L322 stalling and low idle

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doordie

Member
Posts
33
Location
Tanzania
has anyone experienced any of this before? diagnostics don't show any problem apart from a p0011 DTC, the car stalls and Idles very low sometimes, the throttle body was replaced which cured the problem for a short time but the problem is back again
2004 vogue, 230,000km 4.4 BMW V8
 
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doordie said:
has anyone experienced any of this before? diagnostics don't show any problem apart from a p0011 DTC, the car stalls and Idles very low sometimes, the throttle body was replaced which cured the problem for a short time but the problem is back again
Click to expand...
The year of the car and the engine type might help.
 
Vanos and/or CPS issue the M62's VANOS system can start to rattle on start up and then start rattling every now and then once warm if yours is a bit noisey it could be the issue the M62 will continue to run with VANOS issues, but it will be down a tad on power and be rattly the idle can also go all over the place, the seals internally fail.

The Crank position sensor though would get my first looking. ;)

It could also be Air/fuel mixture related due to an air leak most commonly, the PCV valve diaphragm fails or the throttle body seal fails...

On the M62 , the inlet manifold seals also tend to go brittle and fail too the best way to test is to spray brake/parts cleaner or similar over the various areas while the engine is running, any noticable change in idle could indicate an induction leak and the ECU cant adjust the fuel trims to compensate.....
 
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there is no rattling from my engine, it is only the intermittent low idle and sometimes the engine dies, I have replaced the throttle body which fixed the problem temporarily and now the same problem is back, however the disgnostics is showing p0011 code for the camshaft position sensor bank1 could that be the cause of the engine dying and the low revs?
 
doordie said:
there is no rattling from my engine, it is only the intermittent low idle and sometimes the engine dies, I have replaced the throttle body which fixed the problem temporarily and now the same problem is back, however the disgnostics is showing p0011 code for the camshaft position sensor bank1 could that be the cause of the engine dying and the low revs?
Click to expand...

If it's faultering..

Yes..
 
doordie said:
I replaced the camshaft position sensor too but the fault is still there
Click to expand...

So you've replaced it and the fault is still there?

The same P0011? to make sure it isn't a duff sensor you just need to swap them between banks.
The current fault codes you have are for bank 1, if it moves to bank 2 when you swap you know it's the sensor at fault.
If it doesn't move then there's a timing issue on bank 1 VANOS most likely.
 
Henry_b said:
So you've replaced it and the fault is still there?

The same P0011? to make sure it isn't a duff sensor you just need to swap them between banks.
The current fault codes you have are for bank 1, if it moves to bank 2 when you swap you know it's the sensor at fault.
If it doesn't move then there's a timing issue on bank 1 VANOS most likely.
Click to expand...

I will swap them tomorrow and see if the fault moves, maybe a wiring issue if the fault is still in bank1
 
doordie said:
I will swap them tomorrow and see if the fault moves, maybe a wiring issue if the fault is still in bank1
Click to expand...

If the fault persists on Bank 1 It's either VANOS or Timing chain Guide rails breaking allowing the chain to jump..

You hear the Latter more than the Former..

A Bank 2 fault if the fault moves with the sensor would be P0022 IIRC..
 
doordie said:
I swapped the camshaft position sensors and I am still getting p0011 code, what should I do now?
Click to expand...

P0011 is timing over advance, Could be Vanos related as the seals and tend to go flaccid after a set mileage. - A rebuild and re-time.

Could also be the "PLASTIC" Guide rails are disintegrating and allowing the timing chain to jump allowing an over advanced condition..

This a a Common M62 gripe as with any BMW they penny grabbed at every opportunity
Drop the sump and look for debris..

You could also remove the cam cover and "front cover" and have a look from the top but sight is limited.

I1JMfd5l.jpg


You did clear the codes after the replacment Position sensor, right?
 
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yes I did clear the code, and It came back, I cleared it again drove a few miles then scanned again to find the code is still there, I replaced the rubber seals for both cam covers and I checked to see the condition of the chains and guides I even used a light to check deeper, the chain was very tight no sign of looseness, the black plastic piece where the chain supports is still intact
 
doordie said:
yes I did clear the code, and It came back, I cleared it again drove a few miles then scanned again to find the code is still there, I replaced the rubber seals for both cam covers and I checked to see the condition of the chains and guides I even used a light to check deeper, the chain was very tight no sign of looseness, the black plastic piece where the chain supports is still intact
Click to expand...

A Vanos rebuild and re-time would get my money then,

Just make sure the timing procedure is followed to the letter..

At this point however the timing is already out, hence the Codes ;)

I wrote down the M62 procedure here somewhere..

Hang on..
 
In here somewhere is the "balls deep" timing version ;)
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/m62-rebuild.337894/

As for the Vanos rebuids there are videos ;)

Just remember to keep the Vanos units at their respective banks,

The oil distribution unit will also benefit from a "look at" there are seals that distribute the oil and it is a good idea to replace these there is also a base gasket all good practive to rebuild/replace.

kr2AHgIl.jpg


Video regarding unit rebuild

 
holidaychicken said:
Swap your vanos solenoids around if not already mentioned, you will need a special socket
Click to expand...
I will try swapping the vanos solenoids today, the p0011 code might be the one responsible for the low idle and intermittent engine shutdown? because it runs fine until after a long day of driving or when I parked the car and it is idling for a long time that is when it starts acting up sometimes it almost dies and it increases the idle back up on its own as if it choked for a second.
sometime I put my foot all the way down but the car does not accelerate immediately it gradually increases unless I push the pedal until I hit the switch on the accelerator pedal and the car goes for it (if you push the accelerator pedal all the way down there is a clicking feeling like a switch being pushed)
apart from this the car runs fine, its just that the previous owner did not take good care of with the oil change. the day I went for an oil change after buying the car from him, the oil filter was no where to be found it disintegrated on a few pieces came out it was all just a sludge so I am worried some small openings might be clogged, I am due for another oil change in a couple of days
 
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