SLS not raising car when button pushed, beeps 3 times

Hello all,

Just bought a Disco td5 2001 GS. Love it but wednesday when i test drove it pushed sls button and back end raised ok all good and left deposit. Bought it today, got home and push button but just get 3 beeps. All doors shut, engine running. I may just be a nugget and not doing something but thought i would ask as according to the manual it should work as it did a few days ago. All book says is that the 3 chimes mean door open or excess articulation. Could somebody explain how it works under normal driving and why it may not be working now. Much appreciated as i am a little worried it could be expensive!

When u say sls button you mean ORM switch dont u? ...
1. first of all check fiusible link FL 9 in engine bay
2. if u are familiar with electrics, u have RAVE and u are up to do some measurements just let me know

By the way after it was on ORM height did u push the switch again to resume to normal height or did u leave this way?.... cos if it didnt dive back to normal height above 20mph maybe there's the problem

Well i am an electrical engineer so no probs there, don't have rave. Have all books for my 300tdi but nothing for Td5 yet. Only got her today. I will measure anything! incidentally yes it is the Off road Mode switch. Going to try getting some weight in the back and see if it levels itself automatically when i get the kids to bed!

Did you press the right button? Hill decent control instead of the yellow one under it. Easy done.

Yes, the correct button was pushed.

Sierrafery, yes i did push button again and it returned to correct height also looks pretty level.

Ok then, download RAVE from here(nr.1) land rover rave technical system when u have it i'll point you to the right connectors where to measure... untill then u can check "in blind" the wiring to the compressor... remove relay R5 in the engine bay and make a "bidge" with a piece of wire instead of it's contact with ignition on pos. II...u have to hear the compressor working if the wiring is good...it will not inflate the bags cos the valves are closed....though i suspect a management issue here, or a faulty door switch / its wiring
..dont u hear a mislock sound when u lock the car with the fob?(a short horn)... cos if a door switch doesnt close well the SLS "thinks" a door is open and it will inhibit the functions.... open and shut hard all doors and taildoor then try again the ORM

As an electrical engineer when u'll understand how the SLS works it will be a piece of cake to trace a fault.... i'll help u at the beginning

I initially thought a door switch, hopefully as it worked the other day its nothing too serious. Tried slamming doors shut yesterday. Whats the best way to check the doors? would it be at the input to the control unit, where is the unit located? got Rave now. Doors seem to lock/unlock ok with no horn beeps.

When a switch is missbehaving u get misslock beep when u lock... so it must be something else... U find everything in RAVE.... Go to workshop manual - rear suspension - sls description and operation and find out how it works, there will be explanations about connectors with theyrs numbers... then in electric library - connector views click on the connectors number and u get a pic with location, pin disposals and wire colors - .... u have the complete diagram in electric circuit diagrams - self levelling and anti lock braking system(SLABS) ... u can trace all circuits seing the diagram, the connectors involved and the wire colours... your an engineer u'll figure it out now... i begun the same way... and i graduated avionics engineering

U'll find out that the SLABS ECU and BCU(both involved in SLS) are behind the glovebox and water ingress in that area is quite common

Looks like Monday will be a fault finding day! Any ideas where you would start. Will check fuses first and the compressor. Can i do any damage disconnecting battery neg and unplugging things to test ie. Will it lose any of it's height info etc and need setting up again or do i have freedom do disconnect with the battery neg off. I guess it should be ok, just read something about a backup battery and wondered.

i was out fishing...with some beers too ... as long as you disconnect the battery before you start measuring you'll be fine....just dont mess with the sensors under power .... start measuring the ORM circuit's continuity... from switch untill the ECU ...u have the diagram

All working again thanks. Checked compressor by bridging R5 which ran ok. Checked at slabs ecu plug to make sure no earth continuity with doors shut, all ok. Looked at height sensors and found a perished rubber on one side although still attached so ty wrapped to secure. whilst under there I gave the connectors a wiggle, put earth back on, started up and she pumped herself up. I'm suspecting a dodgy connection on the height sensor so will unplug tomorrow and clean them up. Many thanks for your help and the invaluable RAVE cd.

I'm, glad it's sorted.... just hever forget to disconnect battery(neg. lead) before you work on sensors...or buy yourself a nanocom which can calibrate them

On a different note, mine has 107,000 mls and no documentation to support the replacement of the timing chain tensioner. Should i have this work done? how big a job.

Mine has over 150K miles and it was never touched.... u can find the procedure in RAVE-workshop manual-engine-overhaul-timing chain and sprockets-(15) .... for any procedure u want just dig in RAVE cos you find there everything... there is chapter PDI and maintainance when u open rave see there for more info, afaik the timing chain doesnt have to be serviced untill 200k miles ...see the sheets for yourself

OK. Not sure if i'm paranoid but engine bay seems very hot after a short drive and top hose from rad is very hot o a point i can hardly touch it. Temp in truck is half way and steady but there is a burning smell in the engine bay. I know they do cry a little fluid which could explain the smell but the engine seems to be getting to hot. I know the private dealer i got it from put a water pump on it before i got it and i'm starting to wonder why! does your top hose get so hot you cannot hold it after a 15 min drive? Sorry to keep pestering you seem to know what your doing. Thanks.

what is RAVE? is it like hayes for people who know what they are taliking about?

toxictoes said:

what is RAVE? is it like hayes for people who know what they are taliking about?

Click to expand...

Pretty much yes !

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can someone be so kind as to tell me "how" to bridge sls relay i.e. , as you look down where the relay should be is it north+ east , or south+ west , if you can understand what i mean, as at the moment i have swapped relay's over as suggested checked fuse's , not removed sensor plugs and i can only get an earth at the pump main feed , I have not removed/dropped the compressor from it's hidy hole yet to direct live it , i've tried the ride height switch, bugger beeps at me then flashes yet nothing and it shows yellow. , i've looked and looked some more at the Q+A / problem section before asking is there any other fuses / relay's ???

FL9 in engine bay... but if you bridge the relay you'll eventually blow the bags...or the compressor if the valves are closed .... not a solution...searc in this forum cos there are ways to inflate them manually