shaunm41 & Archies ABS PROBLEM

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jonathanp

Active Member
Posts
183
Location
Barnard Castle, County Durham
Are you any further ? have you fixed it yet ?Just to let you know of another test you can try . I have spent many hours searching the Web for solutions to ABS problems . I too have Blink code alarms 2-12 ,2-14 , 3-2 , 3-7 ,4-14 ,5-14 which are mostly the front sensors like yours and possibly a modulator solenoid vale problem ? The extra test to try on the sensors is to rotate the wheel at approx 1 rev/second and measure the AC voltage at the sensor . It shoud give approx 0.93 Vac RMS . Depending where you get the info from the sensors resistance should be either 700 to 2000 Ohms or between 900 to 2000 Ohms . I intend to check my front sensors 'as found' for these values and then tap the sensor in again and rotate the wheel by hand and take a test drive and see what alarms come up in the next week or so . Also check for damp / corrosion at any/all connectors as this is also a common problem .If any sensors do not give a resistance in the above values and the voltage is way out I will replace that sensor. My fault is intermittant so it makes diagnosis a lot harder but you need a funtioning ABS to get through the MOT . Some people remove the warning lamp bulb , but this is an automatic failure if the bulb does not work or is not present in any car that has ABS fitted as standard or as an optional extra . Regards Jonathan
 
Hi Jonathan,

I spent 5 days messing around with my ABS problem.
I did a blink test and it came back with a 2-12 error, that is an air gap in front drivers side wheel, could be caused by worn wheel bearing. I did have some play in the wheel, up and down and side to side, so i didnt think it was the king pin so i replaced the bearing. Wheel doesnt move at all now. I removed and cleaned the sensor and gently tapped it back in, i then went for a drive at the ABS light went off within a few yards.
8 miles down the road it came on again.
My neighbour tested my sensor and it didnt read anything, so we tried passenger side and that sensor was fine so we new it wasnt his multimeter, so i think i make have damaged the sensor when replaciing it.
I had a proper diagnostic on it and it brought no error codes back but my mates mate who did the diagnistic cleared codes anyway. He said now that the codes were clear the ABS light should of gone off but it didn`t, so im now going to get a new sensor.
Cheapest place ive found is from a company called Beamends in Stoke on Trent (close to me luckily) They sell them for £62.00 including VAT..

Beamends 01782 551155

Archie
 
Hi Archie , I think I have damaged the wire on mine this afternoon so I have ordered one from LR Direct for £ 72 , wish I had seen your post earlier , never mind "only" £10 . I have tried a proper diagnostic using Testbook with my local LR Specialist but he could not communicate with the ECU , hence the use of Blink Codes . I have been told a worn retainer bearing for the CV joint could also cause the wheel to "oval " and kick the sensor out a bit . I hope it is just a dodgy sensor ??!!! Regards Jonathan
 
Hi Jonathan,

Well im going to get a new sensor then go from there, if that doesn`t cure it im going to get a new kinpin, with the new sensor bush and try that, there only £20 complete on ebay. Failing that, to tell you the truth i dont know what i will do.
Im determined to sort it out though because its bugging me.


Archie
 
Hi Archie , Same here , the only problem with ABS is that trial and elimination can be expensive . I think regular checking of Blink codes and if it is the same code it must point in the correct direction.Then if not sorted go back to basics and make sure I have eliminated any variables or other causes I might have missed , ie worn wiring , sticky relay ? bearings , loose connections etc . Regards Jonathan
 
I dont get any errors now, from a dignostic or the blink test but the lights still on and i know the sensor isnt working.
So i can`t do anything until i get a new sensor, but my brakes are working fine. Im in no rush for a sensor as my MOT doesnt expire until November.

Archie
 
Hi archie , strange you do not get any error codes when your warning light is still on ? For it to be on the ECU has seen a problem and registerred an error ( or there is another electrical fault ). I have checked the workshop manual and it says that when you switch the ignition on the warnig light goes on as a bulb check and the goes off for a half second if there are no errors stored and then stays on untill the car exceeds 5 mph and then goes out if no errors are registerred.I had this happen with my car today when I first started it but ever since there has been no half second light when the bulb goes off it just stays on all the time . This is expected as the ECU is registerring the faulty sensor which is now disconnected . I am now waiting for parts, and tomorrow I will check the blink codes and go for a drive out and check the codes again . My MOT is due in August so I have the time as well to sort it out I just have spent a lot of time and money on the car in the last12 months and now I want to prove its reliability !!! Regards Jonathan
 
DISCOBOY 84 Now with a computerised MOT , every testing station has a record of the failure and why and of course the Police have access to whether any vehicle has a valid MOT. Please find a cut and paste of section 3.4 of the MOT Testers Manual

Information

This ABS inspection applies to all systems fitted as 'standard', and to 'optional' systems fitted.
When testing vehicles that have ABS fitted the road wheels should not be allowed to rotate clear of the standing surface with the ignition on as this can cause the ABS system to indicate a fault which may require specialist equipment to rectify

Missing components

Where a vehicle is presented for test with an ABS component obviously missing but, follows the correct sequence of operation, the defect must be brought to the attention of the presenter.

Method of Inspection

If the vehicle is fitted with an anti-lock braking system, check that

a. a warning lamp is fitted
b. the lamp illuminates
c. the lamp follows the correct sequence of operation
d. does not indicate a fault.

Note: The sequence varies with the type of system. Refer to VSI, the manufacturers or other reliable data, eg purpose produced charts, books, etc.

Reasons for Rejection

1. The warning lamp
a. is missing
b. does not illuminate
c. does not follow the correct sequence
of operation
d. indicates an ABS fault.

Just because a lot of people are not aware of how you can fail an MOT as regards the ABS and just because some testers might not be as vigilant as others does not decry the importance of the test . I go to the most stringent tester I know because that way I know an experianced , qualified mechanic has throughly examined my car and I have the confidence that if it passes it is safe to drive on the road . My life and the lives of my wife and children are of considerable importance and for example in this instance a fully function ABS is a wonderfull aid to safety in all this bad weather we have been having. Regards Jonathan
 
Hi

Im going to try another blink test later on. Firstly though im going to check the fuses just incase theres a problem there, then i will re-try a blink test.
Because the ABS sensor is faulty it should give me an error other that the 2-12 error.

Will check later and let you know how i get on


Archie
 
Hi , Just checked my blink codes after a short journey with a few start / stops . Only one code 4-14 , front left sensor wire broken or resistance too high . This is as expected , do not know what caused the other codes so now waiting for new sensor and see how it goes from there . Regards Jonathan
 
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