Sluggish disco.........not any more!

Thank you for you prompt responses. Firstly, it's highly probable that I've messed up! One of the documents referenced in here is a PDF called "Tuning_Land_Rover_Tdi_engines_Rev_2.pdf" which I printed out and read.

When I came to validate my pump was the correct pump I compared it to the photograph in this PDF; and it didn't match. I've now gone back to page 1 of this thread where there are another set of photographs and it does match (as far as I can tell at the moment ... I will check again in daylight tomorrow).

So, sorry for messing you about ,.... but I still don't understand why I have an ECU under the middle seat?

BTW ... has anyone yet had an MOT done under the new rules that came in this month? Specifically with respect to removing the Cat?

cheers and thanks ... Paul

Need some help here with this guys. Not sure if my answer lies within this thread somewhere already as I have not read the whole thing. I was having major problems with a lack of power on my 90 300TDi which I found to be the injection pump (full of rusty water and all siezed up) I have now got it working tidy again and have made some adjustments but seem to have made a mess!!

I have stacks of low down power when pulling away and she accelerates through the gears lovely but for some reason I have lost my top end speed. I have had 80mph out of her in the past, but now she struggles to do much more than 60mph. Which of the three settings would I need to adjust to get this back to normal??

Cheers

Adam1979 said:

Need some help here with this guys. Not sure if my answer lies within this thread somewhere already as I have not read the whole thing. I was having major problems with a lack of power on my 90 300TDi which I found to be the injection pump (full of rusty water and all siezed up) I have now got it working tidy again and have made some adjustments but seem to have made a mess!!

I have stacks of low down power when pulling away and she accelerates through the gears lovely but for some reason I have lost my top end speed. I have had 80mph out of her in the past, but now she struggles to do much more than 60mph. Which of the three settings would I need to adjust to get this back to normal??

Cheers

Click to expand...

That's quite a difficult question Adam, because this whole thread works on the premise of alterations from the std settings - it sounds as though you no longer have std settings so I'm not sure where you would start?

It's not like - as far as I'm aware - the old days where your carburetor mixture screw was set at 1.5 turns out from fully in, so you had a permamnent reference point; if you know what I'm saying.

Have you checked to see if there are any factory-looking punch marks on any of the three components pertaining to this thread?

Dave

Yeah you're right mate I have no idea where the settings started as I have adjusted them all several times!! The first time I adjusted them she ran sweet for quite some time and then I started getting performance issues (the landy, not me!!) so I made some more alterations which never helped my problem. I then started fiddling with lots of other stuff over the last few months to try and solve the performance problem, none of which worked until about 2 weeks ago where I thought to strip the injector pump apart and make sure it was all working correctly which it wasn't. The diaghpragm was siezed and would not move and the little fuel pin was rusted to ****. I cleaned it all up and put a small smear of grease on everything and put it all back together. Hey presto - the landy runs sweet again with plenty of boost and power, but then hits about 62mph and runs out of steam. Not a massive issue as I very rarely drive quicker than this anyway but would like to get her running as best as I can.

I've just done the first of these adjustments, the one under the anti tamper plug, 2 full turns and no smoke but what a difference it's made.

I can't get the top off to do the next step yet as I've not got a big enough screwdriver at the mo, but can't wait until I can.

Great mod this, thanks all.

Today I did next stage on the pump and it turned into a big(ish) job.
Once the top was off the diaphram didn't want to lift out, so I gently levered it up before doing the adjustment.

Once back together the engine was hard to start and hunted so much it kept stalling.

After putting it back to the old setting and still having the same problem I soon realized that the pin the diaphram activates was stuck in, now the only way to get this moving again is to remove the throttle leaver (after marking it's position), then remove the plug adjacent to the pin, you can then work the pin in and out until it frees off (I gave it a little help with some silicon spray).

So if the diaphram wont lift out the pin is likely to not be moving freely, this in it's self may be causing poor performance as mine is now pulling very well even after putting it back to it's original setting.
That said the diaphram has already been moved 180° or so.

