Some parts of Land Rover made of chocolate!?

What a silly issue to encounter....
I'm removing the inner wheel arch, or at least trying, to get to the crank sensor.

Of course, the made of chocolate it seems plastic nuts just spin and won't unthread.

Any ideas how to resolve and get them off?

I'll replace with proper nuts, so now need to go and find some at halfords

Got them off keeping pressure behind them, firstly with a flathead screwdriver, then the wedge end of the wheel nut breaker bar. Chocolate though

And now I cannot get the bolt out of the Crank sensor, it's locked tight.

Any ideas please??

I don't want to risk threading it or worse

Vinny73 said:

Any ideas please??

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only that when i removed mine .. i were using the wrong tool.
i were trying with a regular socket .. to no avail ..
'till a friend pointed out it needed an allen head wrench ..
..
[ FL1 btw .. .. no idea which one your's is ..
[ having said that .. be no need to remove inner arches to access the c.s. on a FL1 ..

Vinny73 said:

And now I cannot get the bolt out of the Crank sensor, it's locked tight.

Any ideas please??

I don't want to risk threading it or worse

Click to expand...

It shouldn't be tight at all. There's no thread lock compound applied at the factory, and the torque is 10Nm, so definitely not tight.

Are you definitely trying the correct bolt?
I've marked it red in this picture.

Couldn't do with a spanner, didn't have a fitting socket. Just ran to Halfords and got on. Got it off now..
Put the new one on, but engine just turns, won't start!

Old one has the small indent on the sensor and roundabout hole. New one, Facet manufacturer, has the made in Italy if you can read and doesn't have the notch out the sensor.
Old one back in, car starts first time

IIRC depending on year the sensors are different...

Vinny73 said:

Old one has the small indent on the sensor and roundabout hole. New one, Facet manufacturer, has the made in Italy if you can read and doesn't have the notch out the sensor.
Old one back in, car starts first time

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Your car has the early target wheel, so you need the early sensor.
The sensor you bought is the later sensor for the later target wheel.
Most early version were replaced under a recall IIRC.

Been away, putting about 750 miles on the car.
Ok, its a 2013 model, so surprised if it has an early version of anything. I'll check out that recall info.

Anyway, the sensor has made a huge difference. It's not all over the place now, it drives consistently and powerfully, so I think the sensor was definitely part of my problems (including the split hose I had, replaced with the cheap Amazon one for emergency repair, that slipped right down the throttle body - which I then replaced with a decent silicone Britpart hose).

Also, first time I fitted the sensor, it was wheel off job on jack and stand. putting the correct sensor on, I just pulled the internal wheel arch down and reached in to do it, took 5-10 mins max.

Only complaints now are gears arent quite as smooth and I need to do a gear box oil change and probably / possibly a Haldex fluid and filter change, 71k miles, 10 years old... thoughts?

A definate yes for the gearbox oil change and Haldex service.

There's nothing wrong with chocolate, though it does make you fat

NeilTD4 said:

A definate yes for the gearbox oil change and Haldex service.

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Ok, next job! Any links / suggestions for the Haldex filter and oil kit?

I think the gearbox is fairly straight forward right, drain down (under car) and refill from bolt removed from NSF arch area?

Vinny73 said:

Ok, next job! Any links / suggestions for the Haldex filter and oil kit?

I think the gearbox is fairly straight forward right, drain down (under car) and refill from bolt removed from NSF arch area?

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Ebay for the Haldex kit, under £50 delivered.

Box is a simple drain and refill with the same quantity that was removed.

Nodge68 said:

Ebay for the Haldex kit, under £50 delivered.

Box is a simple drain and refill with the same quantity that was removed.

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Thanks, how can I be sure its Gen 4 or 3? 2013 FL2 SD4, I assume Gen 4...

Also, was watching Beavis Pits on YouTube, changing rear dif oil/fluid - But that's not the Haldex fluid right? so I suppose both need doing. Cant find a good vid on the Haldex fluid change...

Vinny73 said:

Thanks, how can I be sure its Gen 4 or 3? 2013 FL2 SD4, I assume Gen 4...

Also, was watching Beavis Pits on YouTube, changing rear dif oil/fluid - But that's not the Haldex fluid right? so I suppose both need doing. Cant find a good vid on the Haldex fluid change...

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A 2013 has a Haldex Gen 4, as that was introduced for the 2009 MY.

The Haldex is easy to service, but it's best to remove it. The rear diff doesn't have a drain plug, so it's best to use one of those £15 pumps off Amazon to pump the old oil out. I fitted a drain plug to mine, but I was rebuilding the diff anyway, so it was easy to add.

Nodge68 said:

A 2013 has a Haldex Gen 4, as that was introduced for the 2009 MY.

The Haldex is easy to service, but it's best to remove it. The rear diff doesn't have a drain plug, so it's best to use one of those £15 pumps off Amazon to pump the old oil out. I fitted a drain plug to mine, but I was rebuilding the diff anyway, so it was easy to add.

Click to expand...

Hmm, removing the Haldex is beyond my mechanical abilities. I wouldnt be up for that. Sounds like it will need to go in somewhere for that then.

Vinny73 said:

Hmm, removing the Haldex is beyond my mechanical abilities. I wouldnt be up for that. Sounds like it will need to go in somewhere for that then.

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It's only a few bolts to remove. However it is also possible to service it in situ, but the filter isn't easy to get out with the Haldex in place, but it's not impossible.

If you're near Birmingham, then Bell Engineering are the best bet for Haldex services.