Shaft Flange into transfer box

Well people I recently bought a 2001 freelander with all the expensive stuff done ie tranfer box shafts clutch flywheel etc. I have now noticed that there is an oil leak at the flange mounting on the transfer box where the drive shaft goes in. I was looking at it and suspect that it was not properly sealed with gasket seal or whatever as I can see the lack of it. Just wanting to know if its a difficult job to do or could I do it myself and does it mean draining the box? Also if there is anyone out there with a spare belt splash cover I would be interested in it as the **** that serviced the vehicle at some stage did not replace it and its now open to the elements which gives me the heebie geebies!

if its seal leaking you can change seal but if its housing unbolt pull it back and seal with silicone sealant after first making mating surface oil free

I thought it was the seal but had someone look at it today and he told me about the housing as there was no apparent oil spray which would indicate the seal. So if I unscrew the 4 nuts on the flange on the transfer box and slide it back, after cleaning use the sealant and tighten up again? Definately no draining required? Thanks for your help.

id drain oil and refill with fresh ,irds dont hold a lot and regulary changes do help

sorry to keep coming back at you but what quantity and where does it fill from?

IRD fills fron the rear. Takes about 1.1L of oil.



Drains from below:



Use a bottle with tube or simular to fill:


P6210990 3MYZW75

Oils from the rave disk:

Engine oil - Td4 engine
Use a 10W/40 or 15W/40 oil meeting both ACEA A3
and ACEA B3 specifications, and having a viscosity
band recommended for the temperature range of
your locality. Where oils to these Land Rover and
European specifications are not available, well
known brands of oils meeting API SH quality should
be used.

Engine oil - K1.8 engine
Use a 10W/40 oil meeting specification ACEA A2
and having a viscosity band recommended for the
temperature range of your locality. Alternatively, a
10W/40 engine oil meeting specification ACEA A1
can be used.

Engine oil - KV6 engine
Use a 10W/40 oil meeting specification ACEA A2
and having a viscosity band recommended for the
temperature range of your locality.

Gearbox oil
Use of gearbox oils other than those specified may
result in serious damage to the gearbox.

Manual Gearbox - PG1 and Getrag
Use Texaco MTF 94 oil or Burmah Oil MTF 1067 plus
OPEL B 0400063 for refill or topping-up.

Automatic Gearbox - JATCO
Use Texaco N402 fluid or equivalent for refill or
topping-up.
Note: You can top up your auto box oil. Just make sure you do it correctly. Instructions on this site if you search for it.

Intermediate Reduction Drive
Factory Fill: Texaco S5 75W90; Specification: API
GL5

Rear Differential
Factory Fill: Texaco Multigear 80W-90 ETL 7441;
Specification: API GL5

Gear linkage - Manual
Use grease Part No. AFU 1500 containing 3%
Molybdenum Disulphide.

General Greasing
Use Multipurpose Lithium Base Grease NLGI
consistency No. 2.

Bonnet latch
Lubricate cable and latch with oil.

Locks, Latches and Hinges
Use Door Lock and Latch Lubricant, Part No. CYL
100020.

Fixx

An excellent reply thanks so much . Well thats what I saw today ok but the nuts on the flange were so tight and I am still unsure about the oil leak being the flange not properly sealed right according to a mechanic friend of mine. I cannot get my head around the fact that this new transfer box that was fitted on 22/12/11 should have such a problem. I mean its a nice job fitting new stuff and well sealing such is just taking pride in the job. Anyway I decided to leave the belly pan off and my friend will sort the matter out on tuesday when I am off on holiday. Mean while I just carried on and took a power knotted wire brush to the rear hubs and then re painted them with a silk black heat resistant finnish in prep for the new alloys and tyres when I return from hols. One thing I can say about owning a landrover is that you nevr need a hobby the landrover is it !

Could be the drive shaft seal (pic below). Mines leaked before due to getting mud in it when going through water. Give the area a clean and make sure the ird has enough oil in it. Then wait for it to leak again.


P3271814 KTIOElZ

Thanks again its parked up now as I am off on holidays tomorrow and it goes to my friends garage on tuesday to have the matter sorted.

Job done the lad who done it said it required a larger seal as a previous job done left the flange with tracking. No leaks now just more jobs to do to it the usual FL problems.