sierrafery
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I'd insist to let it idle 15 seconds after cold start as you should and if no problems that way better put your mind to rest
**SOLVED ** D2 TD5 won’t rev after cold start
- Thread starter tom1979
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If it drives normally otherwise then I'd call it a feature
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Mine does something similar. On start up it feels like it's in limp mode fora few seconds before the engine picks up. I assumed it was some sort of mechanism programmed into the ECU to stop you stressing the engine while it was cold and before the oil had worked its way round. Plus the ECU doesn't activate the injector on no. 5 cylinder at first but switches it in later. Mine's been like this since I had it and I've done 100,000 miles.
I'm intrigued as to how the valve stem seals might cause these symptoms. Judging by the discussion on here, they do need replacing occasionally, but unless it's very smoky or drinking a lot of oil I'd leave them alone.
I'm intrigued as to how the valve stem seals might cause these symptoms. Judging by the discussion on here, they do need replacing occasionally, but unless it's very smoky or drinking a lot of oil I'd leave them alone.
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I can leave it longer than that, perhaps a minute but I will still get blue smoke/roughness at 1200-1500rpm. It is not just cold starts, it’s whenever it’s been left more than 20 minutes.
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Ah, with blue smoke, maybe there is oil getting in the combustion chambers, but the specific symptoms you mention sound to me more like something to do with the engine management or fuelling. I've found that the crank position sensor can be responsible for roughness and smoke on acceleration. At various times I've improved matters by cleaning it with electrical cleaner, cleaning the seat it goes in so as to get it as close as possible to the flywheel, or getting a new expensive one to replace the Britpart item.
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Just to clarify, the symptoms are:
* if left for more than an hour the vehicle starts perfectly but the engine hardly runs for a few seconds
* if revved steadily to between 1100-1500rpm I get a blue/grey smoke screen - not noticeable when driving
* once the engine has properly warmed up, perhaps after 2-3 miles there is no problem when stopping/starting it - until around an hour has passed.
* there has been no noticeable drop in oil level in the past 400 miles
* the injector balances at idle are very good : +/- 5 of each other, often even less.
Things I have done:
* VDO fuel pump - no whining at all at any time
* New fuel filter head and new non-return/duck bill/air bleed
The photo below is hold the revs at 1400rpm, after letting it idle for around 20 seconds after starting. This had been left for 1 hour exactly.
I can look at the injector balances during the "smoke screen" in another hour or so, but from what I understand the balance figures are fairly useless above idle?
* if left for more than an hour the vehicle starts perfectly but the engine hardly runs for a few seconds
* if revved steadily to between 1100-1500rpm I get a blue/grey smoke screen - not noticeable when driving
* once the engine has properly warmed up, perhaps after 2-3 miles there is no problem when stopping/starting it - until around an hour has passed.
* there has been no noticeable drop in oil level in the past 400 miles
* the injector balances at idle are very good : +/- 5 of each other, often even less.
Things I have done:
* VDO fuel pump - no whining at all at any time
* New fuel filter head and new non-return/duck bill/air bleed
The photo below is hold the revs at 1400rpm, after letting it idle for around 20 seconds after starting. This had been left for 1 hour exactly.
I can look at the injector balances during the "smoke screen" in another hour or so, but from what I understand the balance figures are fairly useless above idle?
sierrafery
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I thought we are speaking about that https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-td5-won’t-rev-after-cold-start.355869/#post-4767231 which is a but different than what you described now.
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We are. After some testing air in the system has been ruled out. I am suspecting a dodgy injector?
sierrafery
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I'd try with a new crank sensor to be ruled out even without fault codes.... check well it's plug too cos it used to become brittle
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UPDATE!
So earlier in the week we were pottering around with the D2 doing some bits. I said to my mate (who helped me with the engine swap) let's just check the timing isn't out. Put it on the ramp and I cranked it round by hand to line up the chain and marks. He stayed on the ground to put the pin in the flywheel. He said "The timing hole has been drilled in the wrong place" - err... it's a slot not a hole. He'd used a drill bit before because he couldn't get the pin in, the slot in the flywheel was about 5mm further round
So timing set correctly and bingo! I can only imagine the ECU adjusts the fuelling somehow to compensate, but whatever it was doing it's not doing it now! The following day I installed a Serck intercooler, wider range MAP sensor and a Stage 3 Storm Tuning map!
So earlier in the week we were pottering around with the D2 doing some bits. I said to my mate (who helped me with the engine swap) let's just check the timing isn't out. Put it on the ramp and I cranked it round by hand to line up the chain and marks. He stayed on the ground to put the pin in the flywheel. He said "The timing hole has been drilled in the wrong place" - err... it's a slot not a hole. He'd used a drill bit before because he couldn't get the pin in, the slot in the flywheel was about 5mm further round
So timing set correctly and bingo! I can only imagine the ECU adjusts the fuelling somehow to compensate, but whatever it was doing it's not doing it now! The following day I installed a Serck intercooler, wider range MAP sensor and a Stage 3 Storm Tuning map!
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rolled it round to line up the bottom timing pin, undid the bolts on the camshaft, adjusted and put back together.
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