Should I bin my07 RRS

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Drummyboy

New Member
Posts
17
Hi Guys

Looking for advice as sick and tired paying out for repair bills on my07 RRS. I have owned it for around 20 months and all work undertaken, servicing and mots have been done by the same Land Rover dealer. But yet I have an endless stream of problems. This is a list of some of the items that I have had to replace.

Oil filter housing
Transfer box
Compressors
Brake lines
Front arms
Front and rear brakes

In addition to this just 4 weeks ago I had a fault the parking sensors now replaced also anti roll bushes replaced. Now 2 days ago my oil light and park brake light have came on, I have topped up the oil (made no difference) and the park brake light is still flashing. Both of these faults started at the same time. I did noticed the the hand brake wouldn't disengage and hasn't worked since.

Should I cut my losses and get rid of it, I have spend in the region of £5000 on repairs, also I found that other things have went wrong on the car before I bought it I.e. battery and alternator.


Sorry for the long post but this now doing my head in. TIA
 
well you will soon have the stuff fixed. Your 5k in cost you won't get back, might as well finish things up and keep it for awhile. sell it and next one, you will have to money into it aswell
 
A Range Rover (regardless of flavour) isn't for everyone - they are notoriously unreliable, deep pockets are needed for most repairs and they will test anyone's patience.

Should you cut your losses?? Only you can answer that, many do get rid as they don't truly appreciate the costs involved in owning a Range Rover....this is something I always warn people of before they decide to purchase....a Range Rover is a lifestyle not a car...they will cost you, they will frustrate you and they will financially cripple you - but nothing puts a smile on your face more than a Range Rover.
 
Saint.V8 said:
A Range Rover (regardless of flavour) isn't for everyone - they are notoriously unreliable, deep pockets are needed for most repairs and they will test anyone's patience.

Should you cut your losses?? Only you can answer that, many do get rid as they don't truly appreciate the costs involved in owning a Range Rover....this is something I always warn people of before they decide to purchase....a Range Rover is a lifestyle not a car...they will cost you, they will frustrate you and they will financially cripple you - but nothing puts a smile on your face more than a Range Rover.
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That's true I suppose, I'll need walking sticks if this keeps up, just to add Land Rover themselves picked up the last bill, around £800...I might chance it and call them again
 
Drummyboy said:
That's true I suppose, I'll need walking sticks if this keeps up, just to add Land Rover themselves picked up the last bill, around £800...I might chance it and call them again
Click to expand...
Always worth a chance...

Would hate for you to have to part company with a vehicle you have obviously put time and money into - as Thor says, you'll never get that money back if you sell it.
 
The oil light generally means oil pressure, could be your oil pump has **** the bed.

But sounds more like an electronics issue. Be worth getting it on diagnostics, see what is being thrown up.
 
I would change the dealer seems not to be so good ..... But very good at emptying your bank balance ..... Good luck with it I'd stick with it if I had spent that much on it .
 
Drummyboy said:
Hi Guys

Looking for advice as sick and tired paying out for repair bills on my07 RRS. I have owned it for around 20 months and all work undertaken, servicing and mots have been done by the same Land Rover dealer. But yet I have an endless stream of problems. This is a list of some of the items that I have had to replace.

Oil filter housing
Transfer box
Compressors
Brake lines
Front arms
Front and rear brakes

In addition to this just 4 weeks ago I had a fault the parking sensors now replaced also anti roll bushes replaced. Now 2 days ago my oil light and park brake light have came on, I have topped up the oil (made no difference) and the park brake light is still flashing. Both of these faults started at the same time. I did noticed the the hand brake wouldn't disengage and hasn't worked since.

Should I cut my losses and get rid of it, I have spend in the region of £5000 on repairs, also I found that other things have went wrong on the car before I bought it I.e. battery and alternator.


Sorry for the long post but this now doing my head in. TIA
Click to expand...

When was the handbrake last serviced, we service them every time we do an engine service as they are a common fault but this stops them sticking and so ruining the modulator.

Brakes are wearing parts and so they just wear out, although main stealers are always keen to change the disks at the same time as pads and charge you the earth when you don't need to

Anti roll bar bushes and front wishbone bushes are also common faults to fail around 70k miles but sometimes sooner, they no doubt changed the arms instead of just the bushes again there is no point in doing this, any half decent mechanic can change bushes

The oil light may well be the sensor it would be the bear thing to try changing first before expensive oil pumps, but do it soon you don't wanna risk it actually being the pump

No idea why they had to change brake lines. I've never sen one with a brakes problem
 
With the handbrake it will probably be the module and the cables, if not adjusted correctly it can cause problems also if they seize on discs are generally changed due to the heat transfer from a seized handbrake there is also a procedure of setting them up and bedding inthe handbrake. The modules are a pain to change expect to see 4hrs labour minimum.

The brake lines get changed on the rear of these vehicles between the middle of the chassis to the rear union as water collects in the clips and corrode the pipes way to stop is remove from pipe and grease and refit.

As regards to the anti roll bar bushes if the vehicle has a arc bar the bushes are hard enough to change unless you got the big c bar spanners that landrover issue as with the rear bushes bolts tend to snap on these. I have seen the bushes go as low as 20k miles.

The lower arms get changed because the hydro bush thats the back bush gets weak and causes the arm to knock on the mounting under sharp braking and over bumps.

All the above are very common issues I see everyday at work.

Stick with it you have put to much money in it already.
 
matt1987 said:
With the handbrake it will probably be the module and the cables, if not adjusted correctly it can cause problems also if they seize on discs are generally changed due to the heat transfer from a seized handbrake there is also a procedure of setting them up and bedding inthe handbrake. The modules are a pain to change expect to see 4hrs labour minimum.

