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Freelander 1 Skinny Mike's TD4 ES Auto

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Skinny Mike, Jun 14, 2017.

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  1. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    Hello everyone.
    Been a busy year in the Skinny household. Lots of working and lots of caravaning:)
    But I've also been beavering away on the Hippo and getting some work done, some paid for .
    So work I've had 'Elite Land Rover' carry out, paid for by eBay;)
    Rear shock absorbers replaced,
    Rear brakes rebuilt,
    Handbrake overhauled,
    A couple of bits of brake lines replaced. Because they'd welded themselves to the supports.
    The ride is massively improved, no more wobbling around and the car feels planted. The rear brakes/handbrake now work perfectly.

    Stuff I've been doing.
    Auto transmission fluid changed, again! The ATF that came out was cherry red, so it will now be standard maintenance on this. All the burnt fluid has gone thankfully, it's taken over a year to get this far but well worth the patience.
    Just a point on this, after getting the car perfectly level to carry out the above, the final stage was to check the fluid level with the drain plug. So a bit of fluid came out as expected, but as I was about to put the plug back in I used my finger to wipe the hole, low and behold a further 400ml of ATF came out. Dunno why, but I thought I'd better pour some back in but it came straight back out. So finger your hole gentlemen:D

    Sound deadening.
    Been wanting to do this for years, but I've finally got round to it.
    I used Skinz 3mm sheet and a panel coverage of 40-50%. It's a bit pain staking taking all the cards, covers, panels, seatbelts etc off but it's worth the effort.
    [​IMG]
    But here's the proof




    Hopefully you can tell the difference. I've done both doors, thankfully mines a 3 door, tailgate, rear panels and bonnet. I'm going to do the roof and use any spare bits up in the front footwells. If your using this stuff use gloves and a cloth to press it onto the panels, not you bare hands, mine were ripped to shreds within 5 minutes:(
    Driving is so much quieter now, I'd say the reduction is around 20% in road noise. It'll be more when I get chance to finish off.

    I've also done the standard oil and filter changes, cleaned it and polished it.

    Jobs to do.
    Finish the insulation.
    Replace front shocks, top mounts, swing arms and various bushes.
    Fix the wiper stalk, it doesn't work when pressed down for a courtesy wipe.
    Replace the radio with a DAB unit.
    And get some new tyres, I reckon I've got another 3-4k left in them. They will be replaced with General Tyre grabber GT.

    Think this brings things up to date. I'll use this thread to write up more when I get chance.

    Cheers
    Mike
     
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  2. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    And I need to replace the glow plugs, forgot that one:rolleyes:

    Mike
     
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  3. Sucram

    Sucram Active Member

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    Hi

    I'm looking at getting the fluid changed in our Freelander Td4's auto box changed, god know when it was last replaced, we have no issues with the box and gear changes are good, but at 140k I feel it needs replacing. Anyway I was just wondering what make of ATF you used?

    Cheers
     
  4. MollyNomad

    MollyNomad Well-Known Member

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    Hello Mike

    Nice work. Where did you get the material and what was th cost(other than the sore fingers and hands) for the Sound deadening project. TIA
     
  5. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    I use Carlube ATFU in mine. Others have reported that Ravenoil is good as well.
    Mike
     
  6. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    Cheers
    I got my stuff from Source sounds in Chapeltown Sheffield as it's close to me. But they have a web shop, this link will take you to the stuff I used, 3mm butyl
    https://www.sourcesounds.com/shop/sound-proofing/skinz-bulk-kit/
    Or you can use Amazon.
    Mike
     
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  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I used 3mm self adhesive neoprene sheet on and in my front doors and inside the door cards. It's made a huge difference. I can tell the rear is making lots of noise now. So rear doors and rear quarter panels are next in line for treatment. 20170619_102727.jpg 20170619_102731.jpg
     
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  8. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    Either of the options will make a big difference as there's virtually no sound proofing in a Freelander and the 3 door is worse than the 5.
    It's surprising how quiet it is once you put some deadening on.
    Mike
     
  9. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I thought I'd try self adhesive neoprene as it's cheap compared to dedicate sound deadening materials. I must say it's well worth the £35 a 5M X 1M roll costs.
    I remember my 3 door being quite noisy. But I don't think my 05 SE is much quieter tbh.
     
