slight vibration/rumbling on td5 auto at 2000 revs ish /auto gear changing

Hi there, jist got my auto td5 es 2002 from dealer last week. everything works and generally no problems but need get couple niggling issues sorted out.Shock horror theses issues dont come under warranty which received for a 3 month period.Took dealer for a spin and he reckons autos all make funny noises etc. Likely story!!

1. When engine is taken up through the revs at approx 2200 rpm a low rumbling / vibration is noticeable.Its noticeable to myself but most other people probably wouldnt notice if they werent used to the disco.Test drove another auto prior to this one and dont remember hearing any strange noises or vibration.Doesnt matter if vehicle is stationary(in park or neatral) or driven through gears it appears only to be noticeable through the rev band in the 2000 to 2300 band. When the revs do die of just under a 1000 rpm again a low rumbling. Same as when the revs are taken from idle up thrugh 1000 rpm. Are these related problems. Could this be one of the pumps creating the vibration. Have taken the top plastic soundproofing covers of the top of the engine incase something was loose but no joy. Could be something vibrating somewhere completly different but its bugging the hell out of me Any ideas??? Does it sound serious / expensive???

2. Surprised how slow the gear change uptake is on the auto. Any ideas for getting the auto into 4th gear quicker as feel the drives around the 40 mph zones is stuck in 3rd gear when really it could do with being in fourh. Is there anything a garage or remap can do to alter the characteristic of gear changing.Feel the vehicle does a lot of reving before it changes up gears. I know the autos do generally run higher revs but feel fuel consumption must be lot higher than it would need to be . I have tried playing with the throttle when driving to jump it into 4th gear quicker but not particularily fun drivinglike that.Autos are suposed to be a relaxing ,lazy drive.


Thats the two main moans out of the way. Apart from these issues it s a good drive.Everything works and its got good spec Heard a lot of scary stories from the forum about towing the autos. As i tow a boat or caravan occasionally have i bought the wrongun to haul these lumps around the country. Thought the auto was sposed be good for towing???

i have the same issues with driving in third, mine wont go into 4th till 53mph and that is normal i am afraid. try capping the EGR, i am going to but the bottom hex bolt wont budge

hope you dont mind me asking this, but when you say it wont get into 4th quick enough?, it this with you starting off in "d"??, or is this with you going up thru the box from 1st to 3rd, if that makes sense!!!

Thanks for that. td5 a bloody good motor but shouldnt been so hasty for an auto. Should have stuck to what i know (the manual jobby). Only a week in with the auto and gettin annoyed. The vibration/groaning at 2000 revs ish is the main concern though. Have been fleeting through the forum and could be the torque converter/drive plate issue. As im new to the disco auto ive got worries it may be this as feel the engines revs its tits of before shifting up or is this again normal for the td5 autos. Is capping the EGR a simple job? What parts /tools does the average householder require?

Hey Caravan doctor.Must have crossed on responses there. Basically wether it is in drive or 1,2,3 then d . It still seems to take silly revs and an eternity to jump into fourth. Basically if it was a manual I wouldnt be driving in a forty zone in third gear. Probly still getting used to the disel auto but it always feels as though its reving its tits of for no reason and going nowwhere fast no matter what gear i expect it to be in.

I wouldnt worry bout thinking you're revving the hell out of the TD5, its the engine note/sound, meant to be like this. i tried 1,2,3,d and drive only, cant stop the engine going into final drive at 53mph. the EGR is a simple job if the bolts free easy, unlike mine. Apparenty increases MPG, and pick up. will let you know results. TRUST ME THE TD5 AUTO IS THE MUTTS DANGLYS, YOU WILL GET USED TO THINKING YOUR REVVING IT TO DEATH. SHE WILL KEEP REVVIN

thanks again for that info. Anybody got any ideas on the vibration issue. Is it possible the catylitic convertor could be causing a proble. Theres not a rattling as is normally heard from a crappy cat ,more of a low drone and slight vibration driving through the revs 1900 ish to 2300 ish as initially stated. Hevent had this problem in my previous manual gs td5. very hard to tell where the noise is being generated from as soon as you get your head under the bonnet all can hear is td5 tickover.

Td5's have no catalitic converter my friend

Ooooops stupid me!!! That wont be the problem then. One thing eliminated. Got her booked in for an inspection. Not at landrover i may add. they do like to charge the beer tokens a bit too much. Ex Landy boys set up thier own little garage so half the hourly rate. Thanks very much for the input. might still sell the beast and get the manual. see how it goes. Her indoors likes this one.

can you post your findings on this site, always good to find out

yeh no probs. Have learnt a few bits n bobs from my preious td5 gs manual so hopefully help others out 2. Happy motoring #> . If anyone else can help with the vibration/ rumbling issue would be mech appreciated.

