siezed handbrake drum

hi all, I've done a few searches but can't find the answers I need relating to my siezed handbrake drum on 1985 landy 90. After the beast's last foray off road and through some deep muddy water, I didn't drive it for a few weeks and the handbrake has siezed on. It is still driveable with a bit more right foot but the drum is scorching after a couple of miles and also seems to be upsetting my double cardon front prop. How should I go about getting the drum off once I've removed the propshaft?

have you slackened off the rear adjuster ?

time for an x-brake ?

Slackened off the adjuster like Sean said , remove the retaining screw ( if u got one ) then you can do 2 things

1 - beat the drum with a copper hammer on oposite sides of the drum to work it off .

2 - look on the back of the back plate where the rod enters the drum , remove the rubber boot ( whats left of it prob ) and lube up the hole where the rod is and then beat it some more ( took a while to get mine off ) .

When its off you'll find that your expander has siezed solid - either buy a new one or strip out the old ( its held to the back plate by 2 pain in the ass clips that look like 2 forks that lock together ) .

clean everything up and reassemble .

.

Sean said:

time for an x-brake ?

Click to expand...

time to win the lottery then

Thanks for the replies so far. I already have an x-brake waiting in a box at home since before the snow started in December but being a bit of a fair weather fella (coupled with the fact that the beast is too tall to fit in my garage) I've not been feeling like getting under it recently.

If I undo the propshaft and disconnect the handbrake cable and undo all the nuts that are anywhere on the brake drum perhaps that will do the trick and I can just take a lump hammer and chisel to the drum and beat the cr4p out of it until it falls off. Doesn't matter how screwed the original assembly is as long as I can get it off as I imagine the x-brake kit replaces everything.

Looks like a relatively easy job to fit the x-brake - anyone had any trouble with this?

Cheers

Fitted the x-brake today. Took me about 4 hours because I had a real struggle to get the rear propshaft off and then had to batter the cr4p out of the drum with a lump hammer to get it to come off the brake shoes that were seized on.

Perhaps it's my 3 inch suspension lift that's causing me to have such unpleasant propshaft angles but it meant that I couldn't get my socket wrench onto half the bolts and there is no space to get a regular spanner on to them. I'm pretty sure I've seen a propshaft bolt removal tool for sale and now I understand why!

Having fitted and adjusted the brake it seems to be working OK. I do notice though that if you pull it while the vehicle is moving (as I did gently to see how effective the brake is) you get a bloody awful clonking noise and it jumps about - I'm not sure what would be causing that but it had started to happen when I drove a few miles with the drum brake seized on - so it's not just happening with the x-brake but obviously the power of the x-brake makes it much more noticeable than with the drum.

I wondered whether it might be upsetting my front propshaft somehow - thats got a double carden joint - or whether it's showing up a problem with the gearbox or transfer box. Any ideas anyone?

propshaft tool is great,i wouldnt be without it

Having fitted and adjusted the brake it seems to be working OK. I do notice though that if you pull it while the vehicle is moving DON'T DO THAT ON HARD SURFACES (as I did gently to see how effective the brake is) you get a bloody awful clonking noise and it jumps about - I'm not sure what would be causing that but it had started to happen when I drove a few miles with the drum brake seized on - so it's not just happening with the x-brake but obviously the power of the x-brake makes it much more noticeable than with the drum.

I wondered whether it might be upsetting my front propshaft somehow - thats got a double carden joint - or whether it's showing up a problem with the gearbox or transfer box. Any ideas anyone?[/quote]

Supposing that the diff is not locked what you will be doing is putting all driving force though the front prop only, very very dodgy thing to do on tarmac. Whenever I want to test my handbrake I put the nose up a bloody steep bank and see if it holds.