Shocks n springs.

Ok,
exhaust done so my next job will be shocks and springs.
Any recommends for a good set up for normal use and green laning?
Also any tips on doing this as i can remember doing this on a car and compressing springs gives me the heebs.
Cheers

Steve k

skanner30 said:

Ok,
exhaust done so my next job will be shocks and springs.
Any recommends for a good set up for normal use and green laning?
Also any tips on doing this as i can remember doing this on a car and compressing springs gives me the heebs.
Cheers

Steve k

Click to expand...

You won't need to compress the springs. Do a search plenty covering the subject

I'm a complete novice and did it reasonably easily. No need to compress front or rear springs... I didnt need to and that was with a set of 2 inch lift springs, although I did need a crow bar to help.

I put on a set of Terrafirma light load springs / shocks ... before the ride was terrible and it skipped about on the rear a lot... they did help and stopped the rear end from jumping around on my Defender 90 200tdi... although didnt improve the ride as much as I had hoped. However there was very little on my truck (i.e. no roof rack, rear seats, spare wheel etc) so possibly it needs a bit more weight to help.

Also handy to have a replacement set of turret rings!
Good guide for changing the springs and shocks that I used here:
Defender front and rear suspension refresh

jasflow said:

Also handy to have a replacement set of turret rings!

Click to expand...

Definitely get a set of turret rings if yours look dubious.

Wire brush all nuts and bolts a few days prior to doing the change, then cover them in penetrating fluid a few times.

On reassembly use plenty of copper grease too

Got pro comp gas shocks and bearmach heavy duty standard height springs,fitted my self did the rears first there easier to do ,then a few weekends later tackled the front,got heavy duty new turret rings and also fitted tubulat turret towers,made the process much easier because saved the grief of trying to seperate all the old towers and rings and shocks...once fitted although its a standard set up its probably sat 2" higher than with the old shocks and springs......

skanner30 said:

Ok,
exhaust done so my next job will be shocks and springs.
Any recommends for a good set up for normal use and green laning?
Also any tips on doing this as i can remember doing this on a car and compressing springs gives me the heebs.
Cheers

Steve k

Click to expand...

Might be some use to you

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/110-suspension-am-i-mad-234209.html

For me this job was easy in theory and a bugger in practice.

Four of the eight turret studs sheared off (so do get replacements before you start as said above).

I had to angle grind off the top front shock nuts and access to the bottom one is awkward esp when trying to grip the body of the shock with a chain wrench. Make sure you get out the rubber bush inside the top of the turret before refitting the new one. It can be hard to see.

Rear is easier but I used compressors on both which was no problem. I was using the road jack only and not too confident of standing on the axle. I did only needed a small amount of compression to release the springs though.

If I had a newer truck that came apart easier it would have helped.

Not complicated tho.

Standard springs, pro comp or terraform a dampers will give an improvement. Nothing wrong With standard shocks though

I put softer springs on my 110 hardtop (240lb - 1.75") and found the standard shocks couldn't cope really. Too bouncy.

Much better with De Carbons + anti roll bars, though you lose some articulation off road with the ARB.

I go along with 200tdi ayre,standard springs and gas shocks. Put some heavy duty springs on a few years ago and after a fortnight I had had enough and went back to standard before it drove me nuts!!

jasflow said:

Also handy to have a replacement set of turret rings!
Good guide for changing the springs and shocks that I used here:
Defender front and rear suspension refresh

Click to expand...

That's handy. Shows you can get the springs out without undoing the anti roll bars and radius arms, which should speed the job up a little. I shall be looking to replace the ageing Britpart dampers on mine with something a little more sophisticated soon (after next payday) so I'll post some pictures too.

Great lads,
cheers for the info.
Will get them next month and let u know what i got and how i got on.

Steve K

i got a set of Britpart shocks and 2" lift springs for my 110 county

The suspension is really good, but i wouldnt recommend a 2" lift

i run 275,70,16 tyres and in hindsight i didnt really need the lift

it looks like a monster truck now with 'air' visable between the axles and tub, it looks daft

im going to be looking at going back to a standard height kit asap !!!

the job is straightforward, you wont have any problems, you'll just need a big jack !

cheers
dave

Lol aye i noticed that about standard jacks!!
Fully up they just about touch the axle!! Useless.
Meant to ask that actually lol, whats the best jack for the job?
I did struggle abit eith me 2 bottle jacks doin the exhaust trying to get me gut in and out from underneath

cheers

steve k

Think I need to do this my self, was under the landy this morning, and lets just say my shocks are shocking on the rear.


20130908_110933 by Abhorsen The Final Death, on Flickr

think you need a bit more work than just new shockers

jamesmartin said:

think you need a bit more work than just new shockers

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hehe, i dont think its ever had any part of it replaced before i got it apart from he rear cross member. Its going to be a new chassis job at some point...

Love the look of that bracket too - its just a solid mass of rust. You can't even see the bolt heads any more.

Brown said:

Love the look of that bracket too - its just a solid mass of rust. You can't even see the bolt heads any more.

Click to expand...

What doe you mean bolts have heads...