Freelander 1 Starter issues

Hi,

I have just picked up a freelander petrol 1.8, 2004.

I was told the starter motor had gone, so I have replaced this and still having issues.

The car wouldn't start by jump leads, so I took my battery out of my other freelander and it started and drove ok, although slight crunch when I go into third but will tackle this after the starting issue. The car started once after but then wouldn't start again, it sounded like the starter motor was going very slow then dying as if the battery was dead, but put the same battery back in my old freelander and it started fine! so not the battery? I have checked spark plugs they seem fine..

What else could this be???

Is the crunch into 3rd likely to be a major issue?

Thanks in advance

Nick

NickPalmer said:

What else could this be???

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For a non crank, it's most likely to be the Lucar connector on the end of the solenoid. These small connectors suffer corrosion and bad contacts. The starter won't make an audible click if this connection is bad.

However a slow crank is likely to be the main contactors in the starter solenoid. These also can also give non cranking faults, but there will be an audible click, just no cranking or slow cranking.
There are contactor kits available very cheaply so repair is possible.

I wouldn't worry about a slight crunch with third gear, mines is like that, also I sometimes have to double de clutch to get reverse

Col

ok thanks for this will try the starter contactor kit, where is best to get one of these from.

Thanks

Nick

NickPalmer said:

where is best to get one of these from

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EBay, strangely.

Colthebrummie said:

I wouldn't worry about a slight crunch with third gear, mines is like that, also I sometimes have to double de clutch to get reverse

Col

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I had a TD4 with a crunchy 3rd gear. Different gearbox but changing the oil for ATF fluid fixed the issue.

Alibro said:

I had a TD4 with a crunchy 3rd gear. Different gearbox but changing the oil for ATF fluid fixed the issue.

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Are you saying you replaced the EP90 in a manual gearbox for ATF? I didn't know you could do that.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

Are you saying you replaced the EP90 in a manual gearbox for ATF? I didn't know you could do that.

Col

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I think it's MTF94 normally but yes. I replaced it with ATF and after a hundred miles or so the crunch in 3rd was so reduced it was barely noticeable.

Colthebrummie said:

Are you saying you replaced the EP90 in a manual gearbox for ATF? I didn't know you could do that.

Col

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It's a pretty common way to reduce synchro ring problems. ATF uses a complex set of friction modifiers. These are essential in and auto, but also beneficial in a worn manual box too.

Well, you learn something new every day. Do you think it would work in my series 3 anorl?

Col

you've changed batteries...before you spend money swop starters...if you can easily..thats what I would do...

Colthebrummie said:

Well, you learn something new every day. Do you think it would work in my series 3 anorl?

Col

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If the synchro rings are worn, then it might just help.

decided to get a new starter motor and all good now, thanks for the advice

Any advice how to get SRS light to go off and will it fail an MOT on this?

NickPalmer said:

decided to get a new starter motor and all good now, thanks for the advice

Any advice how to get SRS light to go off and will it fail an MOT on this?

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Unplug and reconnect the yellow connectors under the driver and passenger seat. Then you might need the garage to reset the code for you. Mine charged me £10.

Disconnect the battery first!

Madmustang said:

Disconnect the battery first!

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It should be okay - those connectors are just for the pretensioners, and have a bar that bridges the terminals when unplugged. Obviously the key should be off so you don’t create another fault code...

no joy with unplugging and reconnecting the yellow connectors under the seat to make the SRS light go off, any other ideas before I have to get it checked out at the garage?
Thanks

It’s probably quickest to have the codes read - as I say, I solved the problem by doing unplug/replug but the code remained and had to be reset. Seems silly, but I guess it’s designed so that any fault means a trip to a garage where it can be assessed properly.

Sometimes a failing starter can cause excessive voltage fluctuations when cranking. This can cause random ECUs to flag up codes and keep light's on. I've had that very issue a few times on the ABS ECU, but I see no reason why the SRS ECU shouldn't be similarly affected.

Nodge68 said:

Sometimes a failing starter can cause excessive voltage fluctuations when cranking. This can cause random ECUs to flag up codes and keep light's on. I've had that very issue a few times on the ABS ECU, but I see no reason why the SRS ECU shouldn't be similarly affected.

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Last year the security system on mine started playing up. It was immobilised and wouldn't clear. Disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour cleared it. I wondered what had caused it, then literally within a day or 2 had problems starting. New starter motor stopped all the problems.