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  10. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    Quick update.
    Not had time to do much as I've been working on the house, fixing the chimney this weekend, the joys of owning a 137 year old house:oops:

    Anyways, quick pointer. If you take the rear panels out to do work like I did, put the rubber trim back properly. I went out to find a boot full of water, never done this before, so I was quite surprised, until I realized I'd put the rubber strip back out of line. Fortunately its all dried out, but I'll have to rip the carpets up to check for moisture. Don't want any rust in there.

    Keep your eye on the newspaper for pictures of me splattered on the drive when I fall off the roof:D

    Mike
     
  11. MollyNomad

    MollyNomad Well-Known Member

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    If you are concenerned about moisture you can get some disposable dehumidifiers from the cheaper stores around, or, if you are in the country, a plastic dish with some salt in it will work okay for a short time. It's a bit of a compromise between leaving the doors/windows open to dry stuff or shutting everything and letting the dehumidifiers do there thing.
     
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  12. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I've got a couple in there. I'm more concerned about moisture getting trapped under the carpet and affecting the metal floor. So I think I'll have to lift the carpet to be certain. Plus it'll stink if I don't get it completely dry:(
    But thanks for the input.
    Mike
     
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  13. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Terrible things brick chimneys - death traps. One decent quake and they come tumbling through the roof taking out every thing and every one in its path!

    You'll be telling me you've got a brick or stone house next. Nah, that'd be madness :)
     
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  14. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I know that one.
    My house was built in 1881 and always needs some kind of remedial work. :(
     
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  15. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    It's brick built, solid walls as well, no cavities. That's why I have to hide all the dead bodies in the cellar, no room in the walls;)
    Not many quakes round here. But I do remember the last tremor that could be felt. Late 80's and I was 'otherwise' engaged, but the young lady involved definitely felt the earth move, so I'm officially a love god:D.
    Mike
     
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  16. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Neoprene is a really good idea - will function as a good water shedder too I'd imagine? :)
     
  17. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    The chimney is on, and I'm not dead:)
    But that's the edited version.
    Nightmare, mortar had disintegrated, flue liner failed, bricks virtually falling out.
    Anyway, 8 hours of hard graft with a couple of mates and it's fixed. Downside is my legs ache so much after perching on ladders all day.
    Just a bit more pointing to sort out when I get chance.
    I'm so not young anymore:(
    Mike
     
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  18. Skinny Mike

    Skinny Mike Well-Known Member

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    *Boring post warning*

    Is it possible to get more mpg out of an auto without altering the engine?
    Well, as it turns out, yes.
    TD4 auto, synergy 2A, setting 2. Yes I know a synergy is altering the engine, but it'll probably work without one.
    Always thought that 1st gear in an auto is rather redundant unless your off road or towing.
    So, put the auto box into tiptronic, D then pull right and pull down, 1 shows on the display. Now before you set of push forward once so 2 is displayed. A Freelander will happily pull away in second gear unless your on a really steep incline, especially with a Synergy in the system. Then push up for 3rd and 4th at 1750rpm and 5th at 2100rpm. Let the gearbox change down the gears on its own, it will only do this when necessary. Also in tiptronic the box won't change down to 1st unless you make it, so it will always set off in 2nd.
    Tried this for a couple of tanks of diesel and averaged 3mpg extra over and above what I normally get. Not a great deal admittedly, but it's 36 miles per tank extra and gives me something to do on the boring drives, going to the supermarket etc.
    So now you know, told you it was a boring post, but now I've done this you don't have to.
    Still more fun in sports mode though:)
    Mike
     
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  19. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Nice! :)

    A classic case where more power (or more specifically more torque) = better economy because you don't have to thrash the engine so hard to make progress? :)
     
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  20. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've been driving my auto in Command Shift since the TC has been shuddering. It does improve MPG by a bit. Or it would if I didn't like to put hammer down regularly.
     
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