Squeak squeak

Zaky31 · May 7, 2015

Disco 1 1996 3.9 V8 ES

Hello all. this weeks new faults......

1. annoying 'squeak squeak' from (I believe) one of the pullies on the belt. Obviously only when engine is running and gets faster with engine rpm increase.
2. Where is my coolant water going???
I seem to be topping up the expansion tank weekly. (No obvious leaks/drips when running stationary) could it be the water pump?? Could it be that causing the squeak too???

3. Temperamental ABS fault. Startup and drive= ABS light goes off as normal then comes back on and stays on. However twice now the light has stayed off BUT as I've started braking (under normal smooth braking conditions) while hitting a speed hump or pot hole the brakes go crazy. Pedal starts clunking and bouncing. Sounds and feels like grinding on brakes and pedal goes rock hard and no matter how hard I press pedal = no brakes at all. I have to quickly release pedal and press again and then it works fine but then ABS light comes on. This is very worrying as on one of the occasions this sent me out into a busy junction. A miracle no cars were crossing the junction but I needed a new pair of pants..

Hope someone can advise?
Cheers boys and girls

fanatic · May 7, 2015

Zaky31 said:
Disco 1 1996 3.9 V8 ES

Hello all. this weeks new faults......

1. annoying 'squeak squeak' from (I believe) one of the pullies on the belt. Obviously only when engine is running and gets faster with engine rpm increase.
2. Where is my coolant water going???
I seem to be topping up the expansion tank weekly. (No obvious leaks/drips when running stationary) could it be the water pump?? Could it be that causing the squeak too???

3. Temperamental ABS fault. Startup and drive= ABS light goes off as normal then comes back on and stays on. However twice now the light has stayed off BUT as I've started braking (under normal smooth braking conditions) while hitting a speed hump or pot hole the brakes go crazy. Pedal starts clunking and bouncing. Sounds and feels like grinding on brakes and pedal goes rock hard and no matter how hard I press pedal = no brakes at all. I have to quickly release pedal and press again and then it works fine but then ABS light comes on. This is very worrying as on one of the occasions this sent me out into a busy junction. A miracle no cars were crossing the junction but I needed a new pair of pants..

Hope someone can advise?
Cheers boys and girls

look at water pump relief hole, any muck and its seals ko'd

ronsealdeath · May 7, 2015

Rad leak or hg fail maybe?

haigy · May 8, 2015

1 Squeak is prob tenzioner pulley bearing.
2 coolant is either loose jubilee clip slight drip until under pressure. Split hose or hg fail
3 thats how abs reacts when you skid its pulses so you have control still causing friction between tyres and floor.

Check abs sensors and abs on the front arch it shud be pass side. It may be old motor but try removing it all together if you wish

Gazbo · May 8, 2015

If your vehicle is fitted with A/C check that the compressor belt is VERY tight, I have found it needs to be, otherwise...........squeak,squeak!
The coolant loss, check beneath the front carpets near the tranny tunnel, the heater matrix could be leaking, and not enough to be obvious.
ABS, check wheel bearings for excessive play, check out the wheel motion sensor mountings, any that are loose/poorly adjusted can cause a fault, maybe check for loose wiring connections on ABS system, particularly around the valve block.
Grinding sounds from brakes usually pads worn down to steel backing, causing bad braking and trashed brake discs.

discool · May 8, 2015

Any thing that revolves at the front of your engine has bearing and when they are failing can squeak due to lack of lubricant.
I assume your only refilling the expansion-tank to the halfway seam, as any thing above will be blown out via the cap.
I also assume that your engine is the same as mine with all the auxiliaries driven by a serpentine belt even with or with out ac being fitted, I believe serp belts can also slip due to wear or iffy tensioner so some else to check

Zaky31 · May 8, 2015

Hi all. I have had a good close look and listen underneath the bonnet. It is the A/C compressor squealing. The belt seems tight and the pulley is not slipping must be the pulley bearings. Guess it's a new one.???
However I have noticed the A/C button does not illuminated when I press it and no cold air so seams a complete A/C overhaul is needed. Anyone know where fuses are for A/C so I can check it's not that first???

Zaky31 · May 8, 2015

Ok I found the 2 fuses in engine bay and one under steering wheel they are all good and used my multimeter = power to fuses is all good. Tomorrow I'll dismantle the dash board controls and see if the actual switch is getting power. I know the A/C worked about 6 months ago when I last used it as the light cane on and I got a lovely blast of freezing cold air. No though the little orange light doesn't come on switch and no cold air.

Zaky31 · May 9, 2015

So the mystery continues. I pulled the plug off the compressor (clutch solonoid) stuck my multimeter on each terminal. Engine on, fans on, press A/C button ........ dead . No power to clutch.

So my fuses are all good and receiving 12v. The switch light bulb doesn't come on when pressed and no power to clutch. So must me somewhere between fuses and switch or even the switch itself

Gazbo · May 9, 2015

If your A/C has lost the refrigerant gas charge pressure there is a pressure switch (P/S) in the gas circuit that cuts power to the compressor clutch to protect the system.
You can temporarily bridge that P/S to check if A/C clutch will still engage when system is switched on, but do not run the A/C if gas pressure is down, the compressor will be damaged. System re-gas will be required.

Zaky31 · May 10, 2015

Cheers gazbo. I managed to fix the switch on the dash yesterday so I know that's working now. But still nothing at the clutch. Today I'll bridge the connections on the high pressure switch and see what happens. I'm assuming it's the connector going into bottom of high pressure valve?? I did press the valve quickly and there is some pressure in the system as it hissed?? Probably not enough though

Zaky31 · May 10, 2015

Ok so update. I have unclipped the pressure switch and tested it with multimeter. 12v going to it no problems. So I bridged the contacts and then tested the connector at the clutch STILL NO POWER to compressor clutch?????
I'm now thinking here must be a relay somewhere that's dead??

Gazbo · May 10, 2015

A relay may be the problem but you have 12V at the P/S, I would think that means the juice is getting through and the problem is a discontinuity downstream somewhere.
Just a thought, from memory there is a connector plug pretty close up to the compressor clutch, maybe that is frazzled or perhaps a bad earth at the clutch.
Maybe try a "hot wire" direct to the clutch plug, clutches have been known to "burn out", it is only a fairly simple electromagnetic device.

Zaky31 · May 10, 2015

So I take it the circuit goes direct from P/S to clutch without passing back inside via a relay???? I have power to P/S but nothing to the wires going TO clutch (power connector to clutch) so somewhere between P/S and clutch it's dead this is what makes me think it returns to a relay before back out to clutch??? Problem is the landy has a million relays in all places and the wiring is wrapped through main loom so no chance of following the wires back to a relay.

Gazbo · May 11, 2015

Not really sure if relay feeds that circuit and am away from home so cannot check on my Disco or a wiring diagram at present, just assuming that if P/S has volts on one side then that should be upstream on the feed side to the comp clutch.
Just talking it through as I would be looking at the problem, I am no expert.

Squeak squeak

Zaky31

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