Sounds like your ACE pump. Try kneeling next to open drivers door with engine running, reach under vehicle and place you hand on the ACE valve block...( Bolted to chassis with pipes going into it )..while reving engine slowly through the affected rev range. Can you hear / feel the vibration. dont forget to have vehicle in park with hand brake on. The shift points on the auto trans are pretty much set in stone by the ECU. You should be getting 4th at 38 to 40 mph and lock up ( large drop in revs ) at 52-54 mph on a normal to light throttle. these shift points will be later if more throttle or torque is applied. hope this helps.

I had this problem with mine, when it happened, i went straight back to LR and started complaining, (i'd only got it a week or so before), they had never heard about it, so after a 20min drive on various types of road with blokey from the garage dept, he worked out what it was, apparently it's something that isn't really required on right-hand drive models, but is on left, some sort of cover or something, (it was 4 years ago), the bolts can work slightly loose and cause the vibration, he went in garage, put car on lift, attacked with ratchet and the noise was gone.

Hello jez01. Thanks for your input also. I will try this out tomorow. Funnily enough I had leakage problems on same said valve block on my previous td5 manual.(Costly fix hense one of reasons got rid before it got to that stage) One of the things I checked for on this one before I bought it. I must admit there are no leaks and on heavy cornering the ace appears to work ok but your right it could be the pump in vbration. Will get back to this thread soon with an update after tried checkin it out. Ref the auto gears. I hope its somethin ile get used to but the gearing change are probably being exagurated with the vibration/noise issue which is basically p...ing me of . Just out of interest does a remap or chip have any effects on gear changes but as you say the chracteristics are probably set in stone.Is a recon / new ace pump expensive. Like evrything else that moves on a landy I would assume yes?

Hey Sharkey. Good input also. Will look into this over next couple days also. Same old deal. Got this one of the dealer couple weeks ago and got a good warranty. Lets see how good he is to his word if it is summit ace linked. Great to have the input guys. Much appreciated. Plus good that people out there to help one another.

Yup, let us know if you ever find out what is causing the vibration, I had this on an 04 plate TD5 auto, I always believed it was something to do with the torque converter not being balanced, although dealer wouldn't even acknowledge that there was any vibration / noise. I had a look through an inspection hole under that area, but couldn't see any cracks or damage to the drive plate. I must admit, it worried the hell out of me, and I slung it back at them within the 30 day period and bought a different one in the end. Best of Luck. (this vehicle didn't have ACE, so it wasn't that).

hi
Have driven auto td5.s for many years no problems with towing. I try to drive by the rev counter just keep it around 2000 rpm this way you can get 26mpg on local trips and 30mpg on motorway/ a road hauls
Mine did go through a period of eratic gear changing but this was easily cured by, gearbox oil and filter change. Allso at about the same time I had an injector give up which the engine management system was detecting and was changing down to compensate.
As for rumble the obvious is tyres, but after over half a million miles in discoverys i just turn the radio up.

Hi, I think you'll find the gear changes are normal for an auto. I bought my 2001 td5 manual 6 weeks ago but test drove 2 autos while I was looking and found them both the same - reving away in 3rd at 40mph - won't do the engine any harm but can be quite annoying if you do a lot of around town driving - also not good for fuel consumption (which is why the official average mpg for the auto is around 5/6 mpg less then the manual)

so unless you only do a lot of motorway cruising - I'd say the manual was a better bet - I know an auto is easier to drive around town but for a £400 saving on fuel a year I don't mind.

In 6 weeks mine has done 1500 miles and has returned an average of 34mpg on combination of urban and motorway driving & cruises lovely in 5th once I'm over 45 mph.

hi vibration on td5 try front crank shaft damper fly wheel if it the rubber is weak it causes vibration.

all td5 auto are like snails push it to the limit on the revs its likes it good luck

jcbdigger1970 said:

i have the same issues with driving in third, mine wont go into 4th till 53mph and that is normal i am afraid. try capping the EGR, i am going to but the bottom hex bolt wont budge

Click to expand...

Soak in Plus-Gas, then spend half an hour tap-tapping the head of the socket cap screw using a 4-ounce pin hammer. Once you've tapped it lightly a couple of thousand times it will come loose. It just takes a gentle touch and patience.

CharlesY