Starting problems

Hi chaps,

I last used my Series 3 two weeks ago for quite a long trip and she performed perfectly. However, I went out to start her this afternoon and it was very difficult indeed (it isn't usually) but she eventually started. I then went to get something from the house whilst she idled and when I came out a couple of minutes later the engine had stopped. It then took almost an hour to start her again and this time I revved and warmed her up for a good 5 mins before turning the engine off.

I then went back out half an hour later and she wouldn't start....at all.
What could be the problem here, bearing in mind that up until today I never had ANY starting problems. There is half a tank of fuel...

Give us a clue - what fuel?

Sorry, it's petrol.
I've been told it could be any number of things but if it runs ok once started, ie no backfiring or lumpiness, is it likely to be the points or more a fuelling problem?

Probably fuel or spark - toss a coin to choose which one to check first. Usual diagnostic checks - turn the engine over and check for a big fat spark using a spare plug in no.1 lead, If it's a bit wimpy inspect (and if necessary replace) LT wiring, HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, points and condenser. If spark is still poor replace coil. That should sort out any electrical gremlins. Still not running? Well, you've preempted a near-future ignition failure, at least.
Clean out any fuel filters, check fuel is getting to carb by pulling feed pipe off, pointing into a jamjar and turning over the engine - you should get a good rhythmic squirt. If that's ok you probably need to strip and clean the carb, many a strong man gives up and buys a new one at this point! Webers are fairly easy to strip and rebuild, Zeniths suffer from body warp and may need to have the top and bottom mating faces flattened off. Either way you'll probably stuff the gasket so get a new one first. Most garages can't fix this sort of stuff any more 'cos they can't find the diagnostics socket.....

Good luck!

If you get a can of cheap release oil, one thats not ozone friendly (not wd40 it doesnt work, asda's cheap stuff does), and spray it into the air intake while someone cranks the engine, if the engine starts ok and runs while you spray the stuff up the spout then its a fuel problem, if the engine still wont go then its most likely an ignition problem, this is a trick the AA have done for years.
You can get an inexpensive gizmo from good car places that goes inline with the spark plug, and you can see a spark jumping the gap through a window, great for testing ignitions, if you have a landy then one of these under the seat is a good idea, some mechanics dont like them, I think they are good.
Dont use easy start.
A lot of faults like this have been sorted just by changing the points and plugs, if I had to hazard a wild guess then I'd be looking at the condensor if it was ignition, or the fuel pump if fuel (sniff the dipstick, if it stinks of petrol and the oil level is rising then the pump diaphragm has gone), as you said the problem came on suddenly.

Right, I've checked *everything* and I'm getting no spark. The points are fine, the coil isn't working....but I can't be sure it's not getting any electrical feed. There seem to be two earths, can anyone say what the craic is here? How can I check if my coil is getting any power and what is the schematic for power to the coil - ie which wires should I be checking?

+ side of coil fed from ignition switched earth (white lead), - side to points (white with black tracer).
Using a meter the + side of the coil should have 12v with the ignition on and the - should alternate between 12v and 0v as the points open and close.

Land Rover Manuals, Part Catalogue, workshop manual, download pdf files, Landroverweb.com Linking your Landy to the World! section 7.

Using a test lamp, or an old sidelight fitting or something, connect it accross the coil, park up on flat ground, take the dizzy cap off, put the vehicle in 4th then rock the vehicle forwards and backwards to turn the engine, you'll see the points open and close, at the same time you should see the light go on and off, if not summats up.
If the light doesnt flash, put the bulb from the + side of the coil (the lt wire that goes into the loom not the dizzy) to chassis, the bulb should light when the ignition is on.
If that works you might have duffo points or a connection between the dizzy and the coil.