The bother with your post Scott is that you have to ask how easy it is to change the head gasket. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking your enthusiasum to have a go. It is theoretically a straight forward job.
Drain the coolant, remove the auxilary belt so you can remove the timing belt, remove any items that are positioned over the engine block or over any items that also have to be accessed or removed, disconnect and secure the fuel inject system, disconnect the manifolds, untorque the head bolts in the correct sequence and lift the head off.
That is a very simplistic description on a generic engine. On some engines it is necesssary to remove the rocker cover and the cam shaft to access some of the head bolts.
Now the head is off the remains of the gasket can be cleaned away, making sure that nothing gets in the small gap between the piston and the cylinder wall. Next the head. The mating surface is now to be cleaned of gasket material making sure that no scratches are introduced. All carbon despoits are removed from the combustion cavities. Now with the head removed it is foolish to miss the opportunity to remove all the valves and clean any residue out of the ports. The valve oil seals should be replaced at this time. The mating surface now needs to be checked for flatness to ensure there is no warpage. Any distortion will ultimately lead to head gasket failure again. Any distortion should be removed by skimming the mating surface with a vertical milling machine. A professional should be entrusted with this. Now that the head is flat the valves can be put back into position. In doing so, each valve seating is ground into its mating seat in the head port using grinding compounds. This ensures a good compression when the engine is back together. One final test is now required. The head casting needs pressure testing to ensure it isn't cracked. Againg this is a professional job. Now with the head reassembled it can be fitted back to the block.
The new gasket is placed in position on the mating surface of the block. The head is positioned on top. Once positioned the head bolts are first checked that they haven't been over stressed, if so replace them. All bolts are fitted and screwed down finger tight. Then the torquing sequence can start. Each bolt is torqued to the correct initial torque figure, in the correct order, using a standard torque wrench. Then each bolt is tightened further using an angular torque wrench, again in sequence. Further angular torquing may then be required.
Now all the external components are refited, with new gaskets as required. The inlet and exhaust manifolds, the fuel injection system, the cam shaft, the rocker covers, the timing belt. Everything is re-assembled. Then the cooling system is flushed and then filled with coolant. The engine is test run and the cooling system bled. Finally the engine oil is changed.
If you've never done anything like this before then I recommend you find someone to help you who does know how and work with them. Bear in mind that you will need a range of tools, some specialist and ultimately expensive. Alternatively get it to a garage and pay them to do it. That way you have some insurance if it doesn't go right.
I have the greatest enthusiasum for individuals to better themselves and learn new skills and if you feel you can do this then go ahead, good luck and let us know how you get on. To answer your question though, it isn't an easy job if you've never done it before.
Good luck.
