P38A Should I, Shouldn't I?

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davidsmith1307

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,333
Location
Hull
Test drove a P38A this afternoon and want some advice about how best to procede.
N-plate 2.5DT with a lot of miles. Clocks read 195k but the engine was replaced with a second hand unit in 2004.
5-6 seconds of cranking to start and a decent plume of smoke but the car has been standing for a while.
Manual box. Seemed to work as well as P38 manual boxes ever do.
EAS still installed but struggling to lift the car. How long does the reservoir take to fill from empty (car not run for 3 months).
The main problem (which didn't happen on my drive) is that the car cuts out when dippling the clutch. Only happens when changing down. Only happens when the engine is warm. Starts again straight away. Once it has happened it will happen 60% of the time until the car cools down.
Car was a bit sluggish but when we got back we found the MAP sensor vacuum pipe was disconnected.
No EGR. Never had one.
Plenty of paperwork with it and the owner has done a good load of proactive maintenance. His file of papers was the tidiest thing in the house.
I can easily go back for another quick look if people have specifics I should check.
What would you think is a reasonable price? He is asking £900.
 
I'd walk. If you're unlucky it could be 4 new airbags (£250?), a compressor (£300), a FIP (£800) and a lift pump (£150?), plus the time to fix it all. Of course, if you're lucky ... nah, forget it.
 
Your guess for the cutting out is the FIP or lift pump then?:eek:
That's the stuff I needed. I'm keen to get one and I don't mind putting some cash and time in but I'm not a complete masochist.
Thanks gents.;)
 
Exchanged a couple of texts with the seller. He had replaced the fuel pump about 18 months ago.
Used a Britpart one, so i think we may have a suspect there....
 
Remember VAT has to go on top.

Fuel worse case scenario
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pump-esr1111g-p-7733.html
https://www.dieseljones.co.uk/diese...lassic-bosch-diesel-fuel-pump-0460406994.html (think that's the right one. Wammers can confirm.)
Tools to fit will set you back about another £150 if you don't have them. Need a timing kit for starters.
Get decent spill pipe not the ****ty stuff from Island.
Probably best to fit a one way valve off eBay.
Probably want the rubber pipe that goes between tank and filler neck as it tends to rot and makes tank removal quicker (i.e. cut the old off)

EAS worse case
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/spring-fitting-full-isl003-p-5234.html
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-compressor-anr3731g-p-8124.html (although Kurt might have a cheaper one)
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/springs-dunlop-isl004-p-628.html
 
Thanks @Grrrrrr .
If we always looked at the worst case I wonder how many P38s would get bought.
I may try and get the owner to swap the in-tank pump and see if that cure it.
EAS - well I'll take some soapy water with me and make sure the compressor is running. Might even try and blag getting the pipe off to see what the compressor is putting out. Happy to do a big o-ring swap on valve block.
Don't want to rule this one out, but I'll take a lot of convincing following the input from you chaps.
Or a huge discount...
 
Drove it again. MAP sensor connected this time which meant that when it tried to kill me it did, at least, try to do it at decent speed.
Nothing beats the thrill of the engine cutting out with the complete loss of power steering and braking.
Nay, nay, and thrice nay.
 
Drove it again. MAP sensor connected this time which meant that when it tried to kill me it did, at least, try to do it at decent speed.
Nothing beats the thrill of the engine cutting out with the complete loss of power steering and braking.
Nay, nay, and thrice nay.

Quantity control servo problem would be my guess. Refurbed injection pump needed i would think. Diag would tell you.
 
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