service gearbox (auto)?

I´m thinking ´bout changing oil and filter(?) in my gearbox , it´s an auto from 1998 , don´t know if it´s been done before and , it has som milage on it.
advice about how to and what fluid to use ?
Wingren

Dexron IId or dexron III + filter every 24000 miles, easy job, just make sure you can loosen the filler plug before you undo the drain plug. You will need a pump of some sort to re-fill if you do not have a dipstick, follow the re-fill proceedure exactly or you will not get enough oil back in.

where do I readabout the refill procedure ? There is a dipstick is it adviceable to "suck" the oil out of there ? does it drain properly when doing that , do I have to undo the drain plug if I suck the oil via the dipstick ?

wingren said:

where do I readabout the refill procedure ? There is a dipstick is it adviceable to "suck" the oil out of there ? does it drain properly when doing that , do I have to undo the drain plug if I suck the oil via the dipstick ?

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You need to remove the sump to replace the oil filter so you might as well drain it via the drain plug. You re-fill via the dipstick

wingren said:

I´m thinking ´bout changing oil and filter(?) in my gearbox , it´s an auto from 1998 , don´t know if it´s been done before and , it has som milage on it.
advice about how to and what fluid to use ?
Wingren

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you will need a T27 Torx for the filter in the gearbox, make sure you remove the filler (or dipstick if you have one) before you remove the drain plug!!

Fluid: I use ATF Dextron 3 but you can use Dextron 2

I cleaned my sump and the magnet inside using my parts washer before refitting, and if you're doing this on your drive at home you need 3 arms and eyes to be able to get the sump back on. Easiest way is use a bottle jack to hold it in place while you fit the crappy little brackets back

JohnnyCrash said:

you will need a T27 Torx for the filter in the gearbox, make sure you remove the filler (or dipstick if you have one) before you remove the drain plug!!

Fluid: I use ATF Dextron 3 but you can use Dextron 2

I cleaned my sump and the magnet inside using my parts washer before refitting, and if you're doing this on your drive at home you need 3 arms and eyes to be able to get the sump back on. Easiest way is use a bottle jack to hold it in place while you fit the crappy little brackets back

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Crappy little brackets

Datatek said:

Crappy little brackets

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I'm looking at mine now, whilst the oil's draining and I think they mean the little metal slotted blocks on each corner of the sump pan that bolt up and clamp it up tight

Slightly above and to the left of the filler plug...

Or I´ll just find a garage that is qualified to do the job ,generally i don´t trust them , but i rather "blame" a garage than myself if something goes wrong , the main dealer in Malmö quoted some 400 gbp , for the job , I´m not really sure if they´re up to it , because they deal mostly with newer cars , and ferrari,maserati and other odd cars
I rather find a transmissionspecialist for the job , or I´ll try to find someone from slrk(swedish landrover club) to help me .

BOOMER said:

I'm looking at mine now, whilst the oil's draining and I think they mean the little metal slotted blocks on each corner of the sump pan that bolt up and clamp it up tight

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Yea them!!

wingren said:

I rather find a transmissionspecialist for the job

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You really don't need a specialist at all. ZF gearboxes are fitted to 1000's of cars. BMW, Land Rover, Porsche, Lotus, Mercedes, Ford, Saab, Jaguar, even Chevolet... you name it.

Any garage that has serviced an automatic car in the last year should have experience with them, the drain and refill procedure will be roughly the same for all of them. After all the gearboxes are roughly the same too!

Agree, that you don’t need to pay a specialist, plus it’s an easy job to do at home. I did mine again yesterday!

if you're so worried then why don't you just measure what comes out and put the same amount back in?
logic states that it worked before, will work afterwards.

JohnnyCrash said:

Agree, that you don’t need to pay a specialist, plus it’s an easy job to do at home. I did mine again yesterday!

if you're so worried then why don't you just measure what comes out and put the same amount back in?
logic states that it worked before, will work afterwards.

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Logic also states that if the oil was low to start with it will also be low after the refill
Just refill correctly and you know it's right.

datatek said:

logic also states that if the oil was low to start with it will also be low after the refill
Just refill correctly and you know it's right.

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:d:d

Did mine yesterday, easy job but a little messy, the brackets on the corners of the sump near the cross member are a bit of fiddle, I also undid the centre bolt on the cross member which makes it easier to remove the sump.

Follow the guide

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-auto-gearbox-filter-change-136345.html

From my experience: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts on the sump because they will break...
Also from me.. this was the least pleasant job I have ever done on my P38 but you may have an easier job that I did!

If you stick a bottle of Lucas Stop Slips/Leaks in your gearbox, it will reward you and be smooth as silk after a few hundred miles, unless it has major issues of course
Cadillac Lucas Oil Stop Slip Transmission Fix Gearbox Stop Leak | eBay