slow/no auto box change

Hi everyone
I hope someone can help, I got a discovery 2 TD5 auto Y reg this weekend and all seemed ok, the test drive was good but then you never really drive as you would if it were your own on a test drive, I'm now finding my way round her, not too different from my last mk 1, however on driving a little more rapidly today she showed up a fault I think, if I drive hard the box only changes to 2/3 and carries on reving up to 4000 with little effect until I back off the throttle and it will then change up, it even labours between 3-4 driving gently, the box had a service in March with new oil, filter etc I know the book states that different driving affects the change up but it seems to labour for too long, if you keep your foot down it just doesn't change up and the engine plateaus at 4500? its also rained over night revealing another feature I wasn't aware of, that been the indoor swimming pool ( that will be the sun roofs then) hope someone can help and thanks in advance
Neil

Your explanation mirrors mine.. 2nd disco and the gear change is slow to say the least, and the leaking sunroof, though only a drip every now and then, mine is a 2002 with 70k on it, changed the oil and filter at 58k but no difference to sluggish gears, I ignore it now and just arrive a tad later!!

Re-sunroofs...

I bought new seals and it still leaked:mad2:. So i got on the roof with bathroom sealant and sealed both of them up and around the mounting plastic on the roof. This seems to work, will be doing them again before winter sets in.

I've just sealed mine up for over the winter I'll investigate come the springtime. Its more the auto box thats the worry.

Its been a long time since I worked on an autobox, but does the box have a filter in it? The Volvo autoboxes that I've worked on have filters that you change when you renew the fluid - they're accessible by dropping the gearbox sump. Not sure if its the same on your box? Just a thought - they can get clogged up and restrict fluid flow.

stall test it:

Stall test

Testing
1. Chock the wheels and fully apply the
handbrake.
2. Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature.
3. Apply the footbrake and select 'D'.
4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and note
the tachometer reading. The figures should be
as given below.
- V8: 2200 to 2400 rev/min
- Diesel: 2600 to 2800 rev/min
Do not carry out stall test for
longer than 10 seconds, and DO NOT repeat
until 30 minutes have elapsed.
5. A reading below 1300 rev/min indicates a
torque converter fault, ie stator free-wheel.
6. A reading between 1300 and 2200 rev/min (V8)
or between 1300 and 2600 rev/min (Diesel)
indicates reduced engine power.
7. A reading above 2400 rev/min (V8) or above
2800 rev/min (Diesel) indicates clutch slip.
NOTE: The figures quoted above were
measured at sea level with an ambient
temperature of 20 °C (68 °F). At higher altitudes
or higher ambient temperatures, these figures
will be reduced.

Thanks very much sierrafery I shall give that a try, sorry for not replying sooner, been tackling other issues like not starting, and seized low/high box, Ooh I do love Landy's.

yes there is a filter ArticFox that was "changed" at the service in February autobox filter kit £15.27 and 6ltrs of ATF £33.60.

thanks for the replies

Just a silly thing comes to mind. The mode switch is not in sports mode is it? That makes the box change up much later than it normally would.

No pushed all the buttons and they light and go out as they should thanks.