Had a crack at this the other day.

What a difference!!

The truck flies now, I may have it turned a little too far as when my foot is fully planted it gives out a fair amount of the black stuff but I will just turn it back slightly at some point.

But to anyone who is reading this and haven't done it yet, if you follow the steps correctly and write down what you have done for referance it will change your truck into a new beast.

Has anybody made a gasket to seal the faces of the pump body to the cap, as I am having loads of problems with mine. I get her running sweet for a while, but every time I drive through any sort of water or mud my performance starts dropping off again. When I take the pump back apart the inside of it is always all rusted up and ****ty, causing the diaphragm to stick down. Clean it up and all is good again. Would putting a thin gasket on it help or could this throw all the pump settings out??

Sure it's not getting in through the pump breather?

Breather?? Where is that too?? Also, I have got it apart at the moment and noticed that the little pin which sits against the shaft (fuel pin??) is stuck and not moving. Should this move when the throttle cable is pulled in and out??

Breather is on the back of the pump, towards the top if I remember. It's a rubber cap with a bit sticking out

Ok, will check that out cheers. Any idea with the fuel pin?? Mine seems to be stuck all the way in from what I can see. There must be some rusty muddy ****e in there as well. Any idea how to get it to come back out??

Adam1979 said:

Ok, will check that out cheers. Any idea with the fuel pin?? Mine seems to be stuck all the way in from what I can see. There must be some rusty muddy ****e in there as well. Any idea how to get it to come back out??

Click to expand...

Read my post on page 43.
I can't emphasize enough about marking the possition of the throttle linkage before removing it, keeping in mind that the washer with the markings stamped on it (you'll know which one I mean when you take it apart) comes out, so there's no point on marking the spindle position on the washer.

Thanks Mark. I have blasted a load of WD40 on the pin which seems to have done the job for now. Think I will give it a few more days and spray a bit more in there just to make sure it is fully freed up.

Did this tweek to my genuine defender 200 other week. Turned the star wheel just short of 360 degrees, and turned the diafram to 1/2 O'clock position. Has made a huge differance!! Only black smokes if you plant your foot flat to the floor so normal driving it doesn't smoke any more than it used to. Turbo is boosting about 20psi odd so this fuel tweek has definetly helped even it up.

What I didn't touch is the smoke screw on the top of the pump should I bother doing this????

And I said else where on this forum, the boost pipe from my turbo is dumping a lot of oil into the top of the diafram?? It's not going down into the pump just sitting on the top of the rubber.
Any ideas? Just excess oil from turbo? Intercooler pipes seem oil free? Not play in the turbine shaft..

Where I used to get to a hill In 4th gear and change down to 3rd, I don't have to as much it just keeps plodding up, it seems to have the same effect as bolting a huge intercooler on but for no cost lol!!
I haven't noticed any difference in MPG yet,,

Can anyone tell me what the little nylon washer thing is for inside of the pump (the one that fits under the spring) as I have dropped mine and can not find it anywhere

Is it important

hi,
I've got an edc auto,
can I simply remove this pump and fit an earlier non edc one???
neil

It can be done and some on here have done it, normally when there are problems with the edc setup. Not sure exactly how much work is involved though.

The edc cars produce more power to start with though so if you revert to non-edc and the tweak the pump you may only end up back where to started. I've only ever driven an edc car so someone who has driven both may be able to confirm.

edc can be a real pain when it goes wrong but if it's working ok you may not gain as much as you think.

thanks for that,
just don't like the electrical plug on it, might be an issue when offroading if it gets wet,
suppose it's easier just to waterproof it and see how it goes,
hi-jack over, sorry,
cheers,
neil

Has any one gone for a mot arfter tuning up the pump I
Have turned up the turbo and the pump .
I get a bit of smoke when I start it up and when I boot it
Got to mot it soon !!! ( when I sort out all the rust tho haha )