise is comming from - I found a local LR dealer in Torver who kindly did this for me one.

DO NOT DO THIS - The other way (but not recomended) is to use 4 axel stands, or even quicker to disconect the rear drive shaft, put it in diff lock, and put the front axel on axel stands and have a listen, but be VERY careful if does not fall off the axel stands as it will then run you over if the fauly corrcts it self!!!!!!!!! - DO NOT DO THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would suspect a CV joint or axel prop shaft - either way time to dismatle the front hub swivel joint, +/- break the axel joint

(I'm doing this tommorow and it is NOT going o be an easy job)

what a headache, CV joint is gone. There was no oil in the CV joint section of the diff when we open it, can this causes the CV to be Chew up like this?

Anyone know the part #, it's for a Land Rover 90,With a 19J engine ?

is it easy to find gaskets and seals to fix this repair?

Where abouts are you?

Is the axle original? and do you have the axle number if so then Ring Paddocks spares and they will send you all the stuff you need. and ask for a couple of pots of one shot grease for the rebuild and other side Jai

This any good tae ye...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/cv-joint-renewal-68945.html

Ye'll probably only need the gaskets for the stub axle and drive flange but it might be an idea to change the oil seal and bronze bush thingy in the stub axle while ye're at it incase there's been any damage done to them.

This is the parts that ah used ...

FTC3648 - stub axle gasket
FRC3099 - stub axle oil seal
FRC4319 - stub axle bush
FRC3988 - drive flange gasket

These are listed for 1985 onwards to KA930455.

You guys are great help, thanks once again.

Does anyone know if i can only buy the "Marble casing" of the CV joint only?

surf_n_ride said:

Does anyone know if i can only buy the "Marble casing" of the CV joint only?

Click to expand...

Don't be such a tight arse CV joints ain't expensive.