The brake lines get changed on the rear of these vehicles between the middle of the chassis to the rear union as water collects in the clips and corrode the pipes way to stop is remove from pipe and grease and refit.

As regards to the anti roll bar bushes if the vehicle has a arc bar the bushes are hard enough to change unless you got the big c bar spanners that landrover issue as with the rear bushes bolts tend to snap on these. I have seen the bushes go as low as 20k miles.

The lower arms get changed because the hydro bush thats the back bush gets weak and causes the arm to knock on the mounting under sharp braking and over bumps.

All the above are very common issues I see everyday at work.

Stick with it you have put to much money in it already.
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Why does your anti roll bar bushes wear out so fast????? Really amazes me as to how fast thing go to hell on UK Land rovers. And when I see them here I talk to the owners if they are having same problems and they same no. What gives????????????
 
I think its to do with the teflon coating on the bushes it wears off and causes knocking left to right you dont get play you get customers complaining of knocking when turning and it is always the front arc bar bushes the regular anti roll bar bushes are generally ok and last longer.

I also believe it is down to the massive articulation that these vehicles have and that can stress the bushes and cause them to wear out quickly.

Things are manufactured on the cheap and in bulk and the quality isnt what it used to be cars are produced to last around 10 to 15yrs and then scrap and get a new one.

Look at what parts are available on the p38 nowadays the oldest are 1994 and the youngest are 2002
 
matt1987 said:
I think its to do with the teflon coating on the bushes it wears off and causes knocking left to right you dont get play you get customers complaining of knocking when turning and it is always the front arc bar bushes the regular anti roll bar bushes are generally ok and last longer.

I also believe it is down to the massive articulation that these vehicles have and that can stress the bushes and cause them to wear out quickly.

Things are manufactured on the cheap and in bulk and the quality isnt what it used to be cars are produced to last around 10 to 15yrs and then scrap and get a new one.

Look at what parts are available on the p38 nowadays the oldest are 1994 and the youngest are 2002
Click to expand...

Point I am asking is why is the same problems not surfacing in the US as in britain? All V-8's no lpg. Different parts for US market..... don't think so
 
tridentbus said:
I would change the dealer seems not to be so good ..... But very good at emptying your bank balance ..... Good luck with it I'd stick with it if I had spent that much on it .
Click to expand...


Thanks for all the advice guys, it was really needed, it's going in tomorrow for a check up, but I will confronting the service dept. They are the main dealer for Glasgow that's why I'm so trusting in them. Answer to earlier post the mileage is just over 60,000 on the clock. Also I have been told that LR can be money pits but to have so much go wrong is shocking, this might be one for the papers.

Thanks again chaps....
 
Seen engines seize and blow at 30k on several of the vehicle, so with your problems of brakes suspension and handbrake its all wear and tear items as I see it you have to remember these are heavy vehicles and when thrown around things are going to be under huge amounts of stress. I can afford to run a sport or lm range rover its when things go wrong my pockets arent that deep!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
The thing with us spec vehicles is that putting in normal gas as you call it wont do harm its the lpg that can cause problems, ive never been stateside so I cant really comment apart from what ive seen and heard from others, is that you dont have roundabout your roads are better kept. We put salt down in winter that could cause problems I suppose. im not really sure why the us spec dont have as many problems maybe the people you spoke to where the lucky ones.
 
Thor1950 said:
Point I am asking is why is the same problems not surfacing in the US as in britain? All V-8's no lpg. Different parts for US market..... don't think so
Click to expand...

The ARB issues do crop up in the US. It is a well documented issue. It stems from the bush wearing off paint on the ARB which then ruins the bush causing problems. LR made a revised bush and paint for the ARB but it hasn't solved the issue just slowed down the symptoms. Using the vehicle in a dirty/salty environment makes the issue surface much faster, as you can imagine.
 
matt1987 said:
The thing with us spec vehicles is that putting in normal gas as you call it wont do harm its the lpg that can cause problems, ive never been stateside so I cant really comment apart from what ive seen and heard from others, is that you dont have roundabout your roads are better kept. We put salt down in winter that could cause problems I suppose. im not really sure why the us spec dont have as many problems maybe the people you spoke to where the lucky ones.
Click to expand...

I have talked to some damn old disco's with V8's and air suspension, Don't seem to be the HGF or air faults and also newer owners from 2-10 year old RR with from 25k-100k Miles and they love then.
We use some salt but most is 70% sand with salt added. Snow plows will run 24-7 when crap weather and we get about 6-10 ft snow a winter Mid November-till mid April. Lake Huron by me will get 4-5 ft thick ice on it;) and them crazy driver will go 20 miles out to go fishing.:eek::scratching_chin:
 
Thor1950 said:
I have talked to some damn old disco's with V8's and air suspension, Don't seem to be the HGF or air faults and also newer owners from 2-10 year old RR with from 25k-100k Miles and they love then.
We use some salt but most is 70% sand with salt added. Snow plows will run 24-7 when crap weather and we get about 6-10 ft snow a winter Mid November-till mid April. Lake Huron by me will get 4-5 ft thick ice on it;) and them crazy driver will go 20 miles out to go fishing.:eek::scratching_chin:
Click to expand...

HGF is most commonly caused by the water in the UK and coolant mix everyone uses here (50/50). Toyota had issues with HGF failures in the UK with the Hilux 2.4TD which they never had anywhere else in the world.

The air faults I put down to cheap ass owners not replacing parts when they are due. I saw a 95 P38 for sale which still had original airbags on it (according to seller). The owner saw this as a mark of it's reliability. I see it as a common problem in the UK, too many owners refuse to get vehicles serviced when they are due or parts replaced when a problem first develops, usually waiting for catastrophic failure first.
 
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