starting problems hot or cold diesel

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hi every 1 i have been helping my father with this issue on his p38 i firstly discovered the clear hose was broken from previous owner so replaced that then found that leak off pipes needed changing so replaced then hot start fix added then fuel pump went absoultely no fuel coming from it so made my cut out to replace the pump and replaced and now is still taking 2 to 3 cranks to turn over hot or cold the battery has been replaced too with brand new varta g8 my thinking is either sticking stop solenoid on fip or electrics gone on fip or starter motor not cranking correctly . thanks for any help u can give on this matter
 
well i am suspecting starter due to it sticking on a couple of weeks ago so goin to take it off next week and just put it on tester but was suspecting the pump due to the fact its done 205000 miles on this engine now everything else is great on car apart from passenger door switch needs replacing i suspect due to it not opening on the key like all the others. thanks for your responses as i am new to the range rovers but have been working on landys for a while only bought it for my dad to use for work while i do a rebuild on the 110 :D
 
new starter did the trick starts every time first time now car is a bit sluggish still would it be worth doin the timing chains ? and is there a different rear prop able to fit on the p38 ? cause the 1 that is on it does not have the rubber doughnut which i thought they are ment too have on ?
thanks agen guys for the help
 
new starter did the trick starts every time first time now car is a bit sluggish still would it be worth doin the timing chains ? and is there a different rear prop able to fit on the p38 ? cause the 1 that is on it does not have the rubber doughnut which i thought they are ment too have on ?
thanks agen guys for the help

Diesels should have the rubber coupling. You must have a petrol rear prop fitted. Belay that it can have either fitted.
 
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cheers wammers i will get a new prop then and they are fitted on manual diesels?
would it be worth doin the timing chains wammers ?
as the car is a bit sluggish on setting off or do u think could be something else ?

Think it should be rubber coupling automatic, solid manual. Up to you on chains. Just done mine. Took head off to cure some oil leaks and found serious toothache in a couple of links in cam chain. Good job the worst one was at the top at TDC or i would never have seen it. Bottom chain was not to bad, worn but nothing like as bad as cam chain, which was not going to last long. Sprockets were ok but changed cam and pump ones. Crank sprocket was fine, and it's a good job because they are like hobby horse **** to get hold of. That at 117,000 miles.

PS. If it's a manual i believe they are a bit sluggish because unlike the auto you don't get and convertor slip to lift the RPM up to turbo speed as quickly. Manuals don't have the rubber coupling.
 
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