Sill replacement. And sliders

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RKServicing

Active Member
Posts
757
Location
bicester
Been a busy little basterd this morning! Started to poke some holes then just went for it. Been onit since half 9....

The front half of passenger side ent to bad.

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The back half not so great :O

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Opened it up anyways on the front

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Abit more chopping and messing resulted in this sliding straight in. Next up clean and weld, then weld on the sliders I have sat upstairs and get on with the other side!

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Looking good there. I just picked up 2 lenghts of that box section for 30 quid ready to do mine.Did you leave the inner sill in place or hack that off as well?
 
ive done mine and found it was easier to remove the inner lip.i would also recommned to remove the doors aswell. as less chance of the a and b posts moving.plus your not walkin around them all day. its diff worth changing the body mounts aswell,makes the job so much easier. when box is in place and put some new floor in place i puddle welded the floor so that the floor could be welded to box. dont forget to cap the ends of the box easier when off the car.

heres a couple pics still work in progress
 

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I've cut some of the inner sill away. About half way up it. It's still fairly good in there as far as attached metal. So haven't had issues with the pillars moving. It's taken me about 5 hours per side start to finish. Will post some more pics up when i get a min.
 
3 of the 4 body mounts are good. Just made the 4th passenger rear one.

Finished for the weekend. Got one side done bar Weldin the sliders on.

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread but the back of the box section the inner sill did you cut that to the top and not weld that just puddle weld through the floor? if so that's a lot easier to just weld the front and puddle the top and leave the back. Will that pass the mot? Also where you cut out the arches to get to the mounts did you have to patch that back up or can you leave that open?
 
Myself has I cut the innersill and outersill lip off,I welded a sheet from floor and puddle weld on top of box section.so much easier this way,and in the arches I welded the piece in and and also puddled that on to the end caps of the sills for extra strengh
 
I spent all day yesterday cursing at the old sill lip trying to get it clean to seam to. It was all up and down and would have taken ages. Knowing this ill rip it all out offer the box up puddle it through the floor and seam around the door pillars. Do you know the body mounts if you have no back lip can you weld those onto the box section and manage to get the mounts over the outriggers and in place?
 
I spent all day yesterday cursing at the old sill lip trying to get it clean to seam to. It was all up and down and would have taken ages. Knowing this ill rip it all out offer the box up puddle it through the floor and seam around the door pillars. Do you know the body mounts if you have no back lip can you weld those onto the box section and manage to get the mounts over the outriggers and in place?

I ask that because I have new body mounts to attach, the old ones are off.
 
Well the way I did was cut out all the lip and bottom of rear arch to gain access then I placed mounts onto riggers and bolted and offered up the box and get fully in place then I tack weld a couple of welds to make sure they in right place. This is were the fun starts I removed the bolts and rubbers and then with a bit of time and patients it came out. Now knowing it came out. I seamed the mounts up, then it was fitting it up. Only put small tacks on tho and if u can't get it back off. Weld it in place rubbers will be fine just do one side at a time on each mounts to let it cool down
 
Well the way I did was cut out all the lip and bottom of rear arch to gain access then I placed mounts onto riggers and bolted and offered up the box and get fully in place then I tack weld a couple of welds to make sure they in right place. This is were the fun starts I removed the bolts and rubbers and then with a bit of time and patients it came out. Now knowing it came out. I seamed the mounts up, then it was fitting it up. Only put small tacks on tho and if u can't get it back off. Weld it in place rubbers will be fine just do one side at a time on each mounts to let it cool down

Bit unclear on the wording can you just clarify. You bolted the mounts on so they were in place tacked to the bock and then removed the bolts and then lowered the box section off seamed the mounts to the box section and refitted or did you bolt the mounts on tack it to the box section in place then slowly seam around the body mounts whilst they were in place with rubbers on? I don't get why you unbolted the mounts when they were in place.
 
What I did was bolt the mounts to the riggers, then while they were inplace I offered up the box section. Then I tack weld them. so the box could be removed knowing that I could just seam weld them in place.like I said its very tight removing it and refitting the box with mounts in place.
If you find you can't remove it after tack weldin, then just weld it in place switchin between the mounts so giving time for each one to cool down in betwwen seam welding both.
 
What I did was bolt the mounts to the riggers, then while they were inplace I offered up the box section. Then I tack weld them. so the box could be removed knowing that I could just seam weld them in place.like I said its very tight removing it and refitting the box with mounts in place.
If you find you can't remove it after tack weldin, then just weld it in place switchin between the mounts so giving time for each one to cool down in betwwen seam welding both.
+1

I seamed mine in whilst still attached to the outriggers, at least that way i know they are where they are supposed to be, i reckon if i ever need to get the body off its gonna be a grinder job anyway so what the hell.
 
Ill probably tack them in place and see if I can get the box section out to seam weld it neatly. If not Its not the end of the world and ill do it whilst they are there as you said. Thanks for that advice.
 
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