Other [Solved] 10 seconds to accelerate from idle to 4 rpm

Ok....Let's revise what has happened here.
Engine fitted by idiots... not even finished.
all wiring in place
all hoses in place, correct and tight - no splits
new silicone vacuum pipes
fully de-coked inlet manifold (completely de-coked)
New EGR Valve Bypass Kit fitted - (existing vacuum hose pushed onto blanking nipple)
New Crank Case Breather Items
clean air filter
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Completed the fitting of the engine.
fired it up and it started within a very short space of time (this car was stood for 3 years before I got it)
Revved car when cold, and the engine would not rev above 3000 RPM
warmed up a little and got to 4000
warmed up even more and it will go until i take my foot of the pedal.
but...
it take ages to get anywhere from tick-over.
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Items not checked yet.
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
I'm guessing people will say check the filter and pump first, but I was hoping someone could give me something to eliminate sensors, etc.
Thanks in adv.
W

It sounds like your in the right place with the fuel filter/ pump...I would go with the filter, if it's been standing for 3 years the filter inside the can has probably colapsed. If you could find somebody with a fault code reader your might get the code P1260, which would confirm you're in the right area

gonna look at it right now....
but... umm... where is it, and what do I need to open it up???
sorry... raining outside, and want to be prepared before I get straight onto it.
Thanks for Replying Tiny1000

fault code reader..... I have a VCDS (VW/AUDI) one... but not JLR.... wonder if it will still read the codes though ????

this sounds stupid... but I cant find the diesel filter under the bonnet on the TD4??? - 2003 (53plate)
Chassis No. SALLNBAE73A278*** (** represents last three digits)

Mine's under the bonnet, but you would probably find your one in the rear wheel arch, both pump and filter. I'm not 100% sure but I think you can take the pump and the filter off together on a plastic plate, maybe someone else confirm this

that explains it then.... I will look - can't see it on the RAVE Manual CD though :-(

One other thought when mine played up with the same type of fault (max 3000rpm) I pulled the low presure sensor plug from the top of the filter (your's might be in a different place) and it allowed me to gain full revs again. Worth a try

Waiting for the fuel filter to arrive - maybe I will just drive over in the Audi to DLS in Matlock and get one....
actually.... Work beckons, and I'm strugging to get out :-( such is life!
Shame i ripped the fuel filter off before seeing your last post Tiny..... i would have tried disconnecting the fuel pressure sensor - if not only for good measure.

however; to add to my initial post.
when the engine was cold and struggling to get beyond 2500rpm, it was smoking like something on fire.... when it warmed up a little, the smoke went and i EVENTUALLY got to 4000rpm
I hope it isn't the pressure sensor that's goosed.... it isnt the cheapest part on the car (before I get paid at the end of the month)
Unless someone has one laying around that works - second hand or new - that they will part with for a fraction of the cost of a new one???

Just thought I would update this thread - it was the usual MAF sensor...

Nice to see some people here give us the Fixed posts

Just got hold of the Mongoose Cable And JLR Software - hoping to get into using it when I get the engine back in..
Although it isn't much fun in the rain, ice and other bad weather without a garage to work in at the moment!
I'm hoping for someone in Nottinghamshire (close to me - Selston Area) who is kind enough to offer me use of a business unit for a month or two - so I can get this thing on the road again!....