Servicing td4

I am thinking of giving my td4 a service next week, am half decent with my diy skills, i service our old tractors on the farm so know around engine a little.
i have a few questions so here i go~

Is the td4 an easy engine to do oil and fuel filter change?
Do i need any specialist tools?
My car has done 42000k, it had done 29000k when i got it and had LR main dealer service then, it hasnt been serviced since so is it just the oil and fuel i need to do or is there any thing else?
I have read on here about the egr getting gunked up what will happen if i do the mod and blank this up, would it affect mpg for example and make any difference when it has a mot?
Sorry for all of the questions, I have searched on here but not found a quick guide for what needed to do a td4 service, list of parts and step by step guide sort of thing.
Any tips would be a great help.
Many thanks
Kind regards Jason

jason oil and filters on most cars are straight forward to do.first question can you see the filters? just take your time, oil out, filter off, drain plug back, in fill filter with new oil run oily finger over filter seal put on and fill up. air filter is just one out one in!stress dont no that motor got td5,oil filter bitch to do got wife to do it as could not get my hands in on it,but someone will reply with any probs if theer are any.

hi jas718 if you have worked on old tractors the you should be good for the td4.might be worth getting a haynes manual or alike. i personally find getting the under tray off the hardest part.youll need a36mm socket to get to the oil filter element. do change the crank case breather/strainer. check/change the air filter and pollen filter and the turbo vent filter.the fuel filter should be changed after 5 yrs or 60k.the rest is mainly checking the other fluid levels and brakes .... good luck tim

Yes the under tray is the worst part - not difficult but a bit time consuming, the oil filter is a paper cartridge that fits into the housing - the housing cover is removed with a large socket - check you have one or a suitable wrench to undo it its not that tight.

Worth also renewing the crankcase breather filter as well - have a search on here for the info.

36mm socket to undo the oil filter housing.

Also change the PCV/crankcase filter for the later type BMW Oil Seperator vortex/cyclone insert.

The allen bolts on the back of the air filter housing can be a bit of a pain as you can`t really see them. A lot easier with some of the very long T-handle allen keys and a little mirror.
Oil & filter are easy enough, but as already stated the undertray is a pain to remove, held on with so many bolts.
The under wheel arch fuel filter is awkward and time consuming but well worth changing.

Do as the manual says and cover your alternator with a cloth otherwise any oil dripping from the filter cartridge as you remove it will fall on to/into it and gum up the sliprings and brushes.
The crankcase breather replacement is BMW part no. 11 127 799 367, obtainable only from BMW dealers (M47 engine). Dont use the LR filter type separator as it gets blocked too easily and causes turbo filure.

Just done service this weekend

Fitted EGR bypass and new intercooler hoses
BMW upgrade crankcase breather oil seperator
Air Filter
Oil and Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter

As mentioned the undertray is almost the hardest part - fuel filter was the bitch

Oil filter - one of the easiest ever to do

Make sure you have the correct year and VIN number, because some differences do occur over the years.

Proper 5w-30w oil was damn expensive (and the spec on this changed in the course of the